In the late 19th century, Lady Anne Blunt embarked on a remarkable expedition into the heart of the Jordanian desert. Her journey, a tapestry of encounters and insights, traversed the challenging landscape and navigated the complexities of local tribes and customs. Her expedition, marked by both physical and cultural explorations, stands as a testament to her extraordinary courage and profound understanding of the Arab world.
On a frost-kissed December morning, Lady Anne Blunt embarked on a venture that would indelibly etch itself in the annals of travel literature. With the sky barely shedding its nocturnal cloak, the expedition set off, under the guardianship of a crisp white frost. Accompanying Lady Blunt were two Druze men sent by a local sheikh, who together were tasked with ensuring the safety and guidance of the group. In their possession were letters of introduction for Ali el-Kreysheh and the Sheikh of Kaf, a testament to the strategic planning underpinning this journey.
As they distanced themselves from the familiarity of their starting point, Mohammed, a member of the group, couldn’t contain his exhilaration. The success of their previous visit had buoyed his spirits. He relayed to Lady Blunt the flattering comments made by Huseyn, who had encountered numerous Europeans, or ‘franjis‘ (Franks), but none, he noted, who grasped the Arab ways as intimately as Lady Blunt and her companions. Unlike others who sought only the ruins, they had ventured to meet him, a gesture that earned them high regard in Huseyn’s eyes. Mohammed vividly painted a scene of their recent hosts, now likely engrossed in discussions over coffee, celebrating the camaraderie and shared ethos of travel that had been kindled.
“Ah,” said Mohammed, “now they are sitting drinking coffee and talking about us. They are saying to each other that the Beg and I are brothers, and we are travelling together, as is right, in search of relations, and to make friends all over the world. There is nothing so asil (noble) as to travel and make friends.
Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race
The journey’s route meandered nearly due south towards Ezrak. Along the way, they encountered remnants of a bygone era: several ruined villages and patches of cultivated land, symbolising the enduring human spirit amidst nature’s vast canvas. Wilfrid, LAdy Blunt’s husband and a skilled marksman in the group, succeeded in hunting sand-grouse, while a fortunate encounter at one of the villages added ten partridges to their provisions, courtesy of a local hunter. This bounty ensured a plentiful supply of meat, a crucial component for sustenance in the unpredictable desert terrain.
Adding to the diversity of their caravan was Assad, armed not with letters or guns, but with a greyhound of remarkable prowess. This long-haired companion, a testament to the region’s rich canine heritage, boasted a keen sense for game. The Arab’s lack of familiarity with the concept of scent in hunting added to the mystique of Assad’s greyhound, which seemed to possess an almost supernatural ability to track down birds.
Assad has got a very handsome greyhound with him, of the long-haired breed, which has a wonderful nose for game. His master declares he sees the birds, for the Arabs do not seem to understand the theory of scent.
Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race
Encounters and Decisions
Upon reaching the village of Metdm, Lady Blunt’s expedition encountered the inevitable delays that come with respecting local customs. Here, they were obliged to partake in the ceremonious drinking of coffee, a ritual deeply ingrained in the cultural fabric of the region. This seemingly simple act of hospitality, however, cost them precious time – a commodity of great value in the vastness of the desert.
During their brief sojourn in Metdm, a new dilemma presented itself. News arrived from Ezrak, indicating the presence of the Sirhan tribe, known to be allies of Huseyn el-Atrash. This revelation compelled Assad and his companion Salman to reconsider their planned route. The mere mention of the Sirhan’s proximity was enough to sow seeds of reluctance in them. A heated discussion ensued, weighing the risks of continuing towards Ezrak against finding an alternative destination. Lady Blunt, known for her decisiveness, refused to succumb to indecision. If not Ezrak, then they would chart a course to Kaf by some other means.
The solution to their quandary came serendipitously at the village well, where they encountered a man and his wife who were knowledgeable about the whereabouts of the Sirdieh tribe. The Sirdieh, being allies of Huseyn, were deemed a safer option. This chance meeting at the well, a place that has long been a crossroads of fate in desert lore, set their course towards the Sirdieh.
The Sirdieh are friends of Huseyn’s, and our Druse guides made no objection to going that way ; Awwad the Shammari declared also that it was all right.
Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race
The Freezing Winter Desert
As the entourage encamped at the edge of a plateau, the reality of their expedition into the Arabian desert began to unfold in its full, stark majesty. The vast landscape stretched before them, offering a panoramic view of hills and plains that stirred a sense of both awe and foreboding. Lady Blunt and Wilfrid, ever the meticulous planners, seized this opportunity to chart out the terrain. This task was a crucial exercise in orienteering, as the landmarks they identified could be vital in navigating the unpredictable desert.
