In her seminal work “The Valley of the Assassins,” Freya Stark provides an evocative and insightful account of her travels through the tribal regions of Western Iran. Her narrative contains an exploration of nomadic hospitality, deeply rooted in the axioms and traditions of the lands she traverses. Stark notes the precariousness of arriving at a nomad’s tent in absence of the tribal leader, highlighting the unwritten but universally understood rule that a stranger is an enemy until they step into the sanctuary of someone’s home. This initial suspicion, however, is quickly replaced by a duty of care and protection once the guest is accepted, encapsulating the complex dynamics of trust and responsibility that characterise these societies.
Key Takeaways
- Nomadic Hospitality: Tribal hospitality in Western Iran is rooted in the principle that a stranger is considered an enemy until they enter a host’s tent, highlighting the importance of trust and responsibility in these societies.
- Universal Psychology: Freya Stark identifies parallels between her experiences in tribal Iran and the reception of strangers in an English county neighbourhood, showcasing the common human psychology of suspicion and gradual acceptance of outsiders.
- Guest Rights and Safety: Once accepted as a guest in a tribal tent, the host becomes responsible for the guest’s safety and social acceptability within the tribe, emphasizing the deep moral obligations associated with hospitality customs.
- Cultural Observations: Stark’s narrative provides rich insights into the daily life, rituals, and social dynamics of the tribes she encounters, highlighting the communal nature of tribal societies.
- Complexity of Travel: Travel in tribal areas is more than just physical movement; it involves navigating intricate social, cultural, and geographical elements. Host protection is essential in regions where danger and lawlessness are common.
- Cultural Variability: Stark notes that the rules of hospitality may not apply uniformly, with exceptions in wilder regions like Lakistan, highlighting the complexity and variability of tribal territories.
- Interconnectedness of Time and Activity: Stark’s observations reveal that time in tribal society is influenced by social interactions, communal responsibilities, and the natural environment, emphasizing the collective approach to decision-making.
- Cultural Significance of Landscapes: The physical landscapes Stark describes are integral to understanding the cultural and historical tapestry of the region, with landmarks like shrines and architectural remnants connecting the present with the past.
The parallels Stark draws between her experiences in the tribal territories and the reception of strangers in a county neighbourhood in England are particularly striking. Despite the vast geographical and cultural distances, she identifies a common thread in the human psychology of suspicion and gradual acceptance of outsiders. This universality speaks to the shared traits of hospitality and community across different societies.
The laws of hospitality are based on the axiom that a stranger is an enemy until he has entered the sanctuary of somebody’s tent: after that, his host is responsible, not only for his safety, but for his general acceptability with the tribe. He is treated at first with suspicion, and gradually with friendliness as he explains himself—-very much as if he were trying to enter a county neighbourhood in England, for the undeveloped mind is much the same in Lincolnshire or Luristan.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
As Stark ventures deeper into the tribal territories, she becomes a living testament to the sanctity of guest rights, safe under the protection of her hosts in every district except the wilder regions of Lakistan. Her narrative is not only a personal account of her travels but also a broader commentary on the necessity of such hospitality codes in making travel and cultural exchange possible in areas fraught with danger and uncertainty. Stark’s observations lay the foundation for a rich and nuanced exploration of tribal hospitality, setting the stage for the fascinating encounters and experiences that follow in her journey through the mysterious and captivating landscapes of Iran.
Approaching the Tribe
Stark’s narrative unfolds to reveal more about the tribal dynamics and her gradual integration into the community. Stark’s young accomplice, Hasan, provided her with two letters of introduction to his uncle and cousin, yet both were out for the day, leaving her in the company of the fiancé of the proposed host’s daughter, who took upon himself the leadership in the hosts’ absence. This young man’s initial coolness and swaggering attitude towards Stark and her philosopher companion is emblematic of the tribe’s initial wariness of strangers.
The Significance Of Funerals
The absence of the hosts due to a funeral is a significant cultural event that Stark observes. In tribal society, funerals are major communal events, drawing away even the most important figures of the tribe and leaving behind a skeleton crew of sorts. Despite this, the tribe’s inherent hospitality does not waver, and although the more prominent members are absent, the remaining members gather around, curious about the stranger in their midst. The women, usually secluded, join in the general curiosity, showcasing the significant disruption Stark’s arrival causes in the day-to-day life of the tribe.
In this period of waiting and observation, Stark and her companion are left under the care of the fiancé and other members of the tribe. The reception she receives is a mix of curiosity and caution, reflecting the complex balance between the tribal laws of hospitality and the inherent suspicion towards outsiders. This situation, while slightly uncomfortable for Stark, provides her with a rich opportunity to observe the daily life and structure of the tribe. She notes the way the young generation, represented by the fiancé, seems to hold different manners compared to the older members, hinting at changing times and attitudes even within these traditional societies.
