In the early 20th century, Harry St. John Philby, an explorer and writer, embarked on a remarkable journey through the Arabian Peninsula, an adventure meticulously chronicled in his book “Heart Of Arabia”. This narrative offers an in-depth look at his travels from ‘Uqair to Al Hasa, two towns situated on the eastern shores of Saudi Arabia, providing valuable insights into the landscapes, cultures, and tribes of early Saudi Arabia. Philby’s encounters with the Amir, the Director of Customs, Sultan ibn Suwailim, and various tribes such as the Bani Hajir and the Murra, paint a vivid picture of the Arabian Peninsula’s rich tapestry of life. His detailed observations not only chart the physical challenges of navigating this diverse terrain but also reflect on the social and cultural nuances of the time.
Preparation and Initial Challenges
The outset of Philby’s expedition was marked by an air of anticipation, quickly tempered by the initial hurdles that confronted him and his team. Rising early, they found themselves poised for departure, only to be met with a stark silence that belied their expectations. The absence of camels, which were crucial for their journey, along with a general lack of activity, underscored their naivety in the ways of Arabia and hinted at the challenges ahead. In an attempt to address this delay, Philby approached the Amir, seeking an explanation for the unmet promise of a timely start. The Amir’s admission of the missing camels, coupled with his suggestion of donkeys as a more comfortable alternative, was a clear indication of the lack of preparations. This moment, as Philby describes, was an “ominous suggestion,” revealing that no concrete arrangements had been made for their journey. This initial setback not only highlights the unpredictability of travel in the Arabian Peninsula but also sets the stage for the adaptability and resilience that would define their expedition.
Departure from ‘Uqair
As the expedition finally commenced, the arrival of the camels signalled the beginning of Philby’s long-anticipated journey. This pivotal moment was marked by the convergence of key figures, including the Amir, the Director of Customs, and notably, Sultan ibn Suwailim. Sultan ibn Suwailim, embarking on a confidential mission on behalf of Ibn Sa’ud, represented the intertwining of political and social threads that Philby’s journey would navigate. The assembly of this caravan, a microcosm of Arabian society, was a testament to the complex preparations and negotiations necessary for travel in this challenging landscape.
Logistical Preparations
The preparation phase was a whirlwind of activity, as the team faced the monumental task of organising their supplies and allocating riding animals. Amidst the chaos, the campsite transformed into a hub of activity, with camels and asses being loaded with the expedition’s necessities. This period of preparation was crucial, as it involved sorting out the baggage into loads that matched the capacity of their beasts of burden. Philby notes the remarkable efficiency and energy displayed by the women of the group, who played a vital role in this process. Their expertise in managing the logistics of the caravan was instrumental in ensuring that the expedition was ready to face the challenges ahead. This flurry of activity marked the transition from anticipation to action, setting the stage for the arduous journey that lay ahead.
Route To Hasa and Landscape
As Philby and his caravan embarked on their trek, they were immediately confronted with the vast and unforgiving landscape of the Arabian desert. The journey from ‘Uqair to Al Hasa unfolded across a backdrop of rolling sand-hills and sparse vegetation, a testament to the harsh beauty of the Arabian Peninsula. Philby’s descriptions convey a landscape that is both daunting and mesmerising, with dwarf-palm bushes and the azure expanse of the Gulf of Bahrain providing fleeting moments of respite and wonder. The stark contrast between the desert’s desolation and these pockets of life highlights the region’s unique ecological diversity.
Wildlife and Natural Features
Traversing the Barr al Hasa, the caravan encountered a variety of natural features that underscored the desert’s stark beauty and the resilience of its inhabitants. The presence of desert scrub and the tracks of grazing sheep indicated a landscape that, while harsh, supported life in its myriad forms. Philby’s observations of the dwarf-palm, known for its diminutive, tasteless dates, and the tracks of grazing sheep belonging to the Bani Hajir, offer insights into the adaptations of both flora and fauna to this arid environment. These encounters not only illustrate the biodiversity of the Arabian desert but also reflect on the symbiotic relationship between the land and its nomadic inhabitants, who have mastered the art of survival in one of the world’s most challenging terrains.
