Lt Col Dickson’s Kuwait Winter Camp

In the expanse of the Kuwaiti desert, amidst the undulating sands and the whispering winds, lies an intricate tapestry of life and tradition that persisted for centuries prior to the oil boom. “The Arab of The Desert,” a seminal work by H.R.P. Dickson, offers an ethnographic lens into this world, particularly focusing on the Bedouin Arabs. Among the many subjects covered in his meticulous accounts are the seasonal migration habits of the Bedouin people in and around Kuwait. 

Key Takeaways:

  • The early November period signifies significant seasonal and lifestyle changes for the Bedouin tribes.
  • Tribal migrations are strategic and crucial for optimal grazing and water resources.
  • Hunting culture is deeply ingrained, reflecting the Bedouin’s survival skills and social status.
  • The camp layout and organization reflect the Bedouin’s intricate social hierarchy and community bonds.
  • Personal narratives and community relations highlight the rich cultural heritage and resilience of the Bedouin people.
  • Dickson’s account provides invaluable insights into the adaptive strategies and enduring spirit of the Bedouins.

Dickson embarks on a descriptive journey, beginning in early November, where the autumnal signs are impossible to ignore. The desert, often perceived as a monolith of arid constancy, is, in fact, a dynamic and responsive entity, reacting to the subtlest changes in weather and climate. The south winds have been steady, clouds are accumulating in the West, and distant peals of thunder and flashes of lightning foretell the impending rains. This period is not merely a change in weather but a pivotal moment that instigates a series of preparations and migrations for Kuwait’s Bedouin tribes.

The essence of this account is not merely in the observation of these changes but in the understanding of their profound impact on the Bedouin way of life. As Dickson narrates these early November stirrings, he sets the stage for a deep dive into the culture, social structures, and the very soul of the Bedouin community. The book stands as a testament to the rich and often unseen world of the Bedouin Arabs, promising to unravel the complexities and simplicities of desert life in the early 20th century Kuwait. 

Autumn Tribal Movements Around Kuwait

The tribal migrations are not random wanderings but calculated movements towards the hinterland, driven by the imminent promise of rain. Each family, or tent group, sets off independently, ensuring they are well-spaced — typically a mile or so apart — yet within a rifle shot’s distance for security and solidarity. This dispersion strategy reflects the Bedouins’ intricate understanding of their environment and their deep-rooted communal ties, as they remain ready to converge at a moment’s notice in case of any threat.

Dickson notes the specific movements of tribes around Kuwait, detailing their destinations with precision. The Badawin encamped around Kuwait, particularly at the Shamiyah and Dasma wells, have already embarked towards various regions — some to Kabd, others to ‘Adan, and more to the Huzaim and Grain districts. Each tribe’s movement is influenced by factors like historical grazing rights, knowledge of the terrain, and the strategic placement for water and protection.

For water, the various tent dwellers send in camels to the nearest wells, often as far as 30 miles away, once in five, six or seven days. Neither camel, sheep nor man is very thirsty these days, so water is no longer the immediate necessity of life. As the first rains fall and grass begins to come up, water is less and less required by the livestock, till finally in the full rabi’ (spring) when grass is well up and succulent, only man requires it.

H.R.P. Dickson The Arab Of The Desert

Among these tribes, the Fidawiyah, led by their Amir, Haif bin Hajrafl, of the ‘Ajman’s Sulaiman section, make a notable move towards the Humatiyat region beyond Manaqish and the Shaqq. This choice isn’t merely for grazing but is cunningly timed with the arrival of the hubara bustard in the Dibdibba basin, providing an opportune moment for hunting, a revered sport and crucial sustenance activity for the Bedouins. Accompanied by seasoned warriors, the tribe’s movement is a strategic blend of survival and cultural adherence.

Amidst these migrations, Dickson captures the physical movements of the tribes and the cultural and communal underpinnings that guide them. The autumn stirrings are a time of change, anticipation, and strategic planning, deeply rooted in the Bedouin’s intimate connection with their harsh yet beloved desert landscape. 

