In the early 20th century, Gertrude Bell, a renowned traveller and writer, embarked on a journey that would take her through the stark and unyielding landscapes of the Middle East. One of the most captivating and challenging stretches of this journey was the Jordan Valley, a region she described with vivid detail and stark realism. Bell’s account provides an evocative portrayal that intertwines the physical landscape with the rich tapestry of historical and biblical references.
Key Takeaways
- Gertrude Bell’s journey through the Jordan Valley highlighted its barren and inhospitable nature.
- Bell described the valley with biblical references, adding depth to its characterization.
- Sidr trees, significant in Christian theology, added a symbolic layer to the landscape.
- Bell’s journey faced challenges like treacherous mud plains and navigating the Slime Pits of Genesis.
- Bell observed military movements, reflecting the geopolitical realities of the early 20th century.
- The journey included encounters with diverse Arabic dialects and regional gossip.
- Bell’s visit to Salt showcased the region’s cultural diversity and hospitality.
The Jordan Valley, as depicted by Gertrude Bell, is a landscape that borders on the inhuman, possessing an almost evil aspect. This desolate expanse evokes the flaming visions of infamous biblical cities synonymous with sin and divine retribution. These references serve as a powerful backdrop that shapes the reader’s understanding of the landscape. Bell’s choice of language, referring to the area as having “an aspect of inhumanity,” adds a layer of metaphorical depth, suggesting a land that is not just barren but actively hostile to life.
The valley of Jordan has an aspect of inhumanity that is almost evil. If the prophets of the Old Testament had fulminated their anathemas against it as they did against Babylon or Tyre, no better proof of their prescience would exist ; but they were silent, and the imagination must travel back to flaming visions of Gomorrah and of Sodom, dim legends of iniquity that haunted our own childhood as they haunted the childhood of the Semitic races.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
The physical attributes of the valley further reinforce this perception of an unforgiving land. Bell describes a heavy, stifling atmosphere that weighs upon the lowest level of the earth’s surface. This description is both literal and figurative, as the valley is not only geographically one of the lowest points on earth, but it also carries a sense of oppressive heaviness that one feels upon entering it. The wind, which races across the hilltops above, seems to avoid the valley, leaving it stagnant and lifeless, much like the bottom of a deep sea.
Adding to the valley’s inhospitable nature are the thickets of prickly sidr trees, known as the Spina Christi. These trees are of particular significance, as their branches are said to have been twisted into the Crown of Thorns, a symbol of suffering and sacrifice in Christian theology.
Bell notes the two kinds of these sidr bushes – the zakum and the dom. The zakum is used for extracting medicinal oil, while the dom bears a fruit that resembles a crab apple, ripening to a reddish-brown hue. However, this fruit is a very Dead Sea Fruit, alluring to the eye but leaving a taste of sandy bitterness on the lips. This metaphorical comparison to the biblical Dead Sea Fruit, which symbolises false promises and unattainable desires, further cements the valley’s association with themes of disillusionment and hardship.
The Harsh Realities of the Jordan Valley
As Bell ventured deeper into the valley, she encountered a dramatic change in the terrain. The sudden onslaught of rain transformed the hard mud plains into treacherous fields. In Bell’s words, the plains assumed the “consistency of butter,” turning the journey into a perilous endeavour. The horses’ feet became shod in the clinging mud, up to their fetlocks, and even Bell’s dog, Kurt, struggled, whining as he dragged his paws out of the yellow glue. This vivid description underscores the struggle against nature’s elements, a reminder of the unpredictability and hostility of the natural world.
Biblical Slime Pits
Amidst these challenges lay the Slime Pits of Genesis, a landscape feature that adds a layer of historical and mythological significance to Bell’s account. These pits, a quarter of a mile west of the Jordan River, presented a daunting obstacle. The smooth plain, once solid and reliable, transformed into a series of steep mud banks and narrow gullies. Bell describes these banks as not high but “treacherously sharp-crested” and “precipitous,” demanding utmost care to navigate. The recent shower had rendered these slopes as slippery as glass, further compounding the difficulty of the journey. Even on foot, maintaining balance was nearly impossible, as evidenced by Bell’s horse falling while being led across the ridges.