Camping at Buraiman
The expedition’s inaugural encampment near Buraiman served as a significant milestone, marking their first night away from ‘Uqair and deeper into the Arabian wilderness. This site, chosen amidst the remnants of a Turkish block-house, symbolised the historical layers that permeate the Arabian landscape, reflecting the region’s strategic importance and turbulent past. Here, Philby and his companions shared the space with ‘Abdullah ibn Sharida, a traveller from the Buraida family returning to Bahrain. This encounter provided a glimpse into the interconnectedness of Arabian societies, as individuals from diverse backgrounds converged on their journeys across the desert. The setting of the campfire became a communal space where stories were exchanged, highlighting the importance of hospitality and shared experiences in Arabian culture.
Cultural Observations
The night at Buraiman unveiled the profound cultural and religious intricacies of the Bedouin lifestyle. Philby noted the travellers’ dietary restrictions, observing how a simple offering of “bully-beef” from their stores was accepted without question by their companions, despite the absence of provisions. This act of sharing food in the desert underscored the communal values and adaptability that are vital for survival in such an unforgiving environment. Furthermore, the encounter with a wolf and the subsequent refusal to consume its prey, deemed “unhallowed“ meat, illuminated the deeply ingrained religious sensibilities that guide daily life and decisions, even in the most dire of circumstances. These observations provide a nuanced understanding of the complexities of Bedouin life, where tradition and belief systems play a crucial role in shaping social norms and practices.
Through the Barr al Hasa Desert
The passage through the Barr al Hasa presented a formidable test of endurance and navigation for Philby and his caravan. Their route meandered through a landscape characterised by high sand billows and deep drifts, where the desert’s immensity and the ever-changing topography challenged their progress at every turn. Philby’s descriptions of this journey highlight the relentless nature of the desert, with its vast, undulating sand dunes that seemed to stretch into infinity. The caravan’s ability to navigate this daunting terrain, relying on age-old knowledge and the subtle markers of the natural world, underscores the deep connection between the Arabian people and their environment. This leg of the journey not only tested the physical and mental resilience of the travellers but also deepened their understanding of the desert’s harsh beauty and the indomitable spirit required to traverse it.
Alternative Routes to Al Hasa
Philby’s narrative sheds light on the strategic considerations that influenced the choice of routes through the desert. The existence of three alternative paths between ‘Uqair and Al Hasa illustrates the intricate knowledge of the landscape that guided ancient travellers. Each route, with its distinct characteristics and challenges, offered different advantages, depending on the season, the state of water sources, and the travellers’ specific needs. The southern route, for instance, though less favoured, connected a series of wells that were vital for survival in the arid expanse. The decision to follow the central route, deemed the most efficient, was a testament to the caravan’s reliance on local expertise and the nuanced understanding of the desert’s geography.
Approach to Al Hasa
As Philby and his caravan surmounted the last of the sand waves, they were greeted by a sight of unexpected beauty—a broad, dark band of palms set against the backdrop of the setting sun. This moment marked a dramatic transition from the desolate expanses of the Barr al Hasa to the lush oasis of Al Hasa, offering a stark contrast that encapsulated the journey’s challenges and rewards. Philby’s relief and awe at the sight underscored the significance of reaching this verdant haven, a symbol of life and resilience in the heart of the desert. The oasis, with its promise of rest and replenishment, represented not just the end of a physical journey but also a deeper, metaphorical arrival at a place of understanding and connection with the Arabian landscape and its people.
Major Themes and Historical Context
The journey from ‘Uqair to Al Hasa, as recounted by Philby, weaves together several major themes—adventure, endurance, cultural exchange, and the profound relationship between humans and the natural world. Through his detailed observations and interactions, Philby offers insights into the historical and cultural fabric of early 20th-century Saudi Arabia, illuminating the lives of the tribes, the strategic importance of oases, and the intricacies of desert navigation. His narrative serves as a bridge between past and present, revealing the enduring spirit of the Arabian Peninsula and its inhabitants.
Harry St. John Philby’s journey from ‘Uqair to Al Hasa offers a captivating glimpse into the early 20th-century Arabian Peninsula, a region rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. Through his detailed narrative, Philby not only documents the physical challenges of desert travel but also highlights the profound cultural and social interactions that define this unique landscape. His observations provide invaluable insights into the lives of the Arabian people, their traditions, and their deep connection with the land.