Hunting Culture in Kuwait

In the heart of the desert’s autumnal metamorphosis, Dickson delves into the Bedouin’s profound relationship with hunting, a practice steeped in cultural significance and survival imperative. As the tribes settle into their new grazing grounds, their attention turns towards the bounties that the changing season brings, primarily the hubara, a coveted game bird that arrives in the Dibdibba region during this time. The preparation and participation in hunting activities are not merely for sustenance but are imbued with cultural values, showcasing skill, bravery, and social status.

The Bedouins employ an array of falcons in their hunting endeavours, including the esteemed falcon or saqar. These birds are not just tools but cherished companions, with each hunter often having a deep, personal bond with their falcon. The falcons are trained for precision and cooperation, embodying the hunter’s skill and prestige. As the hunters set out with their feathered allies, it’s a sight of cultural celebration, each successful catch a testament to the hunter’s prowess and the falcon’s agility.

Hunting also involves preparing for the arid conditions where preservation is key. The preparation of shelia, a type of dried & salted meat, is a meticulous process where the hunted gazelle meat is salted and cut into long strips, ensuring it lasts through the season. This preparation reflects the Bedouin’s deep understanding of their environment and their resourcefulness in preserving food for times when the desert offers little.

Social Hierarchy and Camp Life

As Lt Col Dickson continues his ethnographic journey, he provides a detailed account of the social hierarchy and daily life within a Bedouin camp, particularly focusing on the camp of his trusted aide Salim al Muzaiyin. The layout of the camp itself is a testament to the structured and communal nature of Bedouin life. Each tent has a designated purpose and placement, reflecting the social status, family structure, and daily needs of the inhabitants. From the personal tent of the author to the spaces allocated for servants and guests, the arrangement is deliberate and telling of the intricate social fabric that binds the community.

Within this microcosm of desert life, the daily activities and interactions among the Bedouins come to life. Salim’s camp is bustling with activity, from the tending of livestock to the preparation of meals and the exchange of news and gossip. The hospitality is immediate and generous, with coffee being served in special cups brought from Riyadh, symbolising the importance of guest treatment in Bedouin culture. Dickson’s arrival is met with a flurry of preparations, showcasing the respect and importance placed on visitors.

The social dynamics within the camp are an expression of respect, duty, and familial bonds. Women, while often discreet, play a pivotal role in maintaining the household and participating in the communal life of the camp. The narrative provides glimpses into the interactions between the author and various members of the camp, including the gentle-eyed Amsha and her daughter Hussa, revealing the depth of relationships and the cultural nuances of Bedouin hospitality and interaction.

As soon as the coast is clear, and the menfolk are safely ensconced in their tent, in creeps the gentle-eyed and sweet-voiced Amsha to bid me welcome in the reception portion of my black goat-hair tent. She walks in gracefully, and in her low contralto voice bids me, “Al guwa ya Abu Sa’ud” (Strength to you, O father of Sa’ud), the usual salutation among the womenfolk. “’Allah i gauichi ya Um Hussa” (God give you strength, O mother of Hussa) I reply, and then follows a host of welcoming sentences, such as, “How are you? How is Um Sa’ud? What news of the Khatuna (the wife)? and Sa’ud and Zahra (my children) how are they? Well, well, I hope. What is doing in Kuwait, and what news of rain 

H.R.P. Dickson The Arab Of The Desert

However, the camp is not just a place of domestic activity; it’s a node in the larger tribal network, constantly attuned to the movements and news of other groups and the broader tribal politics. The presence of notable warriors and leaders like Nahar and ‘Ubaid al Mutalaqqim in the broader community underscores the ongoing readiness for defence and the importance of strong leadership.