Developing Warm Relations
As Freya Stark delves further into her experience with the tribe, she begins to observe and engage more deeply with the people around her. A significant aspect of her stay is the evolving treatment she receives, which shifts from initial suspicion to a gradual friendliness. She is given the opportunity to explain herself, reminiscent of the delicate social negotiations one might find in an English county neighbourhood. Stark’s ability to draw such parallels not only bridges the cultural gap for her readers but also emphasises the universality of human interaction.
Iranian Tribal Hospitality
The tribal laws of hospitality, as observed by Stark, are stringent and form a critical framework for the safety and acceptability of guests. She notes that once a guest is accepted into the sanctuary of a tent, the host assumes responsibility for the guest’s safety and social acceptability within the tribe. Stark’s personal safety and the tribe’s honour are intertwined, showcasing the deep moral obligations embedded in their hospitality customs. This mutual responsibility facilitates her travel through the tribal country, highlighting the critical role of hospitality in enabling movement and exchange in regions fraught with potential hostility.
From the very first, however, once he is a guest, he is safe, in every district I have ever been in except the wilder regions of Lakistan. This is the only arrangement which makes travel possible in a tribal country: but it makes the adoption of a guest a responsibility, and the master of the house or some influential representative is alone willing to undertake it.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Stark’s narrative also touches on the uniqueness of her experience in each district, with a special note on the wilder regions of Lakistan, where the usual rules of hospitality do not always apply. This exception underscores the variability and complexity of tribal territories and the importance of understanding local customs and nuances.
Daily Tribal Life in Iran
In her insightful journey, Freya Stark’s narrative takes a turn as she describes a day in the life of the tribe, focusing on the rhythms and rituals that define their existence. The beginning of the day is marked by a slow awakening, where the simple act of pouring loose tobacco into paper tubes for cigarettes becomes a meditative activity for her philosopher companion. This moment captures the essence of tribal life, where time seems to stretch and bend in the quiet morning hours.
Stark’s descriptions of these interactions are filled with careful observations of the people around her. From the jaunty young man with his wavy moustache to the lady of the tent with her sceptical demeanour, each character is vividly brought to life through her words. The detailed portrayal of these individuals not only adds depth to the narrative but also reflects the diversity of personalities and roles within the tribe.
The lady of the tent, still young but with a middle-aged, disillusioned manner, sat smoking a short clay pipe, and looked sceptically at the ground. She had a nose tilted prettily under her turban, and a smile that gave a charming gaiety to her sulky little face. She presendy undid a corner of her headdress and produced tea, tied up there in a knot: she handed it to the household with one hand while she held her pipe in the other and began a Kurdish oration, telling Shah Riza, as far as I could gather, that we were only on sufferance till the master returned.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Throughout the day, Stark’s experiences are a testament to the resilience and adaptability of the tribe, as well as the deep-seated traditions that guide their lives. From the leisurely preparation of tea to the communal involvement in a funeral, every aspect of the day reflects the interconnectedness of the tribe and the land they inhabit.
Preparing for the Journey Ahead
During this time, Stark also learns about the complexities of travel in the region. She discusses the risks and logistics of her intended journey with the tribal members, who share their knowledge of routes, banditry, and smuggling. The discussions reveal the intricate knowledge the tribes have of their lands and the practical considerations that dictate travel and trade in these areas.
There would be no difficulty for Lakistan, they said: men with relatives on the other side could take us, and knew h o w to find out the day before where the bandits might be, and how to avoid them. It was constantly being done. A l l the routes are used by smugglers. Did Shah Riza think I could be induced to smuggle across some opium when I returned to Iraq? I could not do that, said I decidedly: Shah Riza had already made use of my saddle-bag to get through twelve boxes of matches and innumerable packets of cigarette paper without my knowing it.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
As the journey begins, Stark’s narrative takes on a tone of adventure and anticipation. The description of the tribe’s reaction to her departure, with the young man’s off-hand manner and the growing friendliness of the tribe, sets the stage for the next phase of her travels. Her account continues to be a rich tapestry of cultural insights, personal reflections, and vivid storytelling, drawing the reader deeper into her journey through the Luristan province.
Stark’s observations highlight the importance of familial and social connections in navigating the tribal territories. The letters of introduction are not just formalities but vital links that ensure her safety and acceptance among the people she encounters. The absence of her intended hosts and the reception by the fiancé demonstrate the communal approach to hospitality and the collective responsibility towards guests.
The preparation for her journey is a slow and deliberate process, reflecting the tribe’s pace of life and the importance of thorough planning. Stark’s description of the morning routine, with the tribe’s men leisurely filling their cigarettes and chatting, juxtaposed with the urgency of her travel plans, captures the cultural differences in attitudes towards time and activity.
Challenges of Traversing Tribal Territories in Iran
The concept of travel in the tribal areas is not merely a physical movement from one place to another but a complex negotiation of social, cultural, and geographical elements. Stark outlines the unique arrangement that makes travel possible in such a region: the acceptance and protection offered by a host. This protection is not a simple courtesy but a crucial necessity in areas fraught with danger and lawlessness, especially in the more untamed regions like Lakistan, where the usual rules of hospitality and safety may not apply. The distinction she makes about this region highlights the variability of tribal territories and the importance of understanding and adapting to local customs and norms.
