In 1913, amidst the shifting sands of the Middle East, the intrepid traveller, scholar, and diplomat Gertrude Bell embarked on an extraordinary journey. Her odyssey commenced in the ancient city of Damascus and took her on a mesmerising trajectory, venturing southward into the heart of Saudi Arabia, specifically Hail. From this sun-scorched oasis, she continued her expedition through the sands and secrets of Arabia to reach Baghdad. Yet, it is not the entire odyssey we aim to recount here, but rather a focus on a particular jewel of her travels – her sojourn in Kerbela. Within this ancient city, the cradle of sacred history and an epicentre of the Muslim world, Bell’s observant eye captured the essence of her experiences, and it is these reflections that we shall unfold in the passages that follow.
The Desert’s Maritime Symphony
As Gertrude Bell embarked on her desert sojourn from Kerbela to Baghdad in 1913, her travelogue unveiled a captivating comparison. She likened this terrestrial expedition through the sun-scorched dunes to the experience of setting sail across the boundless sea. The sweeping desert sands, seemingly eternal and unyielding, bore a curious resemblance to the infinite expanse of the ocean’s horizon, where the passage of time was concealed by the ceaseless tides. Underneath the merciless sun’s gaze, the journey unfolded with each day resembling the last, much like the repetition of dawn and dusk at sea. Daylight surrendered to the tranquil cloak of night, only for the break of day to bring forth another indistinguishable morning. The relentless, unchanging environment lent an air of timeless continuity to this desert traverse.
However, just as a sea voyage, however monotonous, eventually touches upon distant shores, so too did Bell’s desert journey. After days of relentless wandering, they encountered the terra firma of their destination, where the persistent repetition gave way to the transformation of the entire universe. The sands of Kerbela bore witness to a history as ancient and profound as the oceans themselves, replete with the echoes of early Islamic struggles and the heroic tale of Hussein, son of ‘Ali ibn abi Talib.
The golden dome of Hussein, shrouding the sacred relics and offerings, stood as a testament to the reverence bestowed upon this historic site. This city, eternally tethered to the early days of Islam, had stood witness to the founding and subsequent decline of imperial Islam. In a world whose very foundation was laid within the confines of these timeless lands, the march of empires and the ebb and flow of cultures had left their mark. And as Bell gazed upon the unchanging face of the desert, she recognized the heart of a region where history and faith converged, forever etching their stories into the landscape.
Gertrude Bell Arrives in Kerbela
As Gertrude Bell ventured further into Kerbela, she found herself immersed in the enchanting tapestry of the local culture. The city’s welcoming embrace unfolded before her, unveiling a world rich in flavours and fragrances. The first sensation that graced her palate was the delightful taste of oranges and sweet lemons. Kerbela’s markets, bursting with an abundance of these luscious fruits, enticed her to partake in their succulence. The refreshing tang of citrus offered a reprieve from the desert’s arid embrace, leaving a lasting impression on her memory. With every bite, she savoured the essence of this sun-soaked oasis, where the generosity of the land was expressed in its juicy bounty.
“The oranges were good at Kerbela… The shops were heaped with them and with pale sweet lemons: I fear I must have astonished my military escort, for I stopped at every corner to buy more and yet more, and ate them as I went along the streets, hoping to satisfy the inextinguishable thirst born of the desert.”
Amurath to Amurath by Gertrude Bell
Yet, it was not only the flavours of Kerbela that captivated her senses; it was the sight of mountains of pink roses that held an even more profound significance. These delicate blossoms, their petals meticulously harvested and meticulously arranged, adorned every corner of the town. In the hands of its inhabitants, these roses became tokens of joy and comfort, carried by people from all walks of life. As they strolled along Kerbela’s sunlit streets, its citizens would clutch these fragrant treasures, bringing them to their noses to partake in their sweet and soothing scent. For these roses, whether offered as tokens of love or as silent companions on a daily pilgrimage, were a silent yet poignant testimony to the vitality of the culture and faith that thrived within the city’s walls.
However, cultural immersion wasn’t confined to the tantalising flavours and aromatic roses alone. Gertrude Bell was invited to partake in a Persian dinner, a culinary experience that would linger in her memory. The table was adorned with dishes showcasing the artistry of Persian cuisine. Among them, a succulent lamb stuffed with pistachios beckoned, promising a delightful fusion of flavours and textures. The evening’s refreshment came in the form of sherbet, served in deep wooden spoons, a gesture of hospitality and warmth that resonated deeply within the traveller’s heart. Here, within the confines of a Persian household, Bell witnessed the culinary expertise and graciousness that reflected the true essence of Kerbela’s culture, leaving her with a profound understanding of the city’s enduring traditions.