Dickson provides a vivid portrayal of the rhythms of daily life, the social hierarchy, and the communal values that are central to Bedouin culture. The reader is offered an inside look at the intricate balance of respect, duty, and familial care that characterises the social structure of the Bedouins, set against the backdrop of the unforgiving yet deeply revered desert landscape. Through these descriptions, the essence of Bedouin camp life is brought to life, illuminating the complex interplay of social roles, cultural practices, and the unyielding bonds of community.

Personal Narratives & Community Relations

Dickson’s narrative further delves into the rich tapestry of Bedouin life by exploring personal stories and community relations that provide a deeper understanding of their culture and social structure. Within the confines of the camp and the broader desert landscape, every individual and their interactions play a crucial role in the survival and continuity of the Bedouin way of life.

The intimate glimpses into the lives of Salim, his family, and other members of the camp reveal the profound personal connections that define Bedouin society. Dickson recounts the touching arrival of new lambs in Salim’s flock and the communal joy this brings. Such events are not merely economic boons but are celebrated moments that reinforce communal bonds and the cycle of life that the Bedouins are deeply connected to. The description of the young hunters venturing far for game and the meticulous preparation of venison into shelia (jerky)illustrate the responsibilities and rites of passage for the younger members of the tribe.

The narrative also sheds light on the community relations that extend beyond immediate family ties. The Bedouins’ interactions with their animals, particularly camels and falcons, are not merely utilitarian but are imbued with respect and affection. The animals are integral to the Bedouin’s survival, providing transportation, food, and companionship, and are thus treated with a level of care and reverence that reflects the interdependent relationship between humans and nature in the desert.

Great is the rejoicing, for thirty-six lambs have been born, with more to follow by the end of October. The flock has been nearly doubled since the previous Spring. Better still, fifteen of the lambs are males, which will be killed on suitably festive occasions. Maziad, the Dhafiri, in charge of the camels (fourteen of them) reports the animals’ condition to be perfect, in spite of the long summer in the Huzaim and Suda regions. He himself has just come in from Riyadh with Salim. They went to see how the head of the family, Ibrahim al Muzaiyin (late standard bearer to the great Mubarak of Kuwait, and now with Bin Sa’ud) is faring. Salim now writes in to say that the “Gunsul’s” camp is pitched and all is ready for him to come out—“Gunsul” (Consul) is the name given locally to the Political Agent.

H.R.P. Dickson The Arab Of The Desert

Moreover, the social gatherings, hunting expeditions, and everyday interactions are all laden with cultural significance, serving as opportunities for reinforcing social norms, transferring knowledge, and maintaining the social hierarchy. The presence of notable figures, like the great hunters and tribal sheikhs, as well as the detailed account of a visit by the Amir, highlights the importance of leadership and reputation in Bedouin society. These figures are not only leaders but also cultural icons, embodying the values, skills, and bravery revered in the community.

The historical and cultural significance of Dickson’s ethnographic studies cannot be overstated. They serve as invaluable records of human societies, capturing the subtleties of daily life and communal interactions that might otherwise be lost to time. For the Bedouins of Kuwait, these narratives are a bridge between past and present, offering insights into their adaptive strategies, resilience, and the profound connection they share with their environment.

FAQ:

Q: What is the significance of early November for the Bedouins?
A: It marks the beginning of migrations for better grazing and hints at the upcoming hunting season.

Q: How do Bedouins prepare for the changing seasons?
A: They migrate to new grazing areas, prepare for hunting, and adjust their water collection strategies.

Q: What role does hunting play in Bedouin culture?
A: Hunting is crucial for sustenance and is a revered activity reflecting skill, status, and tradition.

Q: How is the social hierarchy reflected in a Bedouin camp?
A: Through the structured layout of tents and designated roles for each member, reflecting respect and duty.

Q: What does Dickson’s narrative reveal about Bedouin community relations?
A: It highlights the close-knit bonds, cultural traditions, and the deep-rooted sense of community among Bedouins.

Q: Why are ethnographic accounts like Dickson’s important?
A: They preserve the detailed cultural, social, and environmental knowledge of communities like the Bedouins.

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