And the vale of Siddim was full of slimepits; and the kings of Sodom and Gomorrah fled, and fell there; and they that remained fled to the mountain.
Genesis 14:10 King James Version
The fact that a horseman could be trapped for hours in these sticky hollows if he fell, waiting for the mud to dry, adds a sense of urgency and danger to the journey. Bell’s relief at seeing her caravan emerge safely from the Slime Pits is palpable, highlighting the sense of accomplishment and relief that comes with overcoming such formidable natural obstacles.
Crossing the Jordan River
As Bell approached the banks of the Jordan River, she noted a discernible change in the environment. The riverbank was carpeted with young grass and yellow daisies, a refreshing sight after the starkness of the valley. The tamarisk bushes, despite their rusty appearance, showed faint signs of spring. The presence of these small signs of life amidst the overall barrenness of the Jordan Valley highlights the diverse and often contrasting aspects of nature.
The crossing of the Jordan River was a pivotal moment in Bell’s journey. She describes the bridge over the river as the “most inspiring piece of architecture in the world,” not for its aesthetic value but for its symbolic significance. To her, it was the Gate of the Desert, a threshold between two worlds. This perception of the bridge as a gateway is laden with historical and cultural connotations, as the Jordan River has long been a significant geographical and symbolic boundary in many religious and historical narratives.
The Turkish Government levies a small toll on all who pass backwards and forwards across the bridge, and keeps an agent there for that purpose. He lives in a wattle hut by the gate of the bridge, and one or two ragged Arabs of the Ghor share his solitude. Among these was a grey-haired negro, who gathered wood for our fire, and on the strength of his sendees spent the night with us.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Observations of Military Movement
As Gertrude Bell continued her journey, her keen observations extended beyond the natural landscape to the human activities shaping the region. During this period, the Ottoman Empire was engaged in quelling an insurrection in Yemen, a fact that became particularly evident to Bell as she witnessed the movement of Turkish troops through the Jordan Valley. This observation offers a glimpse into the geopolitical realities of the early 20th century, particularly in the Middle East, where the fading Ottoman Empire was grappling with internal rebellions and external pressures.
Bell’s account vividly captures the plight of the Turkish soldiers. The regiments, largely composed of troops from southern Syria, were being marched down to the Jordan Bridge. This strategic crossing point served as a conduit to ‘Amman, where the soldiers would board trains on the Mecca railway, heading towards the then-terminus at Ma’an, near Petra. Bell’s description of the soldiers’ condition is both empathetic and stark. Many of them were ill-equipped for the journey, with tattered boots and insufficient provisions. This poignant depiction of the soldiers, half-starved and weary, underscores the human cost of military campaigns and the often-overlooked individual struggles within larger geopolitical machinations.
Bell also highlights the logistical challenges faced by the Ottoman military in this harsh terrain. The journey from Ma’an across the sandy wastes to the Gulf of ‘Akabah was particularly treacherous. The scarcity of wells along this route made the march a deadly endeavour. The toll on the soldiers and camels was severe, with many perishing before reaching their destination.
Many hundreds of men and many thousands of camels perished before they reached the gulf, for the wells upon that road are three only (so said the Arabs), and one lies about two miles off the track, undiscoverable to those who are not familiar with the country.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Multitudinous Dialects
Gertrude Bell’s journey through the Jordan Valley was an immersion into the rich tapestry of cultures and languages of the region. Her interactions with various individuals along the way provided her with a unique insight into the local dialects and the gossip that permeated the desert air. This aspect of her travelogue sheds light on the cultural and linguistic diversity of the Middle East, as well as the socio-political undercurrents that were shaping the region during her travels.
One of the most intriguing elements of Bell’s narrative is her depiction of the diverse Arabic dialects spoken by her companions. This diversity is exemplified by Mikhail’s “vulgar cockney of Jerusalem,” Habib’s rapid Lebanese dialect and Muhammad’s slow Beyrouti drawl. This symphony of dialects around her campfire not only illustrates the linguistic richness of the Arab world but also reflects the complex social fabric of the region. Bell’s companions question which dialect is the “correct” one, to which she humorously responds, “God knows! For He is omniscient.”
