Gertrude Bell, a renowned explorer and writer, takes readers on an extraordinary journey through the Middle East in her travelogue “The Desert and the Sown.” Throughout her book, Bell provides a vivid and detailed account of her experiences as she traverses the landscapes of the Southern Syrian mountains, encountering local cultures and historical artefacts along the way.
Gertrude Bell’s books immerse readers in a world of adventure, discovery, and reflection. Through her insightful observations and engaging storytelling, Bell invites readers to join her on a remarkable journey filled with challenges and triumphs, offering a unique glimpse into a bygone era of exploration and discovery.
Recruitment & Destination
Setting out on one of her most ambitious journeys yet, Gertrude Bell’s destination was the humble village of Umm Ruweik. Nestled amidst barren landscapes and vast stretches of untamed wilderness of the Jebel Druze mountain range, Umm Ruweik acted as the stepping stone for Bell into the intricate tapestry of the Levant. As with any expedition into unfamiliar territory, securing a guide acquainted with local terrain was paramount. For this crucial role, Bell enlisted the services of a capable and experienced fellow traveller, a man named Faiz.
Faiz was not only well-versed in the navigational demands of the region but also understood the nuanced cultural and social architectures governing the local communities. His contribution to the journey extended beyond mere guidance, imbibing the expedition with an insider’s perspective on the geopolitical stead of the region. Faiz’s intricate knowledge of the region’s socio-cultural dynamics lent authenticity to Bell’s narrative, enhancing its richness and depth.
Having a trusted guide like Faiz by her side, Bell began to lay down the details of her plan. She intended to leave their mules and tents at Umm Ruweik to reduce the weight of their load and facilitate smoother travel into the heart of the mountains.
We had not ridden very far along the lip of the hills, I gazing at the eastern plain as at a Promised Land that my feet would never tread, before Faiz began to develop a plan for leaving the mules and tents behind at Umm Ruweik and making a dash across the Safa to the Ruhbeh, where lay the great ruin of which the accounts had fired my imagination. In a moment the world changed colour, and Success shone from the blue sky and hung in golden mists on that plain which had suddenly become accessible.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert Ad The Sown (1907)
The unburdened team was then slated to explore the ancient ruins of Safa and the Ruhbeh, providing Bell with an opportunity to probe into the historical lives of those who called these austere lands home. The mysteries held by the ruins awaited her, hinting at the ancient civilizations that once thrived amidst the unforgiving terrain. Bell, eager to weave together the scattered fragments of the region’s past, began her journey in earnest, her heart set on uncovering the secrets of the desert and the sown.
Landscapes and Architecture: From Hills to Valleys
Gertrude Bell’s journey progressed from the heights of the Druze hills, skirting the edges in a balance of silent conquest and respectful intrusion. To make their descent, Bell and her guide Faiz chose Saleh as their starting point, a decision that led them towards the sweeping expanses of the Wadi Busan. As they gradually descended, Bell took in the stark and beautiful view that lay ahead. The landscape unfolded like a layered painting, each stroke representing different elements of nature effortlessly merging into a harmonious mosaic. It was a procession of natural grandeur, a raw portrayal of the untamed wilds, inspiring awe and humility in equal measure.
Further into the heart of the landscape, they came across the small village of Stoeh. Stoeh was a particularly intriguing stop on their path due to its marvelous display of Hauran architecture that stood as a testament of time. The masonry of the village buildings, created from basalt, was tailored by years of weathering and relentless sand-laden winds, lending each brick and each contour a distinct personality. It was the embodiment of a unique aesthetic that had survived the ravages of time and natural elements. Bell was moved by this artistic expression of resilience, witnessing history thriving in the present.
Stoeh, the village on the north side of the Wadi Busan, looked a flourishing place and contained some good specimens of Hauran architecture —I remember in particular a fine architrave carved with a double scroll of grapes and vine leaves that fell on either side of a vase occupying the centre of the stone.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Soon after leaving Stoeh, Bell’s route led her to the Safa, where she was greeted by a mesmerizing panorama which seemed almost otherworldly. The Safa was a showcase of desolate beauty, a stark barren landscape that held within it an austere charm. The rough, uneven outlines of the terrain, flecked with resilient vegetation and outlined by iridescent desert skies, delivered a sense of tranquillity and solitude that left Bell entranced.
