In the long narrative of human experience, there exist remarkable individuals whose passion for the unknown, their relentless pursuit of knowledge, and their unyielding commitment to exploration have left a significant mark on the world. Gertrude Bell, a name that resonates with the echoes of adventure and scholarly curiosity, was one such luminary. Born in 1868, she defied the conventions of her era and ventured into the heart of Arabia during the early 20th century, a time when the vast deserts and ancient landscapes held mysteries that piqued her insatiable appetite for Middle Eastern archaeology.
Gertrude Bell’s journey to Northern Arabia in 1913 is an enduring testament to her remarkable spirit of inquiry. While her fellow countrymen remained largely disinterested in the history of this region, especially anything that occurred after the fall of the Roman Empire, Gertrude Bell charted a course into the uncharted territories, determined to unearth the secrets concealed within the sands of time.
Leaving Damascus
On the crisp morning of December 16, 1913, against a backdrop of the ancient city of Damascus, Gertrude Bell embarked on an expedition that would take her into the heart of Northern Arabia. Her primary objective was unequivocal: to explore the archaeological wonders that lay concealed beneath the shifting dunes and rocky terrain.
Gertrude Bell was acutely aware that her voyage would be fraught with challenges. The Arabian desert is a formidable adversary, and its unforgiving landscape is replete with obstacles. Water was scarce, and the terrain was a labyrinth of stony tracts, a stern reminder of the arduousness of her quest. However, undeterred by these adversities, Gertrude Bell pressed onward, driven by a determination that knew no bounds.
Gertrude Bell’s Archaeological Odyssey
Southeast of Damascus, amidst the arid and unforgiving landscape, Gertrude Bell embarked on her archaeological mission. Ruins that had not seen the light of scrutiny in generations were her first destination. The sun-baked stones bore silent witness to a history that beckoned her, and she approached them with a keen eye and an inquisitive mind.
At a place she identifies as Jebel Sais, she undertook an endeavour of unique significance. Here, within the bounds of early Islamic architecture, she meticulously re-planned the buildings that had stood for centuries. Each stone and pillar, every arch and wall, whispered secrets from a distant past. Gertrude Bell, with her unwavering dedication, sought to decipher their stories.
The journey continued to Burqa, a place with a forgotten history. Here, Gertrude Bell made a significant discovery – inscriptions, one in Greek and another in Kufic script. These inscriptions provided valuable insights into the past, shedding light on the people and cultures that once thrived in this remote area. Based on the inscriptions it would appear that this was an early Islamic building on the site of a much older one, a theme that would repeat on her travels.
Qasr al-Azraq, a fort nestled amidst the desert’s solitude, revealed itself to her in a form she had not anticipated. Roman ruins, initially believed to be the dominant historical narrative, had been overtaken by an Arab castle. Gertrude Bell’s discerning eye detected the subtle transformations that time had wrought upon these stones, rewriting the architectural history that lay buried beneath layers of civilization.
In her relentless quest for knowledge, she revisited Qsair Amrah and Kharaneh, conducting meticulous architectural studies. These structures, of the highest significance to students of early Islamic arts, bore testimony to the cultural heritage of the land. Their intricacies and designs spoke of a people who had left their mark upon the earth, and Gertrude Bell sought to immortalise their memory through her scholarly endeavours.
Qusayr ‘Amra, nestled in the desert landscape of Jordan, is a captivating archaeological gem that unlocks the secrets of the Umayyad era. This early Islamic desert palace, known for its distinctive frescoes, offers a unique window into the past. Its well-preserved bathhouse and audience hall are adorned with remarkable artwork, featuring vibrant frescoes that depict not only the Umayyad rulers and their opulent lifestyle but also hunting scenes, daily life, and celestial imagery. These frescoes are considered invaluable for understanding the art, culture, and societal dynamics of the early Islamic period. Inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Qusayr ‘Amra stands as a testament to the Umayyad legacy and serves as a compelling destination for modern-day travellers eager to immerse themselves in the rich history and artistry of this remarkable era.
Kharaneh, located in the eastern desert region of Jordan, is an archaeological site of historical significance. Approximately 25 kilometers (about 15.5 miles) to the southeast of Qusayr ‘Amra, Kharaneh belongs to the early Islamic period, specifically the Umayyad era. The site features remnants of early Islamic structures, offering a window into the architectural and cultural achievements of that time. Visitors to Kharaneh can explore these structures, which are emblematic of the Umayyad architectural style, providing valuable insights into the historical and cultural landscape of the region during this period.
The Hejaz railway took her to Zizia, where she hoped to pick up not only letters but also the threads of history. Though momentarily halted by the Ottoman Government, her persuasive explanations opened the path ahead. She left her assurance that her safety was her responsibility, for she was undeterred in her quest to unravel the secrets of the past.
Finally, the journey led her to Tubah and Bir Ba’ir, where her diligent work continued. Tubah, with its historical significance from the first century after hijrah, was a chapter in the chronicle of this land’s rich history. It was an exploration of the roots of culture, as Gertrude Bell examined the tomb of the traditional ancestor of the Beni Sakhr and the sacrificial rites observed by the tribe.
