In the early 20th century, Gertrude Bell, a renowned traveller and writer, explored the Middle Eastern landscapes with a keen eye for detail and a deep appreciation for the region’s rich history and diverse cultures. One of her notable observations was centred around the village of Salt, located in modern day Jordan, a thriving community nestled in a landscape famous for its grapes and apricots. Bell paints a vivid picture of Salt as a prosperous community of over 10,000 souls, half of whom were Christians, residing in a region whose agricultural prowess was lauded as far back as the 14th century by the Arab geographer Abu’l Fida.
Key Takeaways
- Salt is a culturally and agriculturally rich community with a deep historical background.
- Bedouin tribes exhibit complex social structures and a strong sense of community.
- The region is dotted with ancient ruins, indicating a rich historical past.
- Sites like Kastal and Ziza offer insights into the Roman Empire’s presence in the region.
This area is significant for its agricultural as well as historical and religious importance. Bell notes the presence of a ruined castle perched on a hill above Salt, its origins shrouded in mystery to Bell although believed to date back to the 13th Century Ayyubid dynasty. The local tradition among the inhabitants suggests that Salt holds an ancient legacy, a claim supported by the Christian community’s belief that it was one of the first congregations of their faith. Adding to this rich tapestry of history and belief is a fascinating legend suggesting that Christ Himself evangelised in Salt, a testament to the deep-rooted religious narratives that intertwine with the town’s history.
The Expanding Landscape
Bell’s journey through Salt and its surroundings reveals a landscape undergoing significant transformation, both culturally and agriculturally. As she rode through the valley with her host Habib, a local who took pride in his share of the apricot orchards and vineyards, Bell observed the tangible signs of prosperity and expansion. The narrator commends the industriousness and intelligence of the Christians in Salt and nearby Madeba, noting their successful extension of cultivation by a considerable distance to the east over a span of just five years.
This rapid agricultural development did not go unnoticed by the higher echelons of power. The opening of the Hajj railway through this fertile land caught the attention of the Sultan, who saw the potential wealth it could bring. Bell mentions the Sultan’s plans to convert a vast tract of land to a royal farm. This move by the Sultan is portrayed as a strategic one, aiming to harness the richness of the land for his benefit and that of his tenants. Bell, while recognising the Sultan as an indifferent ruler, credits him with being a good landlord, a subtle nod to the complex relationships between local communities and the ruling authorities.
The Christians of Salt and of Madeba are an intelligent and an industrious race, worthy to be praised. During the five years since I had visited this district they bad pushed forward the limit of cultivation two hours’ ride to the east, and proved the value of the land so conclusively that when the Hajj railway was opened through it the Sultan laid hands on a great tract stretching as far south as Ma’an* intending to convert it into a chifllik, a royal farm.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
The Natural Beauty of the Surrounding Valleys
Gertrude Bell’s account transitions from the bustling activity of Salt to the serene and almost untouched landscapes that surround it. Accompanied by Yusef, a robust man armed with a traditional wooden club known as a Gunwa, Bell ventures through wide, treeless valleys, described as uninhabited and barely cultivated. This journey takes them around the head of the Belqa plain and past the entrance to the Wadi Sir, a route through oak woods leading to the Ghor.
Bell’s appreciation for the natural environment is palpable. She laments the impact of charcoal burners on the growth of trees, observing the many dwarf thickets of oak and thorn they pass. Yet, Bell expresses a desire for the landscape to remain unchanged, untouched by the advancements of agriculture and civilisation. She envisages a future where these uplands are transformed into cultivated lands dotted with villages, an idea that she greets with a mixture of acceptance and melancholy. For her, these regions represent a perfect embodiment of a line from Omar Khayyam, describing the narrow strip that divides the desert from the sown, a place of tranquillity and natural beauty.
With me along the strip of Herbage strown That just divides the desert from the sown, Where name of Slave and Sultan is forgot And Peace to Mahmud on his golden Throne!
Omar Khayyam: The Rubiayat
Local Bedouin Tribes
Bell’s narrative takes an intriguing turn as she delves into the complex social structure of the Bedouin tribes in the region. She draws a clear distinction between the terms Bedouin and Arab, noting that in the desert, the tent-dwellers are referred to as ‘Arab (emphasising the guttural pronunciation), as opposed to the general term Bedouin. Bell also touches upon the unique nomenclature of their dwellings, often simply called “houses,” a term that intriguingly encompasses even those living in tents, reflecting the Bedouins’ supreme disregard for the conventional understanding of a house.
To the Arabs. In the desert there are no Bedouin, the tent dwellers are ‘Arab (with a fine roll of the initial guttural), just as there are no tents but houses—“ houses of hair ” they say sometimes if a qualification be needed, but usually just “houses ” with a supreme disregard for any other significance to the word save that of a black goat’s hair roof.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
The tribes of Abadeh, Da’ja, Hassaniyyeh are mentioned as part of the larger group known as the ‘Adwan. Bell discusses the rivalry for desert supremacy between the Beni Sakhr and the ‘Anazeh tribes, with a traditional friendship, albeit marred by regrettable incidents, existing between the Sukhur and the Belka.
I do not know the ’Anazeh, for their usual seat in winter is nearer the Euphrates, but with all deference to the Sukhur I fancy that their rivals are the true aristocracy of the desert. Their ruling house, the Beni Sha’alan, bear the proudest name, and their mares are the best in all Arabia, so that even the Shammar, Ibn er Rashid’s people, seek after them to improve their own breed.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Bell shares her personal experiences with these tribes, including a meeting with a son of Talal al Faiz, the head of the Beni Sakhr. She recalls an encounter where the imposing presence of a Circassian soldier subdued the otherwise menacing horsemen of the tribe. This anecdote serves to illustrate the complex interplay of power and respect among different groups in the region.