The landscapes encountered by Bell oscillated between the extremes of seclusion and vibrancy. A prime example of this was found in the contrast between Beida and Harra, two markedly different landscapes that cohabited in a delicate equilibrium. Beida was a sight to behold with its yellow tufa-earth formations, a spectacle of nature that painted a vivid portrait of color and life amidst the desert austerity. Not too far away, Harra stood witness to the stark dominion of the black volcanic stone, a stark reminder of the geological turmoil that lay beneath the surface. The juxtaposition was striking, manifesting the inherent duality of the region’s geology in truly cinematic fashion.
Exploring the Syria’s Volcanic Safa Region
Not only motivated by the geographical and architectural allure of the Middle East, Gertrude Bell also ventured forth to get a first-hand experience of the local life and culture that had thrived in these desolate regions. Her explorations of cave villages, ancient sculptures, and crumbling ruins absorbed her in the past, while her many interactions with the locals rooted her in the dynamic present.
Bell was received hospitably at Umm Ruweik, the designated base camp for the explorers. It was here that she decided to bring Mikhail and Habib along for their venture, omen-bearing names that translated to ‘the graceful’ and ‘beloved.’ These two individuals were to play crucial roles in Bell’s exploration of the heart of the Safa region.
I decided that Mikhail and Habib should accompany us, the latter at his special request. He would ride his best mule, he said, and she could keep pace with any mare and carry besides the rugs and the five chickens which we took with us to supplement the hospitality of the Ghilth. I had a fur coat strapped behind my saddle and, as usual, a camera and a note-book m my saddle-bags. We rode down the steep slopes of the hills for an hour, three other Druze horsemen joining us as we went.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert Ad The Sown (1907)
Through the Barren Landscapes
One of the most significant challenges Gertrude Bell and her team faced as they proceeded deeper into the Safa region and towards the Jebel Druze was the increasingly apparent scarcity of water. The arid landscapes of Safa and Jebel Druze seemed to hold a monopoly over the natural resources, limiting the availability of water to a precious few spots. The struggle to procure water increasingly set the rhythm of their journey. The mundane act of locating and fetching water was elevated to an event of immense importance, influencing both the route and pace of their journey.
we found the water, a muddy pool, and lunched by it, sharing it with a herd of camels. Water in the Safa there is none fit to drink according to European canons, and for that matter there is none in the Jebel Druze. There are no springs in the hills , the water supply is contained in open tanks, and the traveller may consider himself fortunate if he be not asked to drink a liquid in which he has seen the mules and camels wallowing. Under the most favourable conditions it is sure to be heavily laden with foreign ingredients which boiling will not remove, though it renders them comparatively inno- cuous. The tea made with this fluid has a body and a flavour of its own ; it is the colour of muddy coffee and leaves a sediment at the bottom of the cup.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
The strain of such duress upon the standards of sanitation and hygiene could not be ignored, an adversity faced by every denizen of these austere lands. However, one could argue that it was in the face of such adversities that the resilience, resourcefulness, and tenacity of the local populace was laid bare. It was a testament to the innate adaptability of other human qualities like patience, perseverance, and optimism. This interplay of human endurance and the relentless wilderness served to further deepen Bell’s understanding of the region and its people.
The trek through the stone-filled expanses of the Safa was a profound experience for Bell. The essential need for guidance and companionship while navigating this unforgiving terrain was emphasized when Bell brought on another guide, Awad. As they maneuvered through the rocky inserts and harsh underfoot conditions, the radiant landscape morphed into a life-sized chessboard. Every decision to traverse a stone-laden path or to ascend a stone-inscribed mound was akin to a strategic move in an ancient game, a step further into the raw, untamed heart of Safa.
Bell’s encounter with El ‘Abla, a substantial and ancient well stone, was a moment of striking discovery. To Bell, this old well rock was a manifestation of the intricate history of the region. For she realized these stones were not merely a resource but served as a lifeline, offering a glimpse into the intricate and elaborate efforts by the ancients to not only survive but thrive in these harsh conditions.
