Gertrude Bell, a renowned traveler and writer, takes us on a captivating journey through the heart of Damascus in her book “The Desert and The Sown“. Through her vivid descriptions and personal encounters, Bell provides a unique insight into the local culture, society, and political climate of this vibrant city in the Near East.
Gertrude Bell’s books are known for their detailed accounts of her travels and encounters with prominent figures, shedding light on the complexities of the regions she explored. In “The Desert and The Sown”, Bell’s narrative offers a compelling glimpse into her interactions with key local figures in Damascus and her reflections on the socio-political landscape of the period.
Bell’s Interaction with Prominent Local Figures
Upon her arrival in Damascus, Gertrude Bell paid her first visit to Amir ‘Abdullah Pasha, son of ’Abd ul Kadir, the great Algerian resistance leader. Her account reveals that the Amir lived in proximity to his brother, stressing the close-knit familial structure prevalent within the local social fabric. This visit allowed Bell the opportunity to experience firsthand the nuances of domestic life in the city, shaping her understanding of Damascene culture.
Bell further extended her interactions to include a meeting with Amir Tahir, ‘Abdullah’s nephew. Her interaction with Tahir provided a riveting narrative of personal and political dynamics within the family. Tahir facilitated an encounter with Sheikh Tahir ul Jezairi, a known scholar and political enthusiast. This presented Bell a dynamic picture of the intellectual and political leanings within the domestic circles of Damascus. Jezairi, being vocally active in the socio-political sphere of the region, introduced Bell to the throbbing pulse of Syrian activism.
my arrival was greeted with satisfaction because there happened to be staying with them a distinguished guest whom I should doubiless like to see. He was a certain Sheikh Tahir ul Jezairi, a man much renowned for his learning
and for his tempestuous and revolutionary politics. Sum- moned hastily into the divanned and carpeted upper room
in which we were sitting, he entered like a whirlwind, and establishing himself by my side poured into my ear, and into all other ears in the vicinity, for he spoke loud, his distress at not being permitted by the Vali to associate freely with gifted foreigners such as the American archaeologists or even myself (“ God forbid ! ” I murmured modestly), and a great many other grievances besides.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
In a departure from the familial sphere, a confidential project discussion took place between ‘Abdullah, Tahir and Bell. Although details of this project remain undisclosed in Bell’s narrative, the implied confidentiality lends an intriguing layer to her account. The nature of this cooperation, however, suggests the trust and respect that Bell had earned among the local leading figures.
Adding diversity to her documented interactions in Damascus, Bell also had an exchange with Mustafa Pasha el Barazi, hail from one of the leading families of Hamah. Her account implies that their conversation enabled her to deepen her understanding of the intricate web of relationships connecting the influential families in the Syrian landscape.
Bell’s visit to Mustafa el Asba’i, the famous scribe of Damascus, was a significant highlight of her narrative. El Asba’i, widely known for his notable intellect and captivating writings, engaged Bell in enriching dialogues, part of which focused on deciphering the religious and cultural narratives woven into the life of Damascus. Through these interactions, Bell was able to sketch an undistorted image of Damascus, touching upon the vast spectrum of the political and cultural life.
We sat on cushions and drank coffee, turning over the while exquisite manuscripts of all dates and countries, some written on gold and some on silver, some on brocade and some on supple parchment (several of these last being pages of Kufic texts abstracted from the Kubbet el Khazneh before it was closed), and when we rose to go Mustafa presented me with three examples of his own art, and I carried them off rejoicing.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
To sum up, Gertrude Bell’s interactions with prominent locals in Damascus not only broadened her understanding of the region, but also provided her with a nuanced observation of the local social fabric and the dynamics of power in Damascus during that era.
Exploration of Local Culture and Society
Gertrude Bell’s documentation of her rich exploration of local culture and society makes for enlightening reading in “The Desert and The Sown”. The author tells of her visit to the lush valley of the Barada where she paid a call on Amir Omar, coming face-to-face with the quintessential hospitality and charm that are deeply entrenched in the idea of Arab generosity. Bell’s interactions with Omar pointed towards the intricacies of Arab-Bedouin relations, providing her with a comparative perspective on urban and rural cultural dynamics.
