John Fryer Thomas Keane stands as a distinctive figure in the records of 19th-century Arabian travel literature. Born in England, in 1854, Keane embarked on a life journey that transcended the conventional boundaries of exploration. In 1877, at the tender age of 23, Keane undertook a pilgrimage journey of unparalleled significance—to Mecca and Medina. What sets his accounts apart is not merely the geographical breadth of his travels but the clandestine nature of his infiltration. Disguised as a Muslim pilgrim, Keane donned a role that allowed him to observe and document the intricacies of a 19th-century pilgrimage caravan. His memoirs, compiled in “My Journey to Medina,” serve as an invaluable record of this daring expedition.
Here we delve into Keane’s observations, focusing on the challenges and dangers faced by both travellers and camels during the pilgrimage caravan from Mecca to Medina. Keane’s descriptive style provides a unique lens through which we can explore the trials and tribulations of a journey that transcends time and cultural boundaries.
Camels: Lifeblood & Engine
Keane’s observations capture the meticulous arrangements made for the camels and their accompanying shugdufs. Blankets secured with twine, possessions carefully organised within the shugduf—these were not mere logistics but the essential groundwork for a journey laden with uncertainties.
In the arduous pilgrimage across the unforgiving desert, the scarcity of camels became a pivotal challenge for the pilgrims. As the caravan set out, the realisation dawned that there were fewer camels than needed, prompting a resourceful arrangement. Pilgrims, faced with the shortage, took turns riding the available donkeys, demonstrating a communal effort to adapt to the challenging circumstances.
The camels, typically the stalwart companions of the journey, played a central role in the pilgrims’ progression. However, the shortage forced inventive solutions, showcasing the pilgrims’ resilience in the face of adversity. These patient and enduring creatures, usually burdened with the weight of provisions and the aspirations of the travellers, faced the additional challenge of unpredictable terrain.
The journey witnessed a poignant incident when one of the camels, navigating the rocky slopes, suffered a fall, underscoring the perils of the pilgrimage. A real fall for a laden camel meant more than just a stumble; it often resulted in total wreckage, a shattered shugduf (carriage), and potential injuries to both riders and the camel itself. Such incidents illuminated the vulnerability of the caravan and the fragility of its means of transport, casting a shadow on the already challenging pilgrimage.
Despite the hardships, the camels remained integral to the pilgrims’ progress. Their limited number compelled the caravan to adopt a system where some would ride the donkeys while others walked, a testament to the adaptability and shared burden of the pilgrimage. In the narrative, the camels became symbolic of both the challenges faced and the communal spirit that sustained the pilgrims through their demanding journey.
Mabarak’s Condition
Among the camel companions, the one ridden by Keane looms large in the narrative—Mabarak. Keane’s discerning eye reveals Mabarak’s plight, a creature burdened not only by the weight of physical affliction but also by the callous indifference of its handlers. The raw, corrupting sore on Mabarak’s back becomes a poignant metaphor for the harsh realities faced by these indispensable companions. As the caravan progressed the Camel’s health deteriorated until it became obvious this would be its last journey.
Sick and weary, Mabarak lay down for the last time. Shaykh the Bo’sen examined him and pronounced him incurable, and after a short consultation advised the one relief left the patient.
John Keane: My Journey To Medina
In a stark illustration of the harsh realities faced during the pilgrimage, Mabarak’s carcass, once a vital companion on the arduous journey, found a grim fate. Stricken by the dual challenges of food scarcity and poverty, the pilgrims were compelled to make use of every available resource for sustenance. Mabarak’s lifeless body became a source of essential nourishment as the desperate pilgrims, facing the harsh desert conditions, stripped the carcass for meat.
The first gush of blood from the huge gash had hardly reached the sand ere the fakirs* fell upon him, and soon all the tramps in the caravan were scrambling round the carcass, stripping Mabarak’s gaunt emaciated frame of such tough tissue as labour and starvation had left upon it.
John Keane: My Journey To Medina
The vulture scene, while grim, highlights the practicality ingrained in the caravan’s survival instincts. Mabarak’s fate, a microcosm of the larger caravan dynamics, sheds light on the stark choices made in the pursuit of pilgrimage.
Night Journey and Camel Breakdown
As the caravan sets forth into the night, Keane’s narrative mirrors the arduous trek of both man and beast. A camel breaks down, mirroring the vulnerability of the travellers themselves. The parallel between the camel’s condition and the fate of Mabarak introduces a recurring theme—the symbiotic relationship between the well-being of the caravan and the health of its camel comrades.
Night Alarms and Robbery Attempts
As darkness descends, the camp becomes a theatre of potential perils. False alarms punctuate the night, revealing the nervous undercurrents within the caravan. Yet, amidst the din, a serious alarm unfurls—a calculated attempt by robbers to disrupt the caravan’s course. Keane’s account navigates through these tumultuous moments, offering a glimpse into the inherent dangers that lurk in the shadows.
When confronted with a Bedouin assailant, Keane’s narrative takes a dramatic turn. The encounter with a knife-wielding intruder becomes a pivotal moment, showcasing the vulnerability of the caravan to external threats. The subsequent capture and punishment meted out to the Bedouin underscore the caravan’s commitment to ensuring its safety, even if it demands stringent measures.
