In the annals of early twentieth-century travel literature, few names shine as brightly as Freya Stark. Her book, “The Valley of the Assassins,” is a testament to the spirit of adventure and exploration that characterised her numerous journeys. Stark’s foray from the Iraqi border into Persia is not merely a physical traversal across daunting landscapes but also a poignant journey through diverse cultures and introspective revelations.
Stark’s perilous yet enlightening journey into Persia, as recounted in her seminal work navigates through the preparatory stages of her expedition, the cultural dynamics she encounters, her profound personal reflections, and the rugged beauty of the Persian landscape that she traverses.
Key Takeaways
- Geopolitical Context: Stark’s journey was influenced by the complex political environment of the 1930s Middle East, including British colonial interests and local tribal dynamics.
- Cultural Richness: Persia’s deep history in Zoroastrianism, Islam, poetry, and social customs provided a rich tapestry for Stark’s observations.
- Language Skills: Stark’s ability to speak multiple languages, including Arabic and Persian, facilitated deeper cultural interactions and understanding.
- Travel Challenges: As a Western woman traveling in the 1930s, Stark navigated both the physical and cultural landscapes, facing and overcoming significant challenges.
- Local Governance and Customs: Her interactions with various local figures, from tribal leaders to villagers, provide insights into the local governance and societal norms of the region.
- Environmental Setting: Stark’s descriptive writing vividly portrays the dramatic and challenging environments of the Middle East, from deserts to mountainous terrains.
- Personal and Ethical Reflections: Throughout her travels, Stark reflects on the implications of her presence as a foreigner and the ethical balance between exploration and cultural sensitivity.
Departure from Iraq
As Freya Stark set out for her expedition into the heart of Persia, the preparatory phase was fraught with a blend of anticipation and uncertainty, vividly captured in “The Valley of the Assassins.” At the forefront of this narrative is Shah Riza, a central figure and Stark’s travelling companion who, amidst conflicting advice, appears bewildered and philosophical. His presence is emblematic of the initial confusion and contemplation that often precedes any significant journey into the unknown. Riza’s demeanour reflects the internal tumult of an individual standing at the crossroads of a monumental decision.
The ‘advisors’ surrounding Riza are a motley crew, each contributing to the cacophony of guidance with their distinct personas. The Vali’s steward, characterised by his Rudolf Valentino looks, juxtaposes against the village headman’s shrewd and wrinkled visage. Mahmud, with his heavy sleepy eyes and the air of a regular Lur type, completes this council, each member embodying the diverse perspectives and uncertainties that accompany the onset of an adventure.
Central to their discussions is the emphasis on appropriate clothing, specifically the necessity of a Pahlevi hat and trousers. This sartorial advice underscores not just the importance of cultural respect and adaptation as one enters a foreign land, but gives an insight into the contemporary social upheavals underway in Persia as part of Reza Shah’s modernization process. For Stark and her companions, these items were more than mere fabric; they were symbols of their readiness to immerse and engage with Persian culture.
Yet, amidst this flurry of planning and anticipation, a sense of reluctance looms in the air. The ‘Philosopher’, another key figure in Stark’s narrative, displays a notable indecisiveness, torn between the lure of adventure and the ethical dilemmas it poses. His hesitation encapsulates the moral and existential considerations that are often inextricable from the pursuit of the unknown. This mixture of excitement, apprehension, and ethical contemplation sets the stage for Stark’s foray into Persia, a journey that promises as much introspection as it does exploration.
Night-time Camping
As the night descended on the eve of their departure, the group’s preparations and discussions took on a more introspective and urgent tone. The night activities that ensued were a mix of practical arrangements and philosophical debates, all under the shadow of the impending journey. Mahmud’s meticulous grooming and preparation, especially his careful loading of his gun, symbolise the readiness and alertness required for the road ahead. These nocturnal hours were not just a time for physical preparations but also for mental and spiritual fortitude, as the group geared up for the uncertainties of the journey into Persia.
Mahmud was busy with his toilet for the night. The most important part of this was the arrangement of his gun, which he loaded and then laid under a flap of his rug at the foot of a palm tree: another rug was put on top to serve him, for a pillow: he unwound his turban and wound it up again more tightly but less ornamentally than for the day: took a drink from the goatskin hanging on a tree, and lay down to sleep. Thieves were around after dates, which hung in moonlit clusters on the palm trees, and Mahmud would wake at the slightest noise and go prowling round.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
However, the night was not solely marked by human activity. A significant natural event, an eclipse, disturbed the night, casting a shadow both literal and metaphorical over the group. The disturbance caused among animals and humans alike served as a poignant reminder of the larger forces at play. Stark’s narrative captures the collective anxiety and awe such celestial events evoke, reflecting the deep connection and responsiveness humans have to the natural world. The eclipse served as a harbinger of the unknown, the uncontrollable elements of nature that the group would have to navigate and respect in their travels.