The responsibility of the host extends beyond providing shelter and food; it encompasses ensuring the guest’s safety and social acceptability within the tribe. This deep-rooted system of hospitality reflects the complex social structures and the high stakes involved in hosting a guest. The host essentially vouches for the guest, integrating them into the community’s social fabric and providing a shield against potential threats. Stark’s experiences illustrate the delicate balance of trust, respect, and obligation that characterises these interactions.
The delay in the journey’s start, while initially frustrating to Stark, provides a deeper insight into the tribe’s values and priorities. Time in the tribal society is not just a chronological measure but a fluid concept, shaped by social interactions, communal responsibilities, and the rhythms of nature. The preparation phase, with its delays and discussions, reflects the tribe’s collective approach to decision-making and their deep-seated caution and hospitality.
As the journey finally begins, Stark enters a world of adventure and uncertainty. The narrative shifts from the observational to the experiential, with Stark now actively engaging with the land and its challenges. The transition from the preparatory phase to the actual journey signifies a shift in her role from an observer to a participant, immersing herself deeper into the tribal world.
Journey Through the Mountains Of Western Iran Resumes
In “The Valley of the Assassins,” Freya Stark’s narrative brings us to a particularly evocative segment of her journey, aptly titled “The Defile of the Unbelievers.” This part of her travel diary is distinguished by its descriptive richness, capturing both the breath-taking natural scenery and the profound cultural experiences she encounters.
We now rode, in pleasant and restored tranquillity, by the pomegranate and apricot trees of the hollow, until we left the garden of the tribe and came again to rough pasture between red sides of hills.
As Stark travels through the pomegranate and apricot trees of the hollow, leaving the more familiar grounds of the tribe, she enters into a landscape that is at once majestic and daunting. The physical journey through the defile is interspersed with moments of historical and cultural significance. Stark’s route takes her past the noble barricade of Kebir Kuh and along the uncompromising red walls of the valley, her narrative painting a vivid picture of the region’s rugged beauty.
The natural landscapes Stark describes are not just backdrops to her journey; they are integral to understanding the cultural and historical tapestry of the region. Her encounter with the shrine of a saint from Medina, buried under a white plastered obelisk, is a moment where time seems to stand still, connecting the present with the deep past. This shrine, surrounded by indistinct remains of old buildings and Moslem gravestones, is imbued with a sense of timelessness and mystery, reflecting the rich layers of history and spirituality that pervade the region.
Stark’s journey through the defile is also a journey through history. Each step takes her deeper into a land where the present is inextricably linked with the past. Her keen observations of the landscape, the architectural remnants, and the religious sites she encounters are not just casual notes but a deep dive into the soul of the region.
we were not attending to this part of the adventure, and rode straight on until we left the Musi lands and came into the boundaries of a small tribe of Arab origin, w h o take the name and guard the shrine of one of the saints from Medina, a certain Jaber, buried in this valley under a white plastered obelisk. Indistinct remains of old buildings and Moslem gravestones surrounded the obelisk in its lonely place.
Freya Stark : The valley of the Assassins
In this part of her narrative, Stark not only takes us on a journey through a physical landscape but also on a journey through time, culture, and the human spirit. Her vivid descriptions and insightful reflections make not only “The Valley of the Assassins” but indeed her wider body of literature a compelling read, offering readers a window into a world that is both remote and intimately familiar in its shared humanity.
Q: What is tribal hospitality in Western Iran, as discussed in the essay?
A: Tribal hospitality in Western Iran is rooted in traditions where a stranger is initially seen as an enemy until they enter a host’s tent. Once accepted, the host becomes responsible for the guest’s safety and social acceptability within the tribe.
Q: How does Freya Stark compare tribal hospitality to the reception of strangers in an English county neighborhood?
A: Freya Stark highlights a common human psychology of initial suspicion toward outsiders, gradually turning into acceptance, both in tribal Iran and English county neighborhoods, despite cultural differences.
Q: Why is guest protection and social acceptability important in tribal societies?
A: In tribal societies, once a guest is accepted into a tent, the host assumes responsibility for their safety and social acceptability, reflecting deep moral obligations and ensuring a guest’s well-being.
Q: How does the essay describe the transition of Freya Stark from an observer to a participant in tribal life?
A: Freya Stark’s journey progresses from observer to active participant in tribal life, immersing herself deeper into the culture and experiencing tribal challenges and intricacies firsthand.
Q: Why are the physical landscapes and landmarks important in the essay’s narrative?
A: The physical landscapes, architectural remnants, and landmarks provide insights into the cultural and historical tapestry of the region, connecting the present with the past and enriching the narrative.
Q: What is the significance of exceptions mentioned, particularly in the wilder regions like Lakistan?
A: The exceptions highlighted in the essay, such as in wilder regions like Lakistan, emphasize the complexity and variability of tribal territories, where the usual rules of hospitality may not always apply, requiring an understanding of local customs and nuances when traveling.
