John Keane, an Englishman who lived from 1854 to 1937, embarked on a remarkable adventure in his twenties. His extensive travels through the Hejaz region of present-day Saudi Arabia provided a unique perspective on this historically and culturally significant area. Keane documented his experiences in two books, and in this essay, we will delve into his observations from “My Journey to Medinah,” a recounting of his travels as part of a camel caravan of pilgrims from Mecca to Medina and back.
Geographical and Natural Description
The Hejaz, a land known to many but understood by few, encompasses a diverse range of landscapes and features. John Keane’s narrative begins by highlighting the geographical, political and natural aspects of this intriguing region during the mid 19th century.
Bounded to the north by the Land of Midian, which falls under the rule of the Pasha of Egypt, the Hejaz extends along the Red Sea’s coastline until approximately the twentieth parallel of latitude. To the east, it encompasses territory that stretches from the coast to the expansive central plateau of the Nedj. The Nedj, often associated with the renowned Arab horse breed, is under the rule of the Wahabi leadership.
Politically, the Hejaz is subject to the authority of the Sultan of Turkey. Turkish troops are stationed in key towns, and their presence is a testament to the complex dynamics at play in this historically significant region. Despite the firm grip of Turkish rule, Keane hints at a simmering discontent among the locals, both in the towns and the desert, which could potentially lead to a revolt. The detestation of Turkish authority is shared by both town-dwellers and desert nomads, and the prospect of their unity against a common enemy is a looming threat. This sentiment, combined with the readiness of pilgrims to join such a cause, adds an air of uncertainty to the region.
Intriguingly, the Hejaz houses two pivotal cities in Islamic history, Mecca in the south and Medina in the north, separated by a journey of approximately three hundred and sixty miles. This journey, undertaken on swift camels, takes a mere six days, highlighting the efficiency and importance of camel travel in this region. The city of Taif, situated seventy-five miles east-southeast of Mecca, offers a contrast in elevation, perched on the southern slope of the Gazuan range, where snow is known to settle on it’s highest elevations.
As Keane continues his narrative, he uncovers the vital ports of Yembu and Jeddah along the Red Sea’s coast. Yembu serves as the port of Medina, boasting a significant import trade and serving as a disembarkation point for pilgrims visiting the holy sanctuaries. Meanwhile, Jeddah, the bustling port of Mecca, stands directly west of its more famous counterpart. Jeddah features a commodious and secure harbour, albeit with challenging approaches, and attracts European merchants, agents, and travellers. Keane emphasises that, apart from two notable exceptions—namely, the prohibition of intoxicating drinks and the presence of Christians—Jeddah bears a striking resemblance to other towns in the Hejaz. It offers a microcosm of diversity, with natives from all corners of the world mingling in its bustling bazaars.
Natives of every country under the sun may be seen in it’s crowded bazaars, and the products of the same may be bought in its shops and stalls. Excepting in two particulars it bears a strong family likeness to every other town in the Hejaz, especially to Meccah ; and these are, that the place is not interdicted to intoxicating drinks or Christians; but these abominations to the true believer are strictly confined to the very circumscribed space enclosed within its walls.
John Keane: My Journey To Medinah
Tomb of Eve
In the shadows of the Hejaz’s fortified walls, a place of historical intrigue lies—the Tomb of Eve. Keane briefly mentions this site, situated outside the walls of Jeddah, and the veneration it holds in the local lore. Although he didn’t visit it personally, his companions’ descriptions paint a picture of an enigmatic place. The Tomb of Eve, believed by some to be the final resting place of the mother of mankind, Sittna Hawwa, is adorned with a diminutive dome housing a square stone known as “El-Surrah” or the navel. This site, though open to interpretation, adds another layer of mystique to the Hejaz.
Christians in Jeddah
As John Keane’s narrative unfolds, he provides valuable insights into the presence of Christians in Jeddah, shedding light on the complex dynamics of this diverse Hejazi port city.
