John Keane, an Englishman born in 1854, embarked on a remarkable journey in his twenties, venturing extensively through the Hejaz region of Arabia. His written account, “My Journey to Medinah,” provides a unique glimpse into his travels, focusing on a camel caravan pilgrimage from Mecca to Medina. However, within this larger narrative of Arabian exploration, Keane dedicates a portion of his text to a specific aspect of his journey—the harrowing sea voyage, and near-mutiny, of Indian & Arabian pilgrims travelling between the Red Sea coast and Bombay.
The sea journey, as Keane recounts, was perceived by the Indian pilgrims he accompanied as a segment of their pilgrimage fraught with greater hardships than any other. Keane’s writing sheds light on their experiences, revealing a narrative that goes beyond ordinary sea voyages and into the realm of human endurance and mistreatment. This essay will explore the sea journey’s challenges, the ill-treatment of pilgrims, and the need for increased official supervision, drawing from Keane’s vivid accounts as the primary source.
The sea-portion of the journey is regarded by the Hindi pilgrims as entailing greater hardships than any other portion of the whole pilgrimage.
John Keane: My Journey to Medinah
Challenges During Sea Voyage
The sea journey, as Keane vividly portrays it, was far from the typical serene experience one might associate with travel by sea. Instead, it was a gruelling test of endurance and resilience for the Indian pilgrims aboard the small steamers.
The first challenge faced by these pilgrims was the common discomfort and sickness inherent in sea voyages. As landsmen thrust into the unpredictable waters of the sea, they battled seasickness and the general inconveniences that come with a voyage across the open ocean. The unfamiliar rocking and rolling of the vessel added to their cramped discomfort, making it a daunting experience for those unaccustomed to such conditions.
However, what made this sea journey truly arduous was the overcrowding aboard these small steamers. The pilgrims, numbering in the hundreds, were crammed together on the filthy, wet decks, with barely enough space to move. This overcrowding meant that personal space and hygiene were luxuries they could ill afford. They endured these harsh conditions throughout the voyage, exacerbating the discomfort and distress of the journey.
Adding to their woes, the pilgrims did not receive the level of care and attention one might expect during such a voyage. In Keane’s account, he paints a stark picture of their treatment, likening it to that of cattle. Water and fuel were supposedly provided, but beyond these essentials, the pilgrims were largely left to fend for themselves. The callousness they faced during this ordeal is exemplified by instances where weaker pilgrims and women were left without water for days due to the greed of the stronger and the negligence of those responsible for distribution.
I do not mean to say that barbarities are practised as a rule on the pilgrims in English ships, but ill-treatment and overcrowding are so common as to call for increased official supervision. Also, there is often much mismanagement on the part of charterers and agents of the pilgrim ships, causing great suffering to the native passengers, for which the ship’s people are in no way to blame.
John Keane- My Journey To Madinah
Racism & Ill-Treatment
One distressing example that Keane recounts involves a mate of a ship who, in a shocking display of cruelty, kicked a woman who was kissing his feet. This incident, driven by the woman’s loss of her ticket, reveals a disturbing disregard for the well-being and dignity of the pilgrims. Keane’s vivid description of the act and his emotional reaction to it underscore the deplorable conduct that some sailors exhibited towards the pilgrims.
I regret to say that there are men among my brother-sailors in the East who treat the natives, over whom they may be “dressed in a little brief authority,” with a brutality and harshness such as they would never have the boldness to show towards the meekest of their own countrymen. I have seen a mate of a ship kick in the mouth a woman who was kissing his feet, all because she had lost her ticket, valued at ten rupees.
John Keane: My Journey to Medinah
The mistreatment was not limited to isolated incidents. Keane goes on to describe how Englishmen would share stories of the pilgrims’ misfortunes with ‘boisterous mirth‘. These narratives, often filled with callousness and amusement, depicted the pilgrims’ suffering and the loss of their belongings during sea voyages. Such insensitivity towards the plight of these travellers raises questions about the moral responsibility of those involved in these journeys.
These examples of ill-treatment and negligence, as depicted by Keane, shed light on the harsh realities faced by the pilgrims during their sea journey. It is apparent that some individuals, in positions of authority and responsibility, exhibited a callous disregard for the well-being of these travellers.
Incidents of Mistreatment
Keane paints a distressing picture of the treatment of pilgrims aboard English ships, highlighting a deep-seated disregard for their well-being. He recounts an incident where a crowd of pilgrims rushed into the ship’s galley, interrupting the cabin dinner preparations, and seizing all available food. This event is emblematic of the pilgrims’ desperate struggle for sustenance during the voyage. The aggressive behaviour exhibited by some pilgrims in their quest for food underscores the dire circumstances they faced.
The mistreatment of pilgrims extended beyond the pilfering of food. Pilgrims would watch for opportunities to snatch items from sailors, including their pipes. This behaviour escalated to the point where it became common for pilgrims to forcibly take pipes from the mouths of crew members. Such acts of aggression and disrespect further exacerbated tensions between the two groups aboard the ship.
Keane’s narrative also provides insight into the sailors’ reactions to the pilgrims’ suffering. English sailors, rather than offering assistance or compassion, often found amusement in the pilgrims’ misfortunes. Keane recounts stories of how a sea wave washed twelve Hajjis overboard, and sailors shared these tales with boisterous mirth. The callousness exhibited by some sailors toward the pilgrims’ suffering is a disheartening aspect of their voyage.
The incidents of mistreatment and the overall atmosphere of tension and overcrowding on English ships carrying pilgrims paint a troubling picture of the journey. While not all crew members may have engaged in mistreatment, the presence of such behaviour underscores the lack of supervision and humane treatment during pilgrimages. Keane’s firsthand observations offer valuable insights into the challenges faced by these travellers and the injustices they encountered during their sea voyage.