The night’s events, both human and celestial, set a contemplative backdrop for the journey ahead. The preparations, coupled with the natural phenomenon of the eclipse, underscored the dual themes of readiness and humility. As the group readied themselves in the lantern’s glow, the night before entering Persia was imbued with a sense of gravity and anticipation, a fitting prelude to the formidable adventure that lay before them.
Journey Commences
With the break of dawn, the expedition’s commencement was marked by a flurry of activity and a palpable sense of urgency. The narrative follows the group as they embark on their initial journey, including the crucial procurement of a smuggler and discussions about passports, something not yet essential for navigating the geopolitical and cultural landscapes that lay ahead in 1930s Iran. The departure signifies a definitive step into the unknown, a commitment to the adventure and the challenges it entails.
Shah Riza, central to this narrative, finds himself at the heart of a cultural and practical dilemma, encapsulated in the last-minute arrangements for his trousers. This seemingly mundane detail is elevated to a symbol of the larger journey, representing the necessary adaptations and preparations required for such an ambitious venture. The local community’s involvement and scepticism in Shah Riza’s costume adjustments highlight the interplay between the individual and the collective, the personal and the societal, that Stark’s journey navigates. It’s a vivid illustration of the cultural negotiations and personal transformations that travel necessitates.
Encounter with Border Customs & Entry into Persia
As Stark and her companions approached the Persian border, the narrative tension heightens with the anticipated encounter with customs officials. This section of the journey is crucial, symbolising the official transition from one land and culture into another. The group’s encounter with the customs official, described as a pleasant, elderly man, represents a moment of cultural and bureaucratic negotiation. The relatively smooth entry into Persian land, facilitated by the official’s amiable demeanour, contrasts with the potential for strict scrutiny or denial, highlighting the unpredictability of border crossings.
Malikshahi Tribe & Territory
The journey through the desert to the Malikshahi territory is charged with a sense of foreboding and awe. The Malekshahi are a Kurdish tribe found in the borderlands between Iran and Iraq, speaking Southern Kurdish. They mainly live in the provinces of Ilam in Iran, as well as Diyala, Wasit, and Baghdad in Iraq. Notably, they are the largest Kurdish tribe in the Ilam province, marking their significant presence in the region. Stark’s descriptive prowess comes to the fore as she narrates the group’s passage through the stark, unforgiving landscape. The hardships of desert travel are palpable, from the oppressive heat to the undulating, barren terrain. The entry into the Malikshahi territory, known for its hostile and deserted nature, further adds to the narrative’s tension. It is a landscape that commands respect and caution, embodying the physical and existential challenges of the journey.
This country belongs to the Malikshahi Lurs, who from their colder heights descend on it in winter, when there is a thin coat of pasture for their flocks. But n o w it was deserted: only the smuggler, walking swiftly by night, crossed its unfriendly paths. This encounter with customs and the subsequent entry into Persia is a significant phase in the journey. It encapsulates the challenges, both expected and unforeseen, that travellers face as they navigate unfamiliar territories. The successful crossing is a testament to the group’s preparedness and adaptability, qualities that are indispensable for the journey ahead. As they move deeper into Persia, the landscape and its inhabitants promise a continuation of the adventure, replete with new challenges and discoveries. The journey into the unknown continues, with each step forward a foray into new experiences and insights.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Arrival at Zardusht Tribe Settlement
Upon arrival at the Zardusht tribe settlement at Mansurabad, the narrative shifts from the arduous journey through the desert to a moment of relative stability and hospitality. This section of Stark’s travel is marked by the transition from the hostile desert environment to the more welcoming settlement of the Zardusht tribe. The settlement and night rest at Mansurabad provide the group with much-needed respite from the rigours of travel. The preparations for the night, amid the continuation of the dust storm, depict a scene of communal effort and adaptation to the harsh desert conditions.
The Zardusht tribe’s hospitality is a focal point of Stark’s writing. The account of her experience with the local hospitality includes Shah Riza’s contemplation and the arrangement of the sleeping area. It underscores the significance of human connection and cultural exchange in her journey. The interaction with the tribe offers a glimpse into their customs, lifestyle, and the warmth with which they receive travellers. This hospitality is not merely a comfort but also an integral part of understanding and appreciating the cultural landscape of Persia.
