In the early 19th century, James Wellsted, an officer in the British Indian Navy, embarked on a series of exploratory journeys into the heart of Arabia, chronicling his experiences in the seminal work, “Travels in Arabia.” While travelling in Oman Wellsted’s encounters the Beni-Abu-‘Ali tribe, offering a window into a world where ancient traditions clash and blend with colonial interests. Through Wellsted’s eyes, we journey into the rugged landscapes of Oman, witness the fierce independence of the Beni-Abu-‘Ali, and explore the complex interplay of cultural, military, and personal narratives that define this period of Arabian and British history.
The Origins and Early History of the Beni-Abu-‘Ali
The narrative begins with the Beni-Abu-‘Ali tribe, whose roots are deeply entrenched in the arid expanses of Nejd. Their history is marked by a pivotal separation from Caliph Ali’s forces amidst the tumultuous battle for the Caliphate against Mowaiyah, illustrating their long-standing tradition of independence and resilience. This tribe experienced a significant transformation in 1811. Their conversion to the Wahhabi doctrine under the influence of Abdul Uziz’s invasion not only redefined their spiritual allegiance but also marked the beginning of a period of intense animosity from surrounding tribes in Oman.
Wellsted paints a picture of a tribe undeterred by external pressures, whose survival necessitated the construction of a formidable stronghold. This fortification not only symbolised their defiance but also facilitated a shift from a defensive posture to one of aggression. The tribe’s subsequent forays into neighbouring districts, armed with “fire and sword”, underscored their transition from beleaguered survivors to dominant aggressors. Their ascendancy culminated in the undisputed control over their own and several adjoining territories, showcasing their strategic acumen and martial prowess.
Several attempts were made by the Imam to dislodge or destroy them (Bani Bu Ali), but all his exertions proving ineffectual,
James Wellsted: Travels in Arabia
Bani Bu Ali Hospitality
James Wellsted’s personal interactions with the Beni-Abu-‘Ali tribe following their military encounters offer a profound insight into the aftermath of conflict and the resilience of human connections. Upon his arrival at their encampment, Wellsted is met with an unexpectedly warm reception, a testament to the tribe’s hospitality and their respect for the British, despite the recent brutal conflicts.
No sooner had I proclaimed myself an Englishman, and expressed my intention of passing a few days amidst them, than the whole camp was in a tumult of acclamation ;the few old guns they had were fired from the different towers, matchlocks were kept going till sunset, and both old and young, male and female, strove to do their best to entertain me
James Wellsted: Travels in Arabia
Wellsted’s recounting of his stay illuminates the social and cultural fabric of the Beni-Abu-‘Ali tribe. Their eagerness to entertain and accommodate him, as evidenced by the communal effort to pitch his tent and provide sustenance, reflects a deeply ingrained tradition of hospitality that transcends recent hostilities. The ruins of the fort, a stark reminder of the conflict, serve as the backdrop to this unexpected camaraderie, highlighting the tribe’s ability to reconcile with the past.
Before us lay the ruins of the fort we had dismantled,my tent was pitched on the very spot where we had nearly annihilated their tribe, reducing them from being the most powerful in Oman to their present petty state. All, however, in the confidence I had shown in thus throwing myself amidst them,was forgotten. Although so near the sea-coast, the Bedowins of this and the neighbouring districts have remained uncontaminated by any inter course with strangers, for they neither inter marry nor mix with them ; and there is, therefore, reason to believe that they preserve, in its strictest forms, all the simplicity and purity of the interior tribes.
James Wellsted: Travels in Arabia
The dialogue between Wellsted and the young Sheikh, alongside the tribe’s men, reveals a curious blend of admiration, curiosity, and scepticism towards European customs and religious beliefs. These exchanges, rich with cultural exchange and exploration, underscore the complexities of identity and belief systems when confronted with the ‘other.’ Wellsted’s strategic navigation through theological debates and his observations on the tribe’s reactions to European practices offer a nuanced perspective on cross-cultural interactions.
It is generally a good maxim to allow yourself to be apparently beaten on questions of theology : I could not, however, at first, resist the temptation of leading to some of their least defensible doctrines, and stating the arguments which could be brought to bear against them; but they evinced so little prejudice or fanaticism on these points that I regretted having done so, and, to make amends, most willingly subscribed to the opinion of one of their old men, that either faith was best adapted for the country and people who practised it.
James Wellsted: Travels in Arabia
Moreover, Wellsted’s insights into the tribe’s views on women and their societal roles contrast sharply with European norms. The tribe’s valorization of women’s influence within their community, juxtaposed with their traditional views on women’s public roles, presents a fascinating dichotomy. Wellsted’s candid account of these interactions, including the humorous yet telling discussions on European dining and social customs, paints a vivid picture of cultural diversity and the potential for understanding across divides.
Was it true, they inquired, that those of high birth and condition danced in public, and went unveiled? Here they had me on the hip, as they fancied; and the rogues chuckled whilst awaiting my reply. I confessed it was, but we did not, like them, attach any indelicacy to it ; that our females were never secluded, but were instructed in useful knowledge, and allowed equal liberty with the other sex, and that we found our advantage in doing so.
James Wellsted: Travels in Arabia
Cultural Insights and Personal Encounters
Wellsted’s engagement with the tribe’s customs, particularly the influential role of women, challenges prevalent stereotypes and offers a nuanced understanding of Bedouin society. Despite the apparent rigidity of gender roles, as evinced by the tribe’s traditional sayings about women’s and men’s spheres of activity, there exists a dynamic undercurrent of female agency. This dichotomy is further explored in the reaction of the tribe to European practices, where Wellsted notes a mixture of amusement and bafflement towards aspects of Western lifestyle, such as dining etiquette and the social freedoms afforded to women.
Their remarks on some of our customs were highly amusing. “We observed,” said they, “that when you sat down to table each man had before him a small and a large glass ; why apply to the small one so often when it would save so much trouble to fill the larger, and drink it off at once? Why did we send the ladies away before we had finished our wine, and yet rise up when they left? “
James Wellsted: Travels in Arabia
In summary, “Travels in Arabia” by James Wellsted provides a detailed and intricate examination of his experiences with the Beni-Abu-‘Ali tribe in Oman, making it a significant contribution to Oman travel literature. Wellsted’s travels across Arabia not only deepen our knowledge of the area’s past but also honor the essence of adventure and the meaningful interactions that arise when diverse cultures connect. This work stands out as a pivotal piece in the realm of Omani travel writing, showcasing the rich encounters between the explorer and the local inhabitants.