Furthermore, the discovery of ancient heaps of stones and inscriptions scattered sporadically across the stone desert intrigued Bell. Each pile, each imprint, and each cryptic inscription appeared as if layers upon an elaborate story, waiting for the right observer to decipher their tales. Bell found herself playing the role of a detextualizer per se, engaging with the historical evidence with her understanding, indulging in the conjecture of the accounts of the civilizations once thriving in these landscapes.
’Awad stopped again a few hundred yards further at some black rocks almost flush with the ground, and they were like the open pages of a book in which all the races that had passed that way had wntten their names, in the queer script that the learned call Safaitic, m Greek, in Cufic, and in Arabic. Last of all the unlettered Bedouin had scrawled their tribe marks there.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
These physical markers interspersed within the landscape were proof of an ancient trail of human activities, inextricably lending their voice to the silent narratives of the barren landscapes. The text
Reflections & Conclusions through the Journey
As the expedition progressed, Gertrude Bell found herself contemplating the landscapes, the landmarks, and the people that had been, offering a series of reflections on the journey. The barren landscapes and their inhospitable beauty were juxtaposed against the remnants of vibrant cultures and zestful life, creating a paradox that was both engaging and poignant. As Bell visited each site, from towns to ruins to individual stones, the sheer spectrum of experiences continued to broaden and deepen her understanding of the region and its history.
She often mused about the past generations who had traversed these vast and barren lands. The stories of their endurance, their knowledge, and their relationship with the environment seldom failed to fill her with a profound sense of awe. The resilience, adaptability and tenacity of the ancient peoples who inhabited these lands appeared etched in every ruin and artifact she encountered. Each object told a story, of craft, labour, and life, bearing mute testimony to the sweat and skill of those who had shaped them.
Bell also found herself contemplating the striking polarity between the barren landscapes and the vibrant community life they sheltered. The austere, elemental desert served as the backdrop for a community teeming with cultural richness and human warmth. These experiences transformed her journey into a societal examination, compelling her to trek deeper into the heart of this intricate mosaic of human resilience.
Bell also reflected on the historical artifacts, which often presented themselves as enigmatic puzzles, waiting to be solved. She remarked upon the thrill of being a part of such historical exploration, her quest driven by the desire to piece together tales from the past. The discovery of ancient objects and inscriptions interspersed within the landscape were proof of the deep-seated human resilience. These markers of human determination and ingenuity dating back centuries rekindled a sense of profound respect for the past generations who traversed and survived in these austere landscapes.
Perhaps, one of Bell’s most profound reflections emerged from her interactions with the locals. All of her conversations, her observations, and her experiences with the locals served as a reminder of the cyclical nature of human struggle and progress. Despite the harsh conditions, she noted, these were a people known for their resilience, adaptability and a unique way of life that had endured for centuries.
Bell’s journey through “The Desert and the Sown” reiterates that travelogues are not merely journeys across geographical locations, but a quest for understanding human struggles and triumphs. Through the ebb and flow of her explorations, one thing remained constant: her eagerness to learn and her respect for cultural diversity. Gertrude Bell’s journey exemplifies the richness of human experience that arises when the daring and curious venture into the unknown.
Conclusion
Reflecting on Gertrude Bell’s incredible journey as chronicled in “The Desert and the Sown,” one cannot help but be awe-inspired by the breadth of her experiences and the depth of her insights. Through her meticulous observations, engaging storytelling, and profound reflections, Bell has provided readers with a unique window into the past, offering a glimpse of the region’s history, culture, and landscapes as seen through her eyes.
As she traversed the barren lands and explored the ancient ruins, Bell’s interactions with the locals and her reflections on the past generations who once inhabited these landscapes added layers of richness to her narrative. Each encounter, each discovery, and each moment of contemplation served to deepen her understanding of the region and its people.
Through “The Desert and the Sown,” Gertrude Bell invites readers to join her on a transformative journey, one that transcends mere geographical exploration and delves into the intricacies of human resilience, ingenuity, and cultural diversity. Her writings stand as a testament to the enduring spirit of exploration and the power of curiosity to bridge gaps, conquer challenges, and forge connections across time and space.
Gertrude Bell’s journey echoes the sentiment that true exploration is not only about discovering the unknown but also about unraveling the mysteries of the human spirit. In her quest for knowledge, understanding, and connection, Bell exemplifies the art of