Tolerated by the authorities but resented by the Meccans, Christians in Jeddah occupy a precarious position in the Hejaz. Keane notes that without the presence of Turkish authority in the Hejaz, Christians would not be tolerated by the local inhabitants, especially in Jeddah. Their mere presence is a source of grievance for the Meccans, highlighting the underlying tensions and hostilities that simmer beneath the surface of this cosmopolitan port city.
Keane’s observations suggest that the Christians in Jeddah are living on the edge of a potentially volatile situation. He emphasises the vulnerability of these European residents, suggesting that they would feel safer in Mecca itself than in Jeddah. In the event of an outbreak or political unrest in the Hejaz, the safety of these Christians would be in jeopardy. Keane goes so far as to express his belief that if such an event were to occur, the massacre of all Europeans in Jeddah would be likely. This stark assessment underscores the precariousness of their situation and highlights the potential risks they face in this region.
I have no hesitation in saying, though I may risk the charge of offering an immature opinion, that should any political or fanatical ferment arise in the Hejaz, one of the first results will be the massacre of all the Europeans in Jeddah. As a Nazzara (Christian) in the Hejaz, I should feel safer in Mecca itself than in Jeddah, at this moment. Found by the authorities, in Mecca, I might perhaps—as was the case with an Englishman who attempted the pilgrimage in 1876—be mercifully and ignominiously expelled as an idiot ; but should an outbreak occur in Jeddah I would expect no quarter.
John Keane: My Journey To Medinah
Keane’s narrative challenges the perception that a man-o’-war stationed nearby provides adequate protection for European residents. He underscores the tendency of Englishmen and other foreigners to downplay the real dangers they face, citing instances of consuls being murdered and subjects being assassinated due to a lack of timely precautions. The author’s candid assessment serves as a sobering reminder of the risks associated with residing in the Hejaz, particularly for non-Muslims.
Intriguingly, Keane suggests that the presence of Christians in Jeddah plays a unique role in the region’s stability. He describes them as sitting on the “safety-valve” of the Hejaz, implying that their presence may serve as a buffer or deterrent against potential uprisings. The Christians in Jeddah, unwittingly or not, become a part of the complex socio-political landscape of the Hejaz.
Bedawi and Their Characteristics
As John Keane’s journey through the Hejaz region unfolds, he offers vivid insights into the enigmatic Bedawi nomads who inhabit the vast desert landscapes of this intriguing land.
The Bedawi, with their nomadic way of life, possess a unique set of characteristics that distinguish them from other inhabitants of the Hejaz. Keane’s narrative provides a window into their world, shedding light on their customs, beliefs, and social dynamics.
First and foremost, the Bedawi are nomads of the wilderness, living a life deeply intertwined with the arid and unforgiving desert terrain. While Keane draws a parallel between their stature and that of the Bengali, he notes that the Bedawi are characterised by their wiry and tough physical constitution. These desert dwellers, who often weigh around ten stone (about 140 pounds), possess resilience and endurance that allow them to thrive in the challenging desert environment. Their way of life revolves around survival in a harsh and arid landscape.
Keane’s account highlights the distinctive armament of the Bedawi. He notes that they are armed with guns, spears, and swords, each serving specific purposes in their nomadic existence. Their guns, often matchlocks, stand out for their long barrels, which enable accurate shooting over significant distances. The author underscores their expertise in using these firearms for hunting and protection, though he remarks on the primitive nature of their gun sights.
Spears, another integral part of the Bedawi’s arsenal, come in two varieties. The long spear, exceeding twelve feet, is used when mounted, showcasing their adeptness at cavalry warfare. Its shaft, often made of male bamboo from India, is adorned with tufts of ostrich feathers under the head, reflecting a touch of cultural flair. The shorter spear, reserved for footmen, emerges as a more versatile and practical weapon. It typically measures no more than eight feet in length and is constructed with a combination of iron, hardwood, and a blade designed for thrusting and throwing with precision. Keane lauds the design of this weapon, emphasising its effectiveness in the hands of Bedawi footmen.
