Lady Anne Blunt’s Jordan Travels

A Pilgrimage To Nejd,” authored by Lady Anne Blunt, is a captivating narrative that offers a vivid glimpse into the mid-19th-century Arabian landscape. This book chronicles the daring journey undertaken by Lady Anne Blunt and her husband, Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, across the Arabian Peninsula. Their expedition was a quest with a specific purpose: to acquire Arabian horses for breeding. At a time when travel, especially for women in such remote and uncharted regions, was fraught with uncertainties and perils, Lady Anne Blunt’s journey stands out as a remarkable feat.

Key Takeaways:

  • Damascus served as the last point of civilization and preparation before venturing into the desert.
  • The journey offered deep cultural insights into Bedouin life, particularly regarding brotherhood and revenge.
  • Historical and biblical references enriched the journey through the Leja region and discussions of Mount Hermon.
  • Mezdrib’s fair was a pivotal point for cultural exchange and planning the journey’s next phase.
  • Navigating tribal politics and finding a reliable guide in Mezdrib was a significant challenge.
  • The journey required careful logistic preparations, especially for the uncharted Wady Sirhan.

As we delve into the pages of “A Pilgrimage To Nejd,” we embark on a journey alongside Lady Anne Blunt, experiencing the challenges, wonders, and discoveries through her perceptive and articulate narration. Her journey, which begins in the bustling city of Damascus, opens a window into a world that was, at the time, largely mysterious to the Western eye. The journey she undertook, driven by a passion for Arabian horses, unfolds as a fascinating tale of adventure, cultural exchange, and historical significance.

Preparation and Departure from Damascus

The week spent in Damascus marked the final touchpoint of civilization before Lady Anne Blunt embarked on her ambitious journey. Damascus, a city teeming with life and culture, served as the last bastion of familiar comforts and conveniences. Here, Lady Anne and Wilfrid Scawen Blunt immersed themselves in the flurry of preparation, acutely aware of the enormity and potential perils that lay ahead in their quest to reach Nejd.

The couple’s preparations in Damascus were meticulous and thorough. They understood that the journey to Al-Jawf and across the daunting Nefud desert required careful planning and an ample supply of necessities. Given the unpredictability and the harsh conditions of the desert, they could not afford to leave any detail to chance. Their route was charted with the knowledge that they would be traversing a thousand miles of unforgiving terrain, where even the most basic supplies would be scarce.

In planning their route, Lady Anne and her husband placed significant reliance on the account of Mr. Palgrave, a previous explorer of the region. His descriptions and experiences in the Arabian Peninsula provided crucial guidance, shaping their expectations and preparations for the journey. The couple’s reliance on Palgrave’s account underscores the limited information available at the time about these remote areas.

Cultural Insights and Encounters

As Lady Anne Blunt journeyed through the Middle East, her encounters and experiences provided profound insights into the local cultures, particularly the Bedouin way of life. One of the most striking aspects she observed was the Bedouin concept of brotherhood and revenge. This cultural norm was vividly illustrated through the explanations provided by Mohammed, their knowledgeable guide and companion. Mohammed’s descriptions painted a picture of a society where loyalty and honour were paramount, and where the duty of avenging a wronged kin was a deeply ingrained moral obligation.

First of all,” said  Mohammed, ” I should inquire who the shedder of  blood was. I should hear, for instance, that you  had been travelling in the Hauran and had been  killed, but I should not know by whom. I should  then leave Tudmur, and, taking a couple of camels  so as to seem to be on business, should go to the  place where you had died, under a feigned name,  and should pretend to wish to buy corn of the  nearest villagers. I should make acquaintance with  the old women, who are always the greatest talkers,  and should sooner or later hear all about it. Then,  when I had found out the real person, I should  watch carefully all his goings out and comings in,  and should choose a good opportunity of taking him  unawares, and run my sword through him.

Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race

The journey also took Lady Anne through the Leja region, a land characterised by its black volcanic stones and rich historical significance. Here, she found herself traversing the land of Og, king of Bashan, a figure steeped in antiquity. This part of the journey not only offered a scenic spectacle but also a tangible connection to the past, linking the present expedition with the ancient world.

Lady Anne’s narrative is further enriched by her reflections on various historical and biblical references. As they travelled, discussions about Mount Hermon, Gibeon, and Ajalon emerged, adding layers of historical and religious context to their journey. These references not only exemplified the deep historical roots of the regions they were exploring but also highlighted the intertwining of geography, history, and mythology in the Middle Eastern landscape.

During their travels, a significant stop was made at Tafazz, where Lady Anne and Wilfrid met with Mohammed’s Tudmuri relatives. This encounter offered a poignant glimpse into the local life, marked by simplicity and the harsh realities of poverty and famine. The visit underscored the challenges faced by the local populace, bringing to light the everyday struggles in these remote regions.

They told  us… that they had a good stock of wheat  in their underground granaries, sufficient for a  year or even more, which shows a greater amount  of forethought than I should have expected of  them. In these countries it is quite necessary to  provide against the famines which happen every  few years, and in ancient times I believe it was a  universal practice to keep a year’s harvest in store.  

Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race

Arrival and Experiences in Mezdrib

Upon their arrival in Mezdrib, Lady Anne Blunt and her entourage were greeted by the vibrant atmosphere of the annual fair. This event was a hive of activity and a melting pot of cultures, reflecting the dynamic nature of life in this part of the Arabian Peninsula. The fair, bustling with traders, travellers, and local tribes, offered a vivid snapshot of the region’s social and economic life.

The setting of their camp in Mezdrib provided a front-row seat to the lively interactions and commerce that characterised the fair. Lady Anne’s descriptions of the scene paint a picture of a colourful and lively gathering, set against a backdrop of picturesque landscapes, including a range of distant hills and a sparkling blue lake. The presence of the ruined khan or castle added a touch of historical intrigue to the already captivating scenery.

During their stay in Mezdrib, Lady Anne and Wilfrid engaged with various local tribes, an experience that further deepened their understanding of the region’s complex social fabric. One notable interaction was with a Haurani sheikh and a young man from Buraydah in Nejd. These meetings were not just social calls but were instrumental in gathering information and forging connections that would be vital for the continuation of their journey.

In  person he is very different from any of the Anazeh  Sheikhs we have seen, reminding one rather of the  Jiburi, or other Euphrates Arabs. The Beni Sokkhr  are in fact of Shimali or Northern race, which is  quite distinct from the Nejdi, to which both Ànazeh  and Shammar belong. He is a fine picturesque old  man, with rugged features and grey beard and an  immense nose, which put us in mind of the conventional Arab types of Scripture picture books, and  seemed to correspond with a suggestion I have  heard made, that the Beni Sokkhr * are really the  Beni Issachar, a lost tribe.  

Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race

Perhaps the most challenging aspect of their time in Mezdrib was navigating the complexities of securing a reliable guide. They encountered tribal conflicts and financial expectations that were significantly different from their own. Discussions with Sâkhn and Fendi el-Faiz from the Beni Sakhr tribe highlighted these challenges. The Blunts needed to tread carefully, balancing respect for local customs and pragmatic considerations essential for their journey’s success.

We  did not, ourselves, broach the subject of our journey;  but after coffee had been served, Mohammed had a  private conversation with the Sheykh, which resulted  in an invitation from him to his tents, which he  described as being somewhere near Zerka on the Haj  road, from which he will send us on to Maan, and  ultimately to Jdf. This plan, however, does not at  all suit Wilfrid, who is determined on exploring the  Wady Sirhan, which no European has ever done,  and he insists that we must go first to Ezrak (Azraq).

Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race

Planning thethe Journey To Azraq

In the face of uncertainties and the complex dynamics of local politics and tribal affiliations, Lady Anne Blunt and her husband made the decisive choice to move towards Azraq, leaving Mezdrib without a concrete plan. This decision, bold and resolute, reflected their commitment to the journey and their willingness to embrace the unknown. The route to Azraq was less trodden and far more uncertain, but it held the promise of new discoveries and experiences.

The logistic preparations for this leg of the journey were crucial. Understanding the challenges of the Wady Sirhan, an uncharted and potentially perilous stretch of desert, they took the prudent step of purchasing extra camels. These camels were not merely for transport; they were a lifeline, essential for carrying the additional food supplies needed for both humans and animals. Given the drought conditions of the year, which meant scarce pasture, this foresight was vital.

The preparation did not stop at provisioning. The couple also had to ensure they were ready for the lack of pasture and other provisions. They carefully selected and stocked aliek, a traditional camel food made from grain, and barley for their mares. These preparations were a blend of traditional knowledge and practical necessity, illustrating the couple’s adaptability and respect for local customs and practices.

Aliek, which is the camel food used at Damascus,  is made of a sort of grain, like small misshapen  peas or lentils, the husk green and the seed red.  It is mixed up into dough with wheaten flour and  water, and then kneaded into egg-shaped balls five  inches long. Six of these balls are a camel’s daily  ration, which, if he can pick up any rubbish by the  way, will be enough to keep him fat. We are carry ing barley for the mares.  

Lady Anne Blunt: A Pilgrimage to Nejd, The Cradle of the Arab Race

Departure from Mezdrib

As the time came for Lady Anne Blunt and her party to depart from Mezdrib, the final interactions with the locals provided poignant moments of cultural exchange and mutual respect. Among the most memorable of these were the interactions with their relatives from Taffazz, who had come to bid them farewell. These relatives brought with them not just well-wishes but tangible tokens of their regard and support – gifts that included essential supplies like ferikeh (finely crushed wheat), bread, and fowls, as well as more personal items like a sheepskin coat and a greyhound. These gifts, a blend of practicality and affection, were characteristic of the generous hospitality prevalent in the region.

The departure from Mezdrib was enveloped in a sense of uncertainty and anticipation. Although Lady Anne and her husband had a broad plan for their journey ahead, many aspects were still undecided, and much depended on the circumstances they would encounter along the way.

Lady Anne Blunt’s journey to Nejd is a significant historical document, offering insights into the 19th-century Arabian landscape and Bedouin culture. Her experiences and observations remain invaluable, painting a picture of a world that was, at the time, largely unexplored by the West. “A Pilgrimage To Nejd” thus stands as a crucial contribution to our understanding of this region and era, a journey not only across lands but through time and culture.

FAQs:

Q: What was the primary purpose of Lady Anne Blunt’s journey?
A: To acquire Arabian horses for breeding.

Q: Where did Lady Anne Blunt prepare for her journey into the Arabian desert?
A: In Damascus.

Q: What guidebook did Lady Anne Blunt rely on for her journey?
A: Mr. Palgrave’s account.

Q: What cultural aspects did Lady Anne Blunt explore in her journey?
A: Bedouin customs, particularly around brotherhood and revenge.

Q: What challenges did Lady Anne Blunt face in Mezdrib?
A: Navigating tribal politics and securing a reliable guide.

Q: What

Q: What was the significance of Mezdrib in Lady Anne Blunt’s journey?
A: Mezdrib was a key location for cultural exchange and strategic planning for the next phase of the journey.

Q: How did Lady Anne Blunt manage logistic challenges during her journey?
A: By careful planning, such as purchasing extra camels for carrying food through the Wady Sirhan.

Q: What attitude did Lady Anne Blunt exhibit towards the uncertainties of her journey?
A: She embraced uncertainty and demonstrated adaptability.

Q: What does “A Pilgrimage To Nejd” reveal about the 19th-century Arabian landscape?
A: It offers valuable insights into the Arabian landscape, culture, and Bedouin life of that era.

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