Bell’s journey through the Middle Eastern landscape included an exploration of the region’s rich archaeological heritage. She describes various ruins scattered across the landscape, evidencing a once populous and flourishing past. One significant site is Birket Umm el ’Amud, notable for its large tank and the legend of a column that once stood within it, tragically destroyed by an Arab’s shot. Another key site is Amereh, covered with the remnants of a bygone era, and Yadudeh, known for its rock-hewn tombs and sarcophagi.
These ancient remnants tell stories of a vibrant history, dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries when Madeba was a prosperous Christian city, although some ruins might be even older. Bell’s narrative provides a captivating account of the frontier of the desert, scattered with vestiges of a populous past. This historical landscape is not just an archaeological treasure trove but also a testament to the region’s diverse cultural and religious history.
The Desert’s Harsh Beauty and Bedouin Hospitality
Gertrude Bell experiences the harsh yet captivating beauty of the desert and the unique customs of its inhabitants. Her journey through the desert is marked by challenging weather conditions, including mist and rain, which significantly impact her plans.
A notable encounter occurs when Bell visits Namrud’s cave, seeking shelter from the inclement weather. This visit offers a vivid portrayal of Bedouin hospitality and lifestyle. The cave, extending deep into the hill of Tneib, serves as a communal space for the Sukhur tribesmen, who have sought refuge from the rain. Bell describes a primitive and wild scene: men in red leather boots and striped cloaks gathered around a fire, cooking pots, and cattle feeding in rock-hewn mangers. The conversation among the Bedouins, laden with complaints about the government’s injustices, reveals the tensions between the desert dwellers and the Ottoman authorities.
The arm of the law, or rather the mailed fist of misrule, is a constant menace upon the edges of the desert. This year it had been quickened to baleful activity by the necessities of war. Camels and mares had been commandeered wholesale along the borders without hope of compensation in money or in kind.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Explorations Amidst Ruins
Gertrude Bell’s exploration extends to various archaeological sites, each narrating a different chapter of history. Among these is the mound of Tneib, where Bell and her companions unearth a collection of Roman coins, some dating back to the reign of Constantine. These discoveries speak volumes about the historical significance of the region, suggesting a thriving community up until the Arab invasion.
Bell’s journey also leads her to Khureibet es Suk, where she meticulously examines a temple and a mausoleum. Her detailed descriptions of the architecture, including the decorative elements and structural layouts, reflect her profound appreciation for historical craftsmanship.
This part of Bell’s narrative is particularly telling of the transient nature of human endeavours. The ruins, once part of bustling cities and vibrant communities, now lie as silent witnesses to a bygone era. Bell’s reflections on these sites encapsulate a sense of wonder mixed with a poignant acknowledgment of the inexorable passage of time and the inevitable changes it brings.
Discoveries and Reflections at Kastal and Ziza
Gertrude Bell’s journey also takes her to Kastal, a fortified Roman camp, exemplifying the intricate military architecture of the Roman Empire’s eastern frontiers. Bell describes the camp’s structure in detail, noting its strong enclosing walls, the single gate to the east, and the round bastions. Inside, she observes a series of parallel vaulted chambers and a separate building, likely the Praetorium. The detailed descriptions of the architecture, including the decorative triglyphs, reflect Bell’s deep interest in the historical and archaeological significance of these sites.
This exploration of Kastal is juxtaposed with her visit to Ziza, a site of extensive ruins indicating the presence of a once-great city. Bell suggests a connection between Ziza and Kastal, with the former possibly being the city guarded by the latter. The extensive foundations at Ziza imply a bustling urban centre, further enriched by Bell’s mention of a Roman tank, a vital resource for the Sukhur tribe.
Gertrude Bell intricately intertwines the historical, cultural, and natural facets of the region into a rich narrative. Her detailed depictions found in the books of Gertrude Bell, featuring the village of Salt with its sprawling apricot orchards, ancient ruins, and the nomadic Bedouin tribes, bring to life a landscape deeply rooted in history and tradition. Through her perspective, we are introduced to a realm where the past and present blend seamlessly, where the remnants of ancient civilizations echo amidst contemporary agricultural growth and the enduring ways of tribal existence.
FAQ
Q: What is the significance of Salt in Bell’s narrative?
A: Salt is portrayed as a community rich in history, agriculture, and culture, with a deep Christian heritage.
Q: How does Bell describe the landscape surrounding Salt?
A: The surrounding landscape is depicted as naturally beautiful, largely untouched, and serene.
Q: What are some key characteristics of the Bedouin tribes according to Bell?
A: Bell notes their complex social structures, strong community bonds, and unique cultural practices.
Q: What role do ancient ruins play in Bell’s journey?
A: They provide insights into the region’s historical richness and past civilizations.
Q: How does Bell view the interaction between modernity and historical preservation?
A: She acknowledges the challenges of balancing modern agricultural expansion with the need to preserve historical sites.
Q: What impact does weather have on Bell’s travels in the desert?
A: Weather challenges, like rain and mist, necessitate adaptability and impact travel plans.
Q: How are Kastal and Ziza significant in Bell’s exploration?
A: They offer archaeological insights into the Roman Empire’s influence and the historical landscape of the region.