Swords, an emblem of Bedawi culture, are highlighted by Keane for their unique characteristics. These curved blades, sharp on both edges and finely pointed, are traditionally worn across the body, with the hilts positioned to the left. The author suggests that some of the wealthier Shaykhs may even carry Persian swords, adding a touch of elegance to their armament. These swords are emblematic of the Bedawi’s warrior spirit and the importance of weaponry in their daily lives.
Intriguingly, Keane explores the Bedawi’s approach to combat and honour. While these nomads are undoubtedly brave, he points out that they exercise discretion in battle. They consider everything fair in war but seldom engage in outright violence. Instead, their combat style involves inflicting minor cuts and injuries, often targeting limbs. This practice, along with their tendency to use firearms, is intended to wound rather than kill, allowing them to establish blood feuds or vendettas that can persist from generation to generation until vengeance is achieved.
A distinctive feature of the Bedawi is their adherence to a code of honour within their clans. Keane notes that they have numerous points of honour that they uphold meticulously, and the murder of a relative is inherited as a blood feud, passed down from father to son until retribution is secured. This practice underscores the Bedawi’s strong sense of clan identity and the importance of maintaining their honour and reputation.
Furthermore, Keane dispels the notion that the Bedawi disregard their lives. Despite their reputation for fearlessness, they do not undervalue life. The author suggests that their willingness to fight fiercely and the presence of vendettas may mislead observers into thinking otherwise. However, the Bedawi, who have little to lose except their lives, do not treat life lightly, and they exhibit a deep-seated instinct for self-preservation.
Women in 19th Century Hejaz
John Keane’s exploration of the Hejaz region extends to the social dynamics and role of women, providing glimpses into a society where traditional norms and practices shape the lives of its female inhabitants.
Throughout Keane’s narrative, there is a noticeable absence of women from the daily life and interactions he describes. The author acknowledges that he did not encounter the faces of more than twenty women during his travels in the Hejaz. This scarcity of female presence is a reflection of the traditional and conservative nature of the society, where women’s visibility in public spaces is limited.
Keane’s observations reveal a society where women mature early and often lead lives characterised by seclusion. He notes that while there may be a few young girls with sweet faces, they quickly transition into adulthood. The prevalent image that emerges is one of haggard and aged women, their features etched with the harshness of life in the Hejaz.
It is essential to recognize that the Hejaz region, particularly during the period of Keane’s travels, adhered to conservative Islamic customs and values. This likely contributed to the seclusion of women and their limited presence in public spaces. The Hejaz, as home to Mecca and Medina, holds deep religious significance, and adherence to traditional Islamic practices is strongly emphasised.
Keane’s narrative, while providing insights into the lives of the Bedawi nomads and the bustling ports of Jeddah and Yembu, offers only fleeting glimpses of women. This limitation is indicative of the societal norms of the Hejaz during the time of his travels.
Exports of the Hejaz
John Keane’s journey through the Hejaz region provides us with valuable insights into the exports and commodities that define the economic landscape of this historically rich land.
The Hejaz, while primarily known for its religious significance as the home of Mecca and Medina, is not devoid of economic activity. Keane outlines a concise list of the region’s key exports, shedding light on the products that contribute to its economic vibrancy:
Kohl, a powdered form of antimony, is a product of the Hejaz that holds cultural and cosmetic significance. It is primarily used by women to darken the rims of their eyes. Keane’s mention of kohl highlights the enduring presence of traditional cosmetics in the region, underscoring the blending of culture and commerce.
Heima (henna), a crimson dye, plays a role in personal adornment. Women use it to make their nails pink, and in some cases, Hindi women may use it to colour both their hands and feet in deep red hues. This practice is an expression of cultural customs, and Heima’s trade underscores the importance of cosmetics in the Hejazi society.