The role of their guides became increasingly significant. Awwad, a man well-versed in the nuances of the desert landscape, proposed a bold strategy: a direct route to Kaf. His confidence in this plan was evident, and he pointed out a tell, a small hill in the desert, which lay in the direction of their destination. However, not all shared Awwad’s enthusiasm for this direct approach. The Druzes, more accustomed to the security of urban life, exhibited a palpable discomfort at the prospect of venturing into the vast, open desert. Their anxiety was further exacerbated by the group’s decision to camp away from the relative safety of villages and tents.
The Druses, like townsmen, are already nervous at the sight of the desert, and angry with us for camping away from villages and tents. Our camp is well concealed in an old volcanic crater, where also we are sheltered from the wind, which is very cold.
Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race
The location of their camp, nestled within an old volcanic crater, offered them protection from the piercing desert wind. The cold was unforgiving, a sharp contrast to the stereotypical image of a perpetually scorching desert. Near their camp was a spring, poetically named Ain el-Ghiaour, or ‘the infidel’s spring’. This spring, according to Druze lore, was the site of a historic battle where Arabs vanquished Christians during the first invasion. Such stories, woven into the fabric of the landscape, added a layer of historical depth to their journey.
Desert Camping Under Stars
As night fell, the sky above them was a tapestry of stars, a sight untouched by the light pollution of more inhabited lands. The group gathered, their spirits buoyed by the clear night and the successful commencement of their journey. They engaged in discussions, planning their next moves. The Sirdieh tribe’s location, at a pool called Shubboitia, was visible before sunset, a distant yellow line too far from their path to consider a detour.
Awwad, pragmatic in his approach, suggested they head straight for Kaf, taking their chances with whatever tribes they might encounter. The options were weighed: El Kreysheh was somewhere ahead, and perhaps Ibn Majil, the Akid of the Ruwailla whom they had met the previous year, was in the vicinity as well. The decision was made to forge ahead at dawn, armed with a good supply of water and a sense of cautious optimism.
Further Travel and Observations
With the first light of dawn Lady Blunt and her companions ascended the crest of the crater to survey the vast expanse that lay before them. The plain unfolded in a spectacle of natural chaos: black volcanic boulders strewn across the landscape, their dark hues creating a stark contrast against the yellow dawn sky. There’s an intrinsic mystery in vast plains, particularly one as unexplored and enigmatic as this part of the Hauran, which even local residents scarcely understood. It was a landscape steeped in history, possibly dating back to the old testament era of Og, King of Basan, lending an air of ancient mystique to their journey.
However, their ascent was not driven by a quest for scenic vistas or romantic ponderings. It was a strategic reconnaissance to spot signs of Arab encampments. Their careful scrutiny was rewarded with the sighting of thin smoke columns, indicative of human presence. One was to the northeast, likely the Sirdieh, and another almost due east, possibly the Kreysheh. With this valuable information, they returned to their party, now spurred on by the clarity of their next destination.
Jordanian Harrah
The day’s travel proved challenging as they navigated the Harra, an area dominated by volcanic boulders. The terrain dictated their path, with little tracks barely accommodating their camels. Their initial companionship with the people heading to the Sirdieh was short-lived, as paths diverged at the hills’ base. Despite the Druzes’ reluctance and evident discomfort with the idea of pursuing the Kreysheh and eventually heading to Kaf, the group persisted, led by Awwad’s navigation.
The Harra presented an unforgiving landscape, compounded by a cold wind that seemed to carry the harshness of winter. Lady Blunt observed the unique weathering of the stones, a phenomenon that lent the stones a chameleon-like quality, changing hue as they passed. The region was devoid of much life, reinforcing the sense of isolation that comes with being in such a remote area. The tracks they followed, meandering through the wadis, appeared ancient and possibly shaped by shepherds in a bygone era.
Searching For Beni Sakhr
The journey took an intriguing turn when Lady Blunt and her party stumbled upon a level stretch of open ground in the heart of the Harra. Initially mistaken for a khabra, a typical desert water pool, this area revealed itself to be part of a long wadi (valley) named Wadi-er-Eajel. It was a discovery that marked a significant moment in their expedition. The valley, with its tamarisk bushes and patches of fresh grass, bore evidence of recent water flow. This sighting was a vivid reminder of the transient yet life-sustaining role of water in such an arid environment.
Awwad and the Druze recognized this valley as the reported location of the Kreysheh tribe, shedding light on the next phase of their journey. However, the direction to take within the valley presented a new decision point. The resolution came in the form of a serendipitous encounter with a flock of sheep and a young boy, a member of the Sirdieh tribe. The boy informed them that the Kreysheh were just a couple of hours further down the valley, aligning perfectly with their intended direction towards Kaf.
Lady Anne Blunt’s expedition, characterised by strategic decisions, adaptability, and an unyielding spirit, offers a window into the 19th-century Arabian landscape and its people. Through her eyes, we witness the raw beauty of the desert, the complexity of tribal interactions, and the enduring human spirit amidst challenging terrains.