The indomitable spirit of Lady Hester Stanhope was not confined to her unorthodox travels and unconventional attire. In 1815, she embarked on a groundbreaking archaeological expedition that would leave an indelible mark on the history of exploration and diplomacy in the Middle East. Stanhope’s journey to the ruins of Ashkelon, a port city north of Gaza, was marked by a mission to uncover a hidden treasure, and it resulted in the first-ever archaeological excavation in Palestine. This tale is a testament to her unwavering determination, her unique approach to antiquity, and her commitment to diplomacy through archaeology.
The Discovery of a Mediaeval Manuscript
The catalyst for Lady Hester Stanhope’s extraordinary journey was a mediaeval Italian manuscript, acquired from Charles Meryon, her physician and later biographer. Copied from the records of a Syrian monastery, this document held a tantalising secret: a great treasure concealed beneath the ruins of a mosque in Ashkelon. The ruins had lain untouched for six centuries, concealing their enigmatic contents.
The Unconventional Excavation
In 1815, Lady Hester set her course for Ashkelon, with a mission to unearth the hidden treasure indicated by the mediaeval manuscript. With the support of the Ottoman authorities, she obtained permission to excavate the site. Accompanied by the governor of Jaffa, Muhammad Abu Nabbut, Lady Hester’s expedition marked the inaugural archaeological excavation in Palestine. Her excavation methods were pioneering for her time, and she was methodical and precise in her approach.
An Early Stratigraphic Analysis
One of the notable aspects of Lady Hester’s excavation was the stratigraphical analysis she conducted, a concept not widely known or used at the time. She and Charles Meryon correctly assessed the historical layers of the structure in Ashkelon. They proposed that the site had been a heathen temple in its earliest days, later transforming into a church and eventually a mosque, offering insight into the changing cultural landscape of the region.
The Quest for Hidden Treasures
While the fabled treasure remained elusive, Lady Hester and her team unearthed a headless marble statue. This discovery was of significant historical value, as it was the first Greco-Roman artefact ever excavated in the Holy Land. Charles Meryon believed it to be the statue of a “deified king,” perhaps one of the successors of Alexander the Great or even Herod himself. However, Lady Hester did not share Meryon’s antiquarian enthusiasm.
An Act of Diplomacy Through Destruction
The fate of the headless statue serves as a testament to Lady Hester Stanhope’s commitment to diplomacy through archaeology. In an act that might seem perplexing to modern observers, she ordered the statue to be smashed into countless pieces and cast into the sea. This act was not an act of carelessness but rather a gesture of goodwill to the Ottoman government. It was meant to demonstrate that her excavation was focused on recovering valuable treasures for the Ottoman Sultan and not on the looting of cultural relics for shipment back to Europe.
The Uniqueness of Stanhope’s Palestine Excavation
Lady Hester Stanhope’s excavation stood as a unique and valuable contribution to the history of archaeological exploration in the Holy Land. Her motivations were not fueled by personal greed but rather by a desire to elevate the region she had come to call home. She was determined to demonstrate that her excavation was a diplomatic endeavour. Her meticulously recorded methods and the deliberate destruction of the statue were uncommon techniques for her time, earning her excavation the distinction of being the “first modern excavation in the history of archaeological exploration in the Holy Land.”
Legacy and Paving the Way
Beyond her archaeological contributions, Lady Hester Stanhope’s expedition had a lasting impact. It laid the foundation for future excavations and the emergence of tourism at the Ashkelon site. Her unwavering commitment to diplomacy and her pioneering approach to archaeology left a remarkable legacy that extended far beyond the confines of her time.
The later years of Lady Hester Stanhope’s life unfolded as a chapter of solitude and intrigue in the hills of Lebanon. Her remarkable journey, marked by adventures and diplomatic endeavours, led her to a remote existence as the de facto ruler of a region and to a life shrouded in mystery. Her reclusive years near Sidon in Lebanon bear witness to a complex blend of authority, enigmatic persona, and dwindling isolation, culminating in her eventual passing in 1839.
Seeking Solitude in Sidon
After a lifetime of remarkable travels and pioneering archaeological expeditions, Lady Hester Stanhope sought solace near Sidon, a town on the Mediterranean coast, nestled between Tyre and Beirut. Her initial residence was the disused Mar Elias monastery in the village of Abra, which she later exchanged for the tranquillity of another monastery, Deir Mashmousheh, located southwest of the Casa of Jezzine.
Companions in Isolation
During her sojourn, Lady Hester was accompanied by two steadfast companions: Miss Williams and Dr. Charles Meryon, her medical attendant. Miss Williams shared her reclusive existence, and Dr. Meryon attended to her health and served as her confidant. Their presence provided Lady Hester with human connection amid the solitude of the Lebanese hills. However, the passage of time brought change.
Parting and Reunion
In 1828, the circle of companionship was disrupted as Miss Williams passed away. Then, in 1831, Dr. Meryon departed for England. His return occurred only for a brief visit that spanned from July 1837 to August 1838, offering a temporary reunion in Lady Hester’s isolated world. The precious moments of togetherness were, no doubt, cherished.
The Hilltop Residence
Following Dr. Meryon’s final departure for England, Lady Hester moved once again, choosing a remote and abandoned monastery situated in Joun, a village eight miles from Sidon. Her new dwelling, known to the villagers as Dahr El Sitt, occupied a commanding position atop a hill. This strategic vantage point was indicative of the intriguing character of her final years.
Rise to Unofficial Authority
Initially welcomed by Emir Bashir Shihab II, Lady Hester Stanhope’s presence evolved over the years. She offered sanctuary to hundreds of refugees entangled in Druze inter-clan and inter-religious conflicts, which earned her the enmity of Emir Bashir. In this new setting, she exercised almost absolute authority over the surrounding districts, effectively becoming the region’s ruler. Her control was a result of both her commanding character and the local belief that she possessed the gift of divination.
The Power of Isolation
Lady Hester’s isolation enabled her to exercise a unique form of power and diplomacy. In 1832, when Ibrahim Pasha prepared to invade Syria, he recognized the importance of securing her neutrality. Her reclusive authority and mystical aura were factors that weighed heavily in political considerations, attesting to the extraordinary impact of her isolation.
The Fading Years
The passing of time saw Lady Hester’s circumstances change. Suffering from mounting debts, she utilised her pension from England to pay off her creditors in Syria. Yet, in the mid-1830s, she began to withdraw ever further from the world. Her reclusive state led to thefts by her own servants, who took advantage of her inability to manage her household. Questions arose regarding her mental state; some speculated severe depression or premature senility. Her growing isolation was evident, as she would only receive visitors after dark and would grant them glimpses of her hands and face, often concealing her shaven head under a turban.
The Enigmatic Passing
Lady Hester Stanhope’s enigmatic journey reached its conclusion when she passed away in her sleep in 1839. Her passing was marked by destitution, and subsequent investigations revealed the absence of any significant wealth in her residence. Her isolation, once a symbol of her enigmatic authority, now stood as a testament to a life lived in the hills of Lebanon, far from the glittering world she had once traversed.
Legacy of Solitude
While her passing marked the end of an extraordinary life, Lady Hester’s legacy endured. Her unique journey in the Lebanese hills left a lasting impact, underscoring the power of isolation, diplomacy, and enigmatic persona. Her influence, a blend of authority and mystique, remains etched in the annals of history, a testament to a life lived on her own terms.