The Captain Regains Control
In John Keane’s narrative, as we delve deeper into the sea journey experienced by the pilgrims in “My Journey to Medinah,” a critical turning point emerges—the captain’s decision to regain control of the ship. This pivotal moment serves as a testament to the extreme circumstances and tensions that had engulfed the voyage.
As tensions between the pilgrims and the ship’s crew escalated, the situation became increasingly untenable. In response to the growing unrest, the captain of the ship made arrangements for both offence and defence. The need to maintain order and ensure the safety of the ship and its passengers became paramount.
One key element in regaining control was the midship bridge, which featured a gangway that could be raised and lowered. Two armed sentries were posted on this bridge with strict orders to deny access to any pilgrims. This strategic positioning allowed the crew to maintain control over access to the critical central area of the ship.
The ship’s guns played a central role in the captain’s plan. Two doors on either side of the main deck led to the poop, an elevated section of the ship where arms and ammunition were stored. Behind these stout doors were the ship’s guns, loaded to the muzzle with links of chopped-up chain. This setup allowed for a swift and devastating response to any threat. The doors could be briefly opened, the guns discharged, and then promptly closed before anyone could breach the defences.
In addition to the firepower, the crew had a hot-water hose at their disposal, capable of discharging scalding water over a significant distance. This was a formidable deterrent intended to quell any aggression by the pilgrims swiftly.
The decision to prepare for a confrontation marked a crucial juncture in the voyage. The captain’s actions were driven by a recognition that the situation had spiralled out of control, and immediate measures were needed to restore order and ensure the safety of all onboard. Keane’s narrative provides a vivid account of the preparations made for this critical moment.
Confrontation and Resolution
In the harrowing narrative of John Keane’s “My Journey to Medinah,” we arrive at the pivotal moment—the confrontation between the pilgrims and the ship’s crew and the subsequent resolution. This tense episode serves as a culmination of the escalating tensions and mistreatment endured by the pilgrims during their sea journey.
As the situation aboard the ship deteriorated, with pilgrims growing increasingly restless and agitated due to starvation, a critical incident unfolded. A young lad, carrying a dish of hot curry to the cabin, found himself in the midst of turmoil as two pilgrims accosted him, attempting to seize the dish. In a desperate bid to protect himself, the boy threw the contents of the dish over the pilgrims. In retaliation, they subjected the boy to severe mistreatment.
This incident triggered a rapid escalation of tensions. Pilgrims began to gather in agitated groups, discussing their predicament and threateningly contemplating their options. The atmosphere aboard the ship grew increasingly volatile.
Recognizing the gravity of the situation and the imminent threat of a full-scale conflict, the captain of the ship took decisive action. He ascended to the ship’s bridge and blew three short blasts on the steam whistle—an unmistakable signal for all hands to assemble on and inside the poop, their designated positions in the event of an emergency.
Swiftly, the front and back gangway bridge, connecting the midship bridge to the poop, was raised to deny access to the pilgrims. Every white man aboard the ship, including crew members, promptly took their positions on the poop, preparing to defend against any potential threat.
The pilgrims, driven by desperation and anger, rushed forward as a united body, attempting to breach the poop area. However, the crew’s preparedness and the raised gangway bridge thwarted their efforts. They were left gesticulating and howling defiance, their plans to seize control of the ship foiled.
In a particularly dramatic moment, a young and determined pilgrim leapt towards the ship’s railing, attempting to scale it and breach the poop. The captain responded swiftly, pointing his revolver at the pilgrim’s chest. In a tense standoff, the pilgrim, with audacious resolve, pressed his bare chest against the revolver, daring the captain to fire.
At this critical juncture, an older quartermaster, a member of the ship’s crew, intervened decisively. With a single blow from an iron belaying-pin, he struck the young pilgrim, ending the confrontation by tragically ending the young man’s life.
This tragic incident marked a turning point in the voyage. It showcased the extreme tension and desperation that had engulfed the pilgrims and the crew, leading to a violent and heartbreaking outcome. The crew’s preparedness and the captain’s decisive actions had averted a full-scale conflict, but at the cost of a young life.
Aftermath and Reflection
As we delve further into John Keane’s narrative we must consider the aftermath of the pivotal confrontation between the pilgrims and the ship’s crew. Following the confrontation, the pilgrims found themselves in a subdued state. The use of force and the tragic outcome had quelled their agitated state, and they appeared to accept the changed circumstances. The immediate threat of violence had been averted, and the ship’s crew maintained control over the vessel.
However, the incident left an indelible mark on both the pilgrims and the crew. It served as a stark reminder of the precarious nature of their situation and the potential for violence in such confined and tense conditions. The memory of the young pilgrim’s tragic end lingered as a haunting testament to the extreme circumstances they had faced.
For the ship’s crew, this episode underscored the challenges and responsibilities of maintaining order and safety during pilgrimages. The preparedness that had averted a larger conflict also served as a somber reminder of the consequences of such confrontations.
John Keane’s narrative serves as a poignant account of this pivotal moment, shedding light on the complexities of human behaviour under extreme circumstances. It raises questions about the ethical responsibilities of those involved in organising and overseeing such pilgrimages, as well as the role of compassion and empathy in the face of adversity.
In conclusion, John Keane’s “My Journey to Medinah” provides a powerful and thought-provoking account of a sea journey that transcends the ordinary. It serves as a testament to the resilience of pilgrims in the face of adversity and a reminder of the importance of compassion and empathy in all forms of travel. This narrative offers valuable insights into the complexities of human behaviour and the need for improved conditions and supervision during pilgrimages, ultimately encouraging us to reflect on the treatment of travellers, particularly those on sacred journeys.