He made no excuses whatever for his conduct, and would not reveal the name of the Bedouin whom I had seen with him. The sentence passed was two hours’ law, then to be shot at sight and I promised him that I would keep a sharp look-out for him
John Keane: My Journey To Medina
The aftermath of the robbery attempt unfolds against the backdrop of the caravan’s collective shock. Camels, once steadfast companions, are gone, and individuals are left in the clutches of the marauders. Keane’s portrayal of the caravan’s response captures both the resilience and vulnerability of its members. The confrontation with the harsh realities of the pilgrimage journey becomes palpable, and the caravan grapples with the unsettling truth that danger is not confined to the daylight hours.
Pilgrims Traversing Tribulations
In the vast expanse of the desert, the pilgrims found themselves navigating the challenging pilgrimage with resilience and fortitude. The shortage of camels forced many to tread the uneven terrain on foot, a testament to their unwavering commitment to the sacred journey despite the physical toll.
Amidst the harsh conditions, the pilgrims carried only meagre supplies of water, filling every available vessel before departing from their encampment. The looming prospect of two nights before reaching the next well heightened the sense of urgency and highlighted the scarcity of resources.
The diverse reactions among the pilgrims mirrored the spectrum of human responses to adversity. Some walked silently, shouldering the weight of their hardships without complaint, while others expressed their anguish through fervent prayers and audible signs of distress. The narrator observed the struggles of those on foot, their bowed shoulders and tottering steps narrating tales of endurance in the face of immense challenges.
Conflicts with the Bedouins added another layer of complexity to the pilgrims’ journey. The harsh reality that these nomads would resort to cutting off the heads and hands of stragglers served as a constant reminder of the dangers inherent in their pilgrimage.
One remarkable story emerged amid the collective struggle—the narrative of a courageous woman from Bombay. Left in charge of her husband’s business, she sold all her possessions to embark on the journey to reunite with him in Medina. The sight of her, trudging along with a baby at her breast and two young children in tow, exemplified the indomitable spirit that persisted within the caravan.
The pilgrims, bound by a shared purpose and a common faith, forged onward through rocky passes, dusty plains, and arduous conditions. The pilgrimage became a crucible that tested not only their physical endurance but also the depth of their commitment to a sacred journey that transcended the hardships of the desert.
Inhospitable Terrain
The terrain through which the pilgrims traversed during their sacred journey presented a formidable and ever-changing landscape. Initially, the caravan wound its way through narrow passes between towering cliffs, navigating a labyrinth of rock formations. The arduous path took them over bare rocks, with gentle inclines and through ravines so narrow that only one camel at a time could pass.
The rocky regions posed challenges, and the journey included the unfortunate incident of a camel descending a slope ahead of the narrator’s party, resulting in a fall on the unforgiving rocks. Such events highlighted the precarious nature of the pilgrimage, where a single misstep could lead to significant consequences, not just for the travellers but also for their essential means of transport—the camels.
As the pilgrimage progressed, the terrain transitioned from the towering cliffs to a vast, dusty plain. Keane vividly described the landscape, emphasising the glaring sun and the mirage phantoms that danced on the horizon. The desolation of the barren waste, coupled with the constant mirages, created a disheartening and challenging environment for the pilgrims.
The journey through the rocky regions and the expansive plain showcased the diverse and unforgiving nature of the desert. The towering cliffs, reaching upwards of one thousand feet, and the seemingly rectangular sky-line prompted illusions of human architecture on a colossal scale. Each step deeper into the barren waste heightened the pilgrims’ sense of dismal insignificance.
The physical toll of the terrain became evident in the description of pilgrims on foot, hugging the shade of the camels, crawling along with bowed shoulders, and tottering steps. The landscape became a silent witness to their struggles, mirroring the internal and external challenges faced on the pilgrimage.
Beduin Confrontations
The Bedouins added an element of uncertainty and potential danger to the pilgrims’ already challenging journey across the desert. Mentioned as a potential threat, the Bedouins were known to have been responsible for massacres in the region, particularly targeting pilgrim caravans. This ominous reputation cast a shadow over the pilgrimage, introducing an element of vulnerability that the travellers had to contend with.
Conflict with the Bedouins emerged as a recurring theme during the journey. The text describes quarrels and scuffles between the pilgrims and the Bedouins, underscoring the tensions that simmered in the arid expanse. In one instance, a pilgrim was wounded in a scuffle with Bedouins, highlighting the real and immediate dangers posed by these nomadic inhabitants of the desert.
Keane paints a grim picture of Bedouin practices, asserting that those who followed in the wake of a pilgrim caravan were known to cut off the heads and hands of any stragglers they encountered, whether alive or dead. This brutal strategy served as a stark reminder of the perils that extended beyond the natural challenges of the terrain.
The presence of Bedouins heightened the sense of insecurity among the pilgrims, forcing them to navigate not only the physical obstacles of the desert but also the potential threat of human conflict. The interplay between the pilgrims and the Bedouins became a subplot in the larger narrative of the pilgrimage, adding layers of complexity and an undercurrent of tension to the already demanding journey.