He took us into his house, which, like the other houses of his family, was full of flowers, and up to a pavilion on the roof, whither his pointer followed us with a friendly air of companionship. There amid pots of hyacinths and tulips we watched the sun set over the snowy hills and talked of desert game and sport.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Bell meticulously noted her interactions with various local dwellers in Damascus. She describes encounters with a diverse collection of people including an Afghan, affectionately portrayed for his foreignness within the Damascene society, a modest sweetmeat seller reflecting the vibrant local marketplace, Dervishes of Sheikh Hassan’s Tekkiyyah signifying the city’s spiritual fervour, and a Red-bearded Persian who owns a tea shop, an embodiment of Damascus’ cosmopolitanism. Each of these interactions allowed Bell to discover a mosaic of cultures within Damascus, gaining an intricate understanding of its society which she masterfully portrays in her writing.
the red-bearded Persian who keeps a tea shop in the Com Market and who is a member of the Beha’i sect among which I have many acquaintances. As I sat drinking glasses of delicious Persian tea at his table, I greeted him in his own tongue and whispered : ‘‘I have been much honoured by the Holy Family at Acre.” He nodded his head and smiled and answered : Your Excellency is known to us,*’ and when I rose to go and asked his charge he replied : “For you there is never anything to pay.” I vow there is nothing that so warms the heart as to find yourself admitted into the secret circle of Oriental beneficence—and few things so rare.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Bell further plunged into the cultural atmosphere of Damascus with her attendance in the Great Mosque during the afternoon prayer. Her account of this visit offers a picturesque view of the religious devotion deeply embedded in the local populace, and the diversity of Muslim followers in the city. The Great Mosque was where the rich tapestry of Damascus’ ethnic, social, and religious diversity was most evident, and Bell captured this diversity with great finesse.
Her participation in an evening party hosted by Shekib el Arslan, a noted figure in Damascus, also forms a significant part of her cultural exploration. Bell indulges her readers with vivid descriptions of the ambience, the wit and intellect-cloaked chit-chat, the rhythmic music and delicious food. The evening party represented not only a venue of merry-making but also a platform for intellectual debates and discussions. Notably, topics like Turkish politics and foreign interventions were proactively discussed. It offered Bell an opening into understanding the socio-political interactions and debates within the elites of Damascus, bringing her closer to the pulse of the city.
His views on Turkish politics were worth hearing. “ My friends,” said he, “ the evils under which we suffer are due to the foreign nations who refuse to allow the Turkish empire to move in any direction. When she fights they take the fruits of her victory from her, as they did after the war with the Greeks. What good is it that we should conquer the rebellious Albanians ? the Bulganans alone would gam advantage and the followers of our Prophet {sic, though he was a Druze) could not live under the hand of the Bulgarians as they would not live under the hand of the Greeks in Crete. For look you, the Moslems of Crete are now dwelling at Salahiyeh as you know well, and Crete has suffered by their departure.”
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Bell’s exploration of the local culture and society in Damascus proved to be integral to her comprehensive understanding of the city. Her encounters and experiences travelling through the bustling streets, attending social gatherings, visiting the mosque, engaging with locals, and observing daily life allowed her to truly grasp and communicate the essence of Damascus.
Bell’s Last Day in Damascus
On Gertrude Bell’s last day in Damascus, as detailed in “The Desert and The Sown”, she not only concluded her observational tarrying but also compiled a series of final significant interactions that stitched together the impressions of her stay. The final day was as insightful and immersive as every day prior, with a blend of political discourse and personal exploration essential to the understanding of Damascus.
Bell’s first appointment on her final day was with Muhammad Pasha, an influential Ottoman governor, as well as Sheikh Hassan Nakshabandi and Nazim Pasha. The discussion lingered widely on the political implications of the Japanese war against Russia, which was a global event echoing in the corridors of the complex Ottoman Empire. Muhammad Pasha’s reputation was also a talking point during their dialogue, providing Bell with a window into the dynamics and machinations of local power structures.
We talked of the Japanese War, a topic never far from the lips of my interlocutors, great or small, and I made bold to ask him his opinion. “ Officially,” said he, ‘‘ I am neutral.” “ But between friends ? ” Of course I am on the side of the Japanese,” he answered. And then he added : “ It is you who have gained by their victory.” I replied : “ But will you not also gain ? ” He answered gloomily : “ We have not gained as yet. Not at all in Macedonia.”
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
There was also a return visit to Sheikh Hassan’s separate dwellings for each of his wives. In these domiciles, Bell noted the striking differences in living conditions. This exploratory visit touched upon a crucial aspect of the local culture, opening up insights into the practice of polygamy, the status, and roles of women in society, and a pressing note on the significant contrasts within domestic life in Damascus. She also had the opportunity to take in the varying views of the city from each of these residences.