Political Currents and Challenges
While Gertrude Bell’s time in Kerbela allowed her to savour the city’s cultural richness, it also provided her with a unique vantage point to observe the intricate web of political currents that swirled through the region. The notion of implementing constitutional government in ‘Irak (Iraq) was a topic of great debate and challenge. As the modern era beckoned, it encountered resistance from those who held sway over the region, most notably the property owners and officials. Their reluctance to accept the winds of change was palpable, for they had amassed their wealth through the mechanisms of force and oppression. The titles and deeds that underpinned their possessions were fragile, unable to withstand the scrutiny of the newly emerged local press.
In the heart of Kerbela, where faith and history intertwined, the judiciary bore the brunt of the shifting political landscape. Judges, tasked with upholding the principles of the law, grappled with paltry salaries that scarcely afforded them a dignified existence. Their meagre income left them vulnerable to the temptation of bribes, as they sought ways to augment their earnings to ensure their future employment prospects. The struggle for financial security became a relentless battle, a precarious path navigated in the shadow of their superiors and the harsh realities of a crumbling empire.
Navigating Nature’s Intricacies
In the midst of Kerbela’s vibrant cultural tapestry and political discourse, Gertrude Bell could not ignore the geographical and environmental intricacies that played a significant role in shaping the region’s destiny. The Hindiyeh swamp loomed as a formidable geographical challenge, a feature as prominent and enigmatic as any on the traveller’s journey. This sprawling expanse of wetlands, a product of the Euphrates River’s serpentine course, became a central character in the drama of ‘Irak (Iraq). The swamp, which had persisted since the time of the Sassanian kings, was a stark reminder of nature’s indomitable forces.
However, the Hindiyeh swamp was not just a natural marvel but also a source of contention and dispute. Bell witnessed a simmering disagreement between an Indian landowner and the mutesarrif, the local official, concerning the swamp’s management and its impact on the region. The Indian landowner, seeking to alleviate the environmental challenges, had taken it upon himself to manage the dykes, sparing the town from the threat of flooding and saving the cultivated lands. Yet, as the swamp expanded, its burden grew, leading the landowner to reconsider his commitment. The dispute with the mutesarrif brought to light the complexities surrounding the region’s ecological equilibrium and the responsibilities that came with it.
The consequences of the swamp’s unchecked growth extended far beyond mere property disputes. The expansion of the Hindiyeh swamp bore dire repercussions, resulting in the loss of cultivated lands, the inundation of homes, and the disarray of lives. Fields that once yielded bountiful harvests now lay submerged, their potential stolen by the relentless swamp waters. The very essence of the land, so diligently cultivated by the people of Kerbela, was imperilled by this environmental menace. The city itself faced the spectre of inundation, as the river’s capricious flow left it vulnerable to the unforgiving waters. The Hindiyeh swamp, with its ever-expanding boundaries, had become an unpredictable neighbour, shaping the destinies of those who called Kerbela home.
Amid the timeless sands of Kerbela, Bell’s journey was imbued with the awareness that nature’s intricate forces, often unnoticed, held a profound sway over the region’s destiny. The Hindiyeh swamp, with its paradoxical beauty and perilous consequences, served as a poignant reminder of the delicate balance between human existence and the unforgiving terrain.
Pilgrimage’s Profound Currents
As Gertrude Bell embarked on her exploration of Kerbela, she was not alone in her journey. The city’s profound cultural and religious significance attracted a constant flow of pilgrims, notably Persian pilgrims, who made the arduous trek to the sacred city. These devoted travellers, men, women, and children, embarked on a pilgrimage that held a special place in the hearts of every pious Persian. It was their fervent wish to make the pilgrimage to Kerbela at least once in their lifetime, a testament to the city’s enduring allure. Yet, the pilgrimage did not end with their earthly journey; it was believed that even after death, their bodies should find a final resting place in the hallowed soil near Hussein’s grave, ensuring an eternal connection with the holy city.
The Persian community, firmly rooted in the heart of ‘Irak, held a pivotal role in shaping the region’s political landscape. With their wealth, influence, and the security afforded to them by the Turkish government, this community often found itself in a unique position. Gertrude Bell observed that the Persian community was not content with mere observation; it sought to exert influence and even dictate terms to the struggling factions in Persia. Their sanctuary in the Ottoman Empire provided them with a vantage point to compare and contrast governance, and the verdict was clear—the Turkish administration, in all its imperfections, represented a standard of tranquillity and equity far superior to the turbulence and chaos that pervaded their homeland.
The Persian community’s ability to influence and provide counsel to Persia’s political factions underscored their pivotal role in regional politics. As their voices resonated across the borderlands, it was evident that the connections between ‘Irak and Persia ran deeper than geography. These cultural currents flowed strongly, nurturing bonds of faith, tradition, and influence that transcended the boundaries of nations. In the heart of Kerbela, Gertrude Bell bore witness to the timeless pilgrimage and the far-reaching impact of cultural connections that left an indelible mark on the region’s history and destiny.