Bir Ba’ir, visited by her compatriot Mr. Alexander Carrathers but documented by none, became a vital stop on her journey. It was a testament to her meticulous dedication to her craft. Her exploration was not merely a physical endeavor; it was a journey into the depths of time, seeking to piece together the fragments of history that lay hidden in the sands of Arabia.
Gertrude Bell’s Geological Observations
Gertrude Bell’s journey through Northern Arabia was not just an exploration of history and culture; it was also an adventure through diverse and challenging landscapes that define the region’s natural beauty. Her observations on geography would later become indispensable to military planners during WWI. One of the significant phases of her journey was the crossing of the Nefud desert, a vast expanse of arid terrain known for its formidable challenges. The Nefud, a true desert wilderness, greeted her with deep horseshoes of sand that she had to navigate skillfully, a testament to her determination in the face of nature’s obstacles.
Further into her expedition, Gertrude Bell delved into the geological wonders of Jebel Misma and Jebel Habran. These sandstone formations, sculpted by centuries of erosion, showcased a unique and mesmerising beauty. Their incredibly distinctive shapes and features left an indelible impression on the explorer, reminding her of the forces that shape the Earth’s surface.
Jebel Rakham marked a striking transition from sandstone to granite formations, introducing her to the geological diversity of the Arabian landscapes. This shift in the earth’s composition added to the richness of her journey, offering her the chance to witness first-hand the intricate work of nature.
The transition from granite to the Jauf road and the arrival at Hayil represented both a geological and geographical transformation. The rocky terrain gave way to a more defined road, leading to the town of Hayil. This shift was a vivid illustration of the ever-changing landscapes that Gertrude Bell encountered on her extraordinary journey.
In the Heart of Shammar: Gertrude Bell’s Sojourn in Hayil
During her remarkable journey through Northern Arabia, Gertrude Bell found herself spending eleven days in the heart of the Shammar capital, Hayil. Her stay coincided with the absence of the Amir of Shammar, who was away on a raid. This period of her journey allowed her to gain unique insights into the complex political and social landscape of the region.
While in Hayil, Gertrude Bell navigated a delicate balance of limited liberty, granted to her by the representatives of the Amir. Though she may not have enjoyed unrestricted freedom, she observed no signs of hostility from the town’s inhabitants. Instead, she found herself welcomed with amicable curiosity, underscoring the respect and inquisitiveness that characterised her interactions with the local population.
Gertrude Bell’s time in Hayil offered a window into the changing political dynamics of the region. The authority of the Rashid family, who had traditionally held sway over the Shammar territory, was diminishing. This shift in power dynamics was a reflection of the internal and external challenges that had beset the Rashid rulers.
A notable figure rising in prominence during this period was Ibn Sa’ud, a name that would become synonymous with the central Arabian political landscape. While Gertrude Bell was in Hayil, she bore witness to the ascension of Ibn Sa’ud’s influence, which would shape the course of Arabian history.
However, the political complexities of Hayil were not without their share of strife. The region was marked by internal conflicts and assassinations, illustrating the tumultuous nature of the political scene. Palace revolutions and power struggles had taken a toll on the Rashid family, and the consequences of these upheavals were felt throughout the city.
Gertrude Bell’s sojourn in Hayil provided a front-row seat to the intricate web of politics and power in Northern Arabia. Her observations during those eleven days shed light on the shifting tides of authority and the rise of new figures in the region, serving as a valuable record of the ever-evolving political landscape during her time.
Gertrude Bell’s Return Journey and Unearthed Traces
Continuing from Hayil, her path led her through Hayyaniyyeh and the wells of Loqah. As she ventured forth, she encountered difficulties with Shia tribes on what is today the Iraq-Saudi border, or the Ottoman Wilayat of Basra as it was in her day. This underscores the complex and sometimes precarious nature of travel through these territories.
The return to Damascus was a journey across the Syrian desert from the direction of Baghdad, where the vast and seemingly endless expanse of sand concealed secrets of ancient settlements. In the Qa’rah bottom, Gertrude Bell uncovered traces of past habitations, offering glimpses into the historical tapestry of the region.
As she followed a road that passed within sight of Palmyra, a city steeped in antiquity, Gertrude Bell noted its historical resonance. The road was believed to be of mediaeval origin, and the significance of its route hinted at the enduring importance of Palmyra throughout the ages.
The final leg of her journey revealed Roman roads, marked by ancient milestones, that meandered through the mountains to Dumair. These well-preserved remnants of ancient infrastructure were symbols of the Roman Empire’s influence and reach, and they marked the passage of time through the rugged terrain.
Gertrude Bell’s return journey was not just a way back home; it was an opportunity for further exploration and discovery. The challenges she encountered and the traces of history she unearthed served as a reminder of the layers of civilization that had left their mark on these landscapes, a testament to the enduring allure of Northern Arabia’s rich history and diverse geography.