The harem was shockingly untidy. Except when the women folk expect your visit and have prepared for it, nothing is more forlornly unkempt than the r appearance. The disorder of the rooms in which they live may partly be accounted for by the fact that there are neither cupboards nor drawers in them, and all possessions are kept in large green and gold boxes, which must be unpacked when so much as a pocket-handkerchief is needed, and frequently remain unpacked.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Bell’s last day in Damascus, peppered with important political discussions and personal explorations, evidently encapsulates the spirit of her entire journey in the city. Her observations and encounters, stacked meticulously over the span of her visit, resulted in a nuanced narrative that is “The Desert and The Sown”. As Bell closed her final day in Damascus, she left the city with a well-rounded understanding of its socio-political and cultural dynamics, enabling her to craft a narrative so rich in detail and personal insight.
Reflections and Impressions
As Gertrude Bell brought her stay in Damascus to an end, her reflections and impressions give readers an enriched understanding of the region’s cultural fabric and her own personal journey within it. Bell’s writings encapsulate the climax of her immersive experience in Damascus, drawing a vivid picture of the essence of the city and its people.
Bell’s reflection on a bustling Friday in Damascus adds a layer of intimacy to her account. The author vividly describes the electrifying atmosphere as the city fervently prepared for the weekly congregational prayers and the social festivities that followed. Glimpses of the daily rhythm of Damascene life, particularly on a Friday, gave Bell an authentic grasp of the city’s vibrant social texture.
Damascus on a fine Friday is a sight worth travelling far to see. All the male population dressed in their best parade the streets, the sweetmeat sellers and the auctioneers of second-hand clothes drive a roaring trade, the shops steam with dressed meats of the most tempting kind, and splendidly caparisoned mares are galloped along the road by the river Abana.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
The reflections and impressions derived from Gertrude Bell’s interactions and experiences in Damascus encapsulate her understanding of the city’s socio-cultural and political dynamics. As her narrative informed and engaged, it allowed readers a unique immersion into the heart of Damascus. By chronologically aligning her encounters, interactions, and reflections, Bell provided an insightful and comprehensible guide through the tapestry of Damascene life during her stay.
Discussion on Political Climate
As Gertrude Bell navigated the physical and social landscape of Damascus , her engaging narrative was interspersed with her observations of the political climate. Bell’s witness of the global events from the local vantage point of Damascus offered a fascinating insight into the political nuances of the period.
Bell expands on a notable dinner conversation where foreign interventions in Turkey were discussed against the backdrop of global politics. The discussion weaved through specific topics of concern, reflecting the response and apprehensions of Damascenes regarding the influences and implications of external interventions on the Ottoman domain. Bell relays how the stakeholders’ perspectives were characterized by an unmistakable sense of uncertainty and caution towards foreign interventions, a sentiment that appeared to be shared amongst much of the city’s elite.
Returning to the persona of Muhammad Pasha, whom Bell had previously discussed with respect to his reputation and stance on the Japanese war, she delves into his past life as a brigand. Bell’s account of Muhammad Pasha’s attempts to transition from a life of brigandry to a life of peace, spoke volumes about the broader socio-political change that was taking a hold in the city. Her narrative painted a vivid picture of a man and, on a larger scale, a city and a region in the throes of transformation, reflecting the political flux that emblemized the era.
Bell also spent some time reflecting on the Japanese war and its consequences on the global stage. She took note of its significant impact on Turkey, particularly in the way it shaped the political outlook of the Damascenes. The Japanese war provided the backdrop for many of her documented interactions and musings, and proved instrumental in showcasing the response and adjustments of the Damascene society to global shifts. The intricate connection between local narratives and global events, as observed by Bell, provided a multi-dimensional perspective to her account of the region.
Conclusion
In “The Desert and The Sown”, Gertrude Bell vividly recounts her experiences and observations during her time in Damascus, offering a rich tapestry of insights into the socio-political and cultural landscape of the city. Through her interactions with prominent local figures, exploration of local culture and society, and discussions on the political climate, Bell provides readers with a nuanced understanding of Damascus during that period.
Bell’s interactions with figures such as Amir ‘Abdullah, Sheikh Tahir ul Jezairi, Mustafa Pasha el Barazi, and Mustafa el Asba’i shed light on the intricate web of familial ties, intellectual pursuits, and societal structures in Damascus. These encounters not only enriched Bell’s understanding of the local dynamics but also showcased the diversity and complexity of the city’s social fabric.
Furthermore, Bell’s exploration of local culture and society, from visits to the Barada valley to interactions with diverse individuals in Damascus, painted a vivid picture of the city’s vibrant life. Her attendance at the Great Mosque and participation in evening gatherings provided a glimpse into the religious and intellectual fervor that permeated Damascene society, offering a glimpse into the city’s multicultural essence.