When I had undressed and washed, and had tried, to their rather fearful delight, the effect of cold cream on the faces of two gay young brides, I was left in solitude and darkness, while the dust swished in showers through the dry leaves of the roof above my head. The slight mud wall, here in the waste of open spaces, turned into the very emblem of solidity; no comfortable safety of London houses, with shuttered curtained windows and draught-proof doors, has ever seemed to me so sheltering as those six feet of upright earth buffeted by the Arabian wind. Not the thing itself, but the sense of other and contrary things, makes reality.
Freya Stark : The Valley Of The Assassins
The arrival at the Zardusht tribe settlement signifies a moment of convergence between the travellers and the local community. It is a point in the journey where narratives intertwine, cultures interact, and mutual understanding is fostered. The tribe’s hospitality provides more than just physical shelter; it offers a space for reflection, cultural immersion, and a deeper connection with the land and its people. As the group rests and recuperates, they prepare for the next leg of their journey, carrying with them the experiences and lessons learned from their time with the Zardusht tribe.
Desert Journey & the Law of Hospitality
The journey through the desert, as depicted in Stark’s narrative, is not merely a physical traversal of a challenging landscape but also a profound encounter with the elements and the self. The desert travel is characterised by a detailed account of the arid terrain, the group’s interaction with the environment, and contemplation of the universe’s vastness. Stark’s evocative descriptions bring to life the harsh beauty of the desert, its daunting expanse, and the resilience it demands from those who dare to traverse it.
Amidst the unforgiving desert, a minor accident involving the Philosopher’s mare adds a moment of disturbance and contemplation. The incident serves as a stark reminder of the unpredictability and dangers inherent in such journeys. It symbolises the perpetual negotiation between human ambition and the whims of nature, a recurrent theme in travel narratives. The Philosopher’s perturbation reflects the emotional and psychological impact of the journey, highlighting the internal transformations that accompany the physical ones.
As the group progresses towards the imposing Great Mountain, the narrative reaches a climactic point. The mountain, with its rugged beauty and isolation, stands as a symbol of the ultimate challenge and mystery that the journey embodies. The encounter with the Great Mountain is not just a geographical milestone but also a metaphorical one, marking the culmination of a journey that has been as much about external discovery as internal exploration.
As we conclude this exploration of Freya Stark’s journey into Persia, we are left with a deeper appreciation of the challenges and rewards of such an ambitious venture. Stark’s narratives continue to inspire contemporary readers, serving as a beacon for those who seek to understand different cultures, embrace adventure, and embark on their own journeys of personal growth and discovery. Her journey, with all its trials and triumphs, remains a compelling testament to the richness of the human experience and the unending quest for a deeper connection with the world.
FAQS
Q1: What is the primary focus of the essay on Freya Stark’s “The Valley of the Assassins”?
- The essay focuses on Stark’s journey into Persia, highlighting the themes of adventure, cultural encounters, personal evolution, and the challenges she faced while navigating the geopolitical and cultural landscapes of the Middle East in the 1930s.
Q2: Who was Freya Stark, and why is she significant?
- Freya Stark was a British-Italian explorer and travel writer known for her pioneering journeys in the Middle East during the early 20th century. She is significant for her vivid travel writings that provide insightful cultural observations and for being one of the first Western women to travel through many regions of the Middle East.
Q3: What insights does the essay provide about the border crossing into Persia?
- The essay discusses the historical and geopolitical context of Stark’s journey, her interactions with customs officials, the cultural and religious significance of the region, and the challenges she faced as a traveller during that period.
Q4: How does Freya Stark’s linguistic ability impact her journey?
- Stark’s linguistic skills in Arabic, Persian, and several European languages significantly enhanced her ability to communicate, understand local customs and narratives, and forge connections with the people she met, enriching her travel experience and cultural immersion.
Q5: What are some of the challenges Stark faced during her travels?
- Stark navigated challenges related to the harsh desert environment, cultural barriers as a Western woman in the Middle East, navigating local political dynamics, and maintaining ethical travel practices.
Q6: How does the essay address Stark’s reflections and ethical considerations?
- The essay highlights Stark’s personal reflections on the impact of her travels, her awareness of being a foreigner in the regions she explored, and her contemplations on the ethical balance between exploration and respecting local cultures and traditions.
Q7: What makes Stark’s journey in “The Valley of the Assassins” relevant to contemporary readers?
- Stark’s journey is relevant for its rich cultural insights, the portrayal of a strong, independent woman navigating complex environments, and the timeless themes of adventure, understanding, and personal growth that continue to inspire and resonate with readers today.