Desert Gossip
Bell’s conversations around her campfire are filled with rumours and news about significant figures in Arabian politics, such as Ibn Rashid and Ibn Sa’oud. These individuals were key players in the ongoing power struggles in central Arabia, and Bell’s interest in these tales reveals her deep engagement with the region’s political landscape. The gossip about the conflict between Ibn Rashid and Ibn Sa’oud, and the possible involvement of the Redifs (Ottoman reserve troops), provides a vivid illustration of the ongoing power struggles and the ever-shifting alliances within the Arabian Peninsula.
From Mabuk we heard the first gossip of the desert. His talk was forever of Ibn er Rashid, the young chief of the Shammar, whose powerful uncle Muhammad left him so uneasy a legacy of dominion in central Arabia.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
The Journey to Salt
Salt, a town nestled in the mountains, provided a stark contrast to the barrenness of the Jordan Valley. Bell’s arrival in Salt was a transition into a realm where the intricacies of human relationships and cultural nuances came to the forefront. Her intention to meet Habib Effendi in Salt was driven by a connection through a mutual acquaintance, illustrating the importance of social networks and personal introductions in this part of the world.
Upon her arrival in Salt, Bell was warmly welcomed, despite Habib being out and his brother Namrud being away. The hospitality she received is a testament to the region’s cultural norms, where guests are treated with utmost respect and kindness.
I was received warmly, Habib was out, Namrud away, but would I not come in and rest ? The house was small and the children many : while I debated whether the soaked ground outside would not prove a better bed, there appeared a magnificent old man in full Arab dress, who took my horse by the bridle, declared that he and no other should lodge me, and so led me away.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Bell’s encounter with Yusef Effendi Sukkar, a wealthy Christian and one of Salt’s most prominent residents, further highlights the diversity of the region. Bell’s description of her host’s generosity and the lavishness of her accommodations paints a vivid picture of the hospitality that is central to Middle Eastern culture.
We settled down to coffee, the bitter black .coffee of the Arabs, which is better than any nectar. The cup is handed with a Deign to accept,” you pass it back empty, murmuring “ May you live ! ’ As you sip, someone ejaculates, “ A double health,” and you reply, “ Upon your heart ! ”
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
In Salt, Bell’s interactions with the locals reveal the town’s social dynamics and the interplay of different religions and cultures. Her discussions with Habib Effendi and other town residents about her travel plans to the Druze mountains demonstrate the complex logistics and negotiations involved in travel during that era, especially for a woman in a predominantly male-dominated society.
Bell’s time in Salt serves as a microcosm of the Middle East’s vast cultural mosaic, where a myriad of religions, languages, and customs live in concert. Her narrative, as meticulously captured in “The Desert and the Sown,” transcends the mere recounting of her travels, delving into the profound exploration of the region’s intricate human fabric. Through Gertrude Bell’s literary works, readers are invited into her journey of discovery, where she not only traverses the physical landscapes but also navigates the richly layered human experiences that define the Middle East.
FAQ
Q: What was the main focus of Gertrude Bell’s journey?
A: Bell’s journey focused on exploring and documenting the Jordan Valley’s landscape and its historical, biblical, and cultural significance.
Q: How did Gertrude Bell describe the Jordan Valley?
A: She described it as a barren, almost evil landscape, rich in historical and biblical references.
Q: What challenges did Bell face in the Jordan Valley?
A: Bell encountered treacherous terrain, like mud plains and the Slime Pits of Genesis, which were challenging to navigate.
Q: Why are the Sidr trees significant in Bell’s narrative?
A: Sidr trees, particularly the Spina Christi, symbolize suffering and sacrifice in Christian theology.
Q: What was the significance of crossing the Jordan River for Bell?
A: Crossing the Jordan represented a symbolic threshold between two worlds, highlighting a transition in her journey.
Q: What does Bell’s observation of military movements indicate?
A: It indicates the geopolitical tensions and challenges within the Ottoman Empire during the early 20th century.
Q: How did Bell’s experience in Salt differ from the Jordan Valley?
A: In Salt, Bell experienced the region’s cultural diversity and hospitality, contrasting with the harshness of the Jordan Valley.