Lady Hester Lucy Stanhope, a name etched in the annals of history, graces us with her intriguing presence in the world of British exploration, archaeology, and adventure. Born on the 12th of March in 1776, she was a woman of remarkable courage and ambition, a luminary in a time when the world of travel and archaeology was predominantly dominated by men. Her life was a captivating tale, marked by the pursuit of knowledge, the excavation of Ascalon, and the use of mediaeval documents to further the cause of archaeology. This essay delves into the life and legacy of Lady Hester Stanhope, exploring the early influences, her pivotal role in the political realm, and the series of events that led her on an extraordinary path of self-discovery and adventure.
Childhood, Parents and Family
Lady Hester Stanhope’s life begins amidst the grandeur of aristocracy. As the eldest child of Charles Stanhope, 3rd Earl Stanhope, and Lady Hester Pitt, she was born in the opulent surroundings of her father’s seat, Chevening. However, it was in the nurturing embrace of her grandmother, Hester Pitt, Countess of Chatham, at Burton Pynsent, that her formative years unfolded. The early stages of her life were marked by privilege, setting the stage for her remarkable future.
Political Engagement and Contribution
In August of 1803, Lady Hester moved into a different sphere of life, one intertwined with the corridors of power. Her uncle, William Pitt the Younger, who held the prestigious position of British Prime Minister, beckoned her to take on a role that transcended the traditional boundaries of a woman’s duties. As the head of his household and hostess, she assumed the role of a stateswoman, offering her support in political and social life. Her intelligence, beauty, and conversational prowess made her a prominent figure in these esteemed circles. Even when Pitt was away from office, Lady Hester served as his private secretary.
Her contribution was not limited to politics; she was also a driving force behind the creation of the exquisite gardens at Walmer Castle during Pitt’s tenure as Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. Her service and dedication to the nation were commemorated with an annual pension of £1200 following Pitt’s demise in January 1806.
A Journey of Departure and Discovery
However, the tide of Lady Hester’s life took a fascinating turn after the passing of her brother. It was in February 1810 that she embarked on a journey of departure, leaving Great Britain behind. Her decision to venture into the unknown, marking a significant departure from her life of privilege, was spurred by a series of romantic disappointments. One of these heartbreaks was the marriage of her former lover, Granville Leveson-Gower, 1st Earl Granville, to another woman in 1809. Another intriguing aspect of her life was the correspondence she maintained with Lieutenant-General Sir John Moore, a relationship that sparked rumours of an impending marriage before his untimely death in battle during the Peninsular War in the same year.
England to Egypt
This chapter is Lady Hester’s life unfolds as a captivating journey, commencing in the year 1810 when she took her first steps on an extraordinary odyssey, marked by profound encounters and remarkable adventures.
In the crisp February air of 1810, Lady Hester Stanhope set sail from the English port of Portsmouth. Accompanying her on this voyage was her brother, James Hamilton Stanhope, whose presence would only be temporary, extending as far as the island of Rhodes. Stanhope, with an entourage of companions, ventured into the unknown. Among her loyal company were her physician and later biographer, Charles Lewis Meryon, and her maids, Elizabeth Williams and Ann Fry.
In the enchanting island of Rhodes, Lady Hester’s journey took an intriguing turn. Here, she crossed paths with Michael Bruce, a man of adventure who would later become a Member of Parliament. Bruce, brimming with charisma, became not only her lover but also her trusted travelling companion.
The drama and allure of Lady Hester’s journey were further heightened when the party reached Athens. It is said that the renowned poet, Lord Byron, a university friend of Bruce, plunged into the crystalline waters of the Mediterranean to personally greet them. Byron, a poet of sharp wit, left a mark on history by describing Lady Hester Stanhope as “that dangerous thing, a female wit.” He marvelled at her conversation and conduct, noting her “great disregard of received notions.”
Lord Byron’s admiration for her wit did not, however, lead to a debate on women’s rights. He confessed, “I despise the sex too much to squabble with them.” In his eloquent words, he paid homage to the spirited Lady Hester, an individual who defied convention.
From Athens, Lady Hester Stanhope’s expedition continued as they embarked on a voyage to Constantinople, present-day Istanbul. This ancient city, once the heart of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, held the promise of further enchanting encounters and adventures.