Hides are a significant export from the Hejaz. Keane does not delve into specific details, but their presence on the list suggests a robust trade in animal hides. This is consistent with the traditional practices of nomadic Bedawi who engage in animal husbandry.
Dates, a staple crop in the region, are among the most well-known exports of the Hejaz. These sweet fruits not only serve as a dietary staple but also hold cultural and economic significance. Date cultivation has been a part of Hejazi life for centuries, and Keane’s inclusion of dates in the list reflects their enduring importance.
Zem-Zem water, sourced from the sacred well in Mecca, holds immense religious significance for Muslims. Pilgrims to Mecca often seek to obtain Zem-Zem water as a sacred souvenir. Its inclusion on the list highlights the intertwining of religion and commerce in the Hejaz.
Balsam of Mecca is another noteworthy export mentioned by Keane. While he provides limited information, balsam is traditionally associated with medicinal and aromatic properties. Its trade likely contributed to the economic activity in the region.
Gold and Precious Stones: The Hejaz is known for its rich geological resources, including gold and precious stones. These natural resources have attracted traders and craftsmen for centuries, contributing to the economic diversity of the region.
Talismans and Charms: Keane’s mention of talismans and charms suggests a thriving market for spiritual and superstitious artefacts. These items are often sought after for their perceived protective or luck-bringing properties.
While Keane’s list of exports provides a glimpse into the economic facets of the Hejaz, it is essential to recognize that the region’s significance extends beyond commerce. The Hejaz, with its historical and religious prominence, represents a unique intersection of culture, faith, and trade.
In the subsequent sections, we will continue to explore John Keane’s observations, focusing on the potential implications of the Christians’ presence in Jeddah and the broader socio-political landscape of the Hejaz. Keane’s narrative offers a multifaceted view of a land where tradition and modernity coexist, and where the interplay of culture and commerce shapes its identity.
Socio-Political Landscape of 19th Century Hejaz
John Keane’s journey through the Hejaz region offers valuable insights into the socio-political landscape of a region marked by religious significance, tensions with Turkish authorities, and the potential for future unrest.
The Hejaz, during Keane’s travels, was under the authority of the Ottoman Empire. Turkish troops were stationed in the region, and every considerable town had a garrison of Turkish soldiers. While the Turks maintained their authority, Keane notes that their rule was often characterised by harsh and semi-barbarous methods. The presence of Turkish forces in the Hejaz represented a centralising influence, but it also stirred tensions with the native population.
Keane observes a pervasive sense of discontent among the native population of the Hejaz, both among the settled Arabs in towns like Mecca and the Bedawi nomads of the desert. The detestation of Turkish rule was a shared sentiment among these diverse groups. Keane, in a moment of uncanny prescience, suggests that the native population, if united and armed with modern weaponry, could pose a significant challenge to Turkish authority. He even speculates that a general revolt may be imminent, driven by this common opposition to Turkish rule.
The author’s assessment of the region leads him to believe that the potential for unrest in the Hejaz is high. The long-standing grievances against Turkish rule, combined with the deep-seated detestation of the Meccans for Christian residents in Jeddah, create a volatile backdrop. Keane suggests that any political or fanatical ferment in the Hejaz could lead to violence and upheaval, potentially endangering the safety of Christians in Jeddah.
Keane’s narrative paints a picture of a region marked by complex power dynamics and simmering tensions. The Ottoman Empire’s rule, while maintaining control, faces significant challenges in winning the hearts and minds of the native population. Additionally, the presence of foreign Christians in a deeply Islamic society adds another layer of complexity to the socio-political landscape.
In conclusion, John Keane’s journey to the Hejaz offers a nuanced perspective on a region where tradition, religion, and politics intersect. The observations and insights he provides invite us to consider the multifaceted nature of this historically significant land, where the potential for future unrest looms amidst the deep-seated grievances of its people.