The party’s ultimate destination was Cairo, a city that had only recently emerged from the chaos and upheaval following Napoleon’s invasion of Egypt and the ensuing international conflicts. Lady Hester Stanhope’s journey to the Middle East was not only marked by her pursuit of knowledge but also by the profound connections she forged and the intrigue she left in her wake.
Lady Hester Stanhope’s Middle East Travels
This remarkable odyssey began with a shipwreck on the island of Rhodes and culminated in her being hailed as “Queen Hester” by the Bedouins of Palmyra. Along the way, her encounters, dress, and unyielding spirit defy convention and make for an extraordinary tale of exploration and adventure.
In the Wake of a Storm
En route to Cairo, Lady Hester’s ship encountered a tempestuous storm that left them shipwrecked on the enchanting island of Rhodes. The unforgiving sea had claimed their possessions, leaving the party with no choice but to borrow Turkish clothing. Stanhope, known for her indomitable spirit, made a striking decision: she refused to wear the traditional veil worn by women in Turkish society. Instead, she boldly embraced the attire of a Turkish male, donning a robe, turban, and slippers.
Unconventional Attire and Unwavering Determination
Upon arriving in Cairo, transported by a British frigate, Lady Hester’s unconventional attire remained a point of fascination and bewilderment. She boldly acquired a distinctive wardrobe, which, by all standards, was unorthodox for an English woman. Her ensemble included a regal purple velvet robe, embroidered trousers, a waistcoat, a jacket, as well as a saddle and a sabre. Her attire defied societal norms and drew attention, setting her apart in the bustling streets of Cairo. It was in this unique costume that she proceeded to greet the Pasha, leaving an indelible mark in the memories of those she encountered.
An Epic Journey Through the Middle East
The journey of Lady Hester Stanhope was not limited to Cairo; rather, it spanned over two years and encompassed a multitude of destinations across the Middle East. From Gibraltar to Malta, the Ionian Islands to the Peloponnese, Athens to Constantinople, Rhodes to Egypt, Palestine, Lebanon, and Syria, her sojourn was an odyssey that touched countless cultures and landscapes. Throughout her travels, Lady Hester remained steadfast in her choice to forgo the traditional veil, even in the most conservative of societies.
The Honoured Visitor in Jerusalem
In Jerusalem, Lady Hester’s presence was so significant that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a site of profound religious importance, was temporarily cleared of visitors to accommodate her. The church was reopened in her honour, underscoring the mark she left on the places she visited.
A Quest for Destiny
Fortune-tellers had prophesied a unique destiny for Lady Hester Stanhope – to become the bride of a new messiah. This prophecy led her to make matrimonial overtures to Ibn Saud, the chief of the Wahhabi Arabs, who would later rise to prominence as the leader of the First Saudi State.
The Desert Queen of Palmyra
Perhaps one of the most remarkable chapters of her journey was her decision to venture into the desert on her way to the ancient city of Palmyra. The route was known to be perilous, with potentially hostile Bedouin encounters. Undeterred, she embraced the role of a Bedouin, her attire matching theirs, and led a caravan of 22 camels to carry her baggage. Upon her arrival, she was warmly received by Emir Mahannah el Fadel, and in the desert city of Palmyra, Lady Hester Stanhope became known as “Queen Hester.”
The extraordinary life of Lady Hester Stanhope stands as a testament to her fearless spirit, her penchant for unconventional choices, and her quest for destiny. Her journey through the Middle East is a saga of exploration, adventure, and a relentless pursuit of individuality.
Conclusion
The life of Lady Hester Lucy Stanhope was a tapestry woven with threads of privilege, politics, and adventure. Her legacy endures not only in her excavation of Ascalon, which marked a pivotal moment in archaeological history, but also in her innovative use of mediaeval documents to inform her work. Her journey from the opulent halls of British aristocracy to the sands of far-off lands is a testament to her indomitable spirit and thirst for knowledge. Through the lens of her life, we glimpse a remarkable chapter in the annals of British history, a chapter marked by exploration, adventure, and the relentless pursuit of truth. Lady Hester Stanhope’s legacy is an enduring inspiration for generations to come.