Gertrude Bell, a pioneering explorer and writer, is well-known for her insightful travel memoir, “The Desert and The Sown.” Her detailed accounts of her journeys through the Middle East provide a unique perspective on the landscapes, cultures, and people she encountered. Through her travel-inspired books, Bell sheds light on the complexities and beauties of the region, offering readers a glimpse into a world rarely seen.
Key Takeaways
- The journey from Jebel Barisha to Jebel el ’Ala highlighted the region’s geographical diversity and the adaptability required of travelers.
- Qalb Lozeh fascinated Bell with its enigmatic atmosphere, architectural marvels, and historical significance.
- Bell’s encounter with the Druze community demonstrated her diplomatic skills, understanding of diverse cultures, and respect for local customs.
- The journey to Harim Castle and Salkin provided insights into medieval history, agricultural wealth, and societal dynamics of the region.
Bell’s Journey Through The Northern Syrian Mountains
Gertrude Bell’s journey through the mountains began with her ascent to the summit of Jebel Barisha. Accompanied by her dedicated companions, Bell undertook a steady climb, facing both the harsh weather conditions and the physical challenge that such an elevated terrain presented. Her meticulous account provides a close look at the group’s collective tenacity as they leaned on their shared determination to reach the peak.
In her book, Bell paints an evocative picture of the surroundings they encountered during their journey. The mountainside, punctuated by sparse vegetation, and unexpected patches of vibrant mountain flora gave a dramatic backdrop to their expedition. But beyond providing scenic beauty, Bell’s observations reflect the tenacious flora’s resilience amid the hard rock and the insight such a landscape offers into the region’s climate and overall ecology.
Journeying further, Bell and her companions sought assistance from a local peasant to guide them to Qalb Lozeh. Exhibiting her negotiation skills and knowledge of local customs, Bell successfully organized passage through the daunting terrain. Her respect for the local knowledge played a substantial role in their safe journey, revealing the interconnectedness of human and natural landscapes.
Making their descent from Jebel Barisha, the group then embarked on their journey towards Jebel el ’Ala. The descent and subsequent journey were marked by contrasts: high peaks were replaced with gentle valleys, and the unyielding terrain gave way to easier paths. Bell’s account serves as a testament to the region’s extraordinary geographical diversity and to the adaptability and resilience required of the adventurous traveler.
The Mystery of Qalb Lozeh
Upon her arrival at Qalb Lozeh, Gertrude Bell was immediately captivated by the enigmatic atmosphere that suffused this ancient site. Her companions and she found themselves surrounded by hushed silence, broken only by sounds of their footsteps echoing against the old stone and the soft rustling of the surrounding nature. The village seemed to exist independently of time; its seemingly abandoned houses standing in defiance of the normal laws of decay.
Bell’s gaze was particularly drawn to the architectural marvel of Qalb Lozeh’s great church. Almost rising above the village, the church is an architectural marvel that commanded Bell’s deep admiration and respect. Her detailed description of its ornate balustrades, lofty dome, and sturdy stone columns betrays her fascination for the superior craftsmanship and aesthetic essence of the place.
Whether there was ever much of a settlement round the great church I do not know; there are now but few remains of houses, and it stands almost alone. It stands too very nearly unrivalled among the monuments of Syrian art. The towered narthex, the wide bays of the nave, the apse adorned with engaged columns, the matchless beauty of the decoration and the justice of proportion preserved in every part, are the features that first strike the beholder ; but as he gazes he becomes aware that this is not only the last word in the history of Synaii architecture, spoken at the end of many centuries of endeavour, but that it IS also the beginning of a new chapter in the architecture of the world. The fine and simple beauty of Romanesque was born in North Syria.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
For Bell, the church was not a mere monument of physical beauty. She reflected upon its historical significance and posited it as a beacon in the development of Syrian and world architectural history. She posited that, despite its modest size and remote location, this church could be viewed as a testament to the artistic and spiritual aspirations of a forgotten culture. This assumption reflected Bell’s depth of understanding of architectural history and her conviction that even a solitary monument could paint a compelling picture of a civilisation’s flair and vision.
Encounter with The Druzes
The journey of Gertrude Bell took her and her companions next to the Druze villages nestled in the mountains near Qalb Lozeh. The Druze community, resistant to change, had maintained an isolative existence protecting their secretive faith from the external world. Through her account, Bell offers the reader a glimpse of this mysterious community, bringing their vibrant culture and guarded traditions to light.
Despite her outsider status and the prevailing tensions between the Druzes and the neighboring Mohammadans, Bell managed to establish a connection with this cloistered community. The Druzes permitted her to photograph them—a rare allowance that was indicative of the trust she managed to foster with this guarded group. This interaction between Bell and the Druze community is a reflection of her diplomatic skills, her understanding of diverse cultures, and the respect she demonstrated towards the peoples and customs she encountered during her travels.
Mashallah ! ” said I, “ you are Druzes.” The man looked round anxiously at Najib and Mikhail, following close on our heels, bent his head and walked on without speaking. “ You need not fear,” said I. “ The soldier and my servant are discreet men.” He took heart at this and said : There are few of us in the mountains, and we dread the Mohammadans and hide from them that we are Druzes, lest they should drive us out. We are not more than two hundred houses in all.”
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
The encounter resulted in Bell developing an unexpected affection for the Druze population. Despite their distressing circumstances, constantly living in fear of the Mohammadans, Bell was moved by their resilience, their closely-knit community, and their stringent codes of conduct—all traits firmly rooted in their unique religious beliefs. Bell’s interaction with the Druze is a significant episode in her book, offering readers a glimpse into the complex sociopolitical circumstances of the time and the intricate interplay of religion and culture in Middle East societies.
Journey to Harim Castle and Salkin
After leaving the Druze villages, Gertrude Bell and her travel companions steered their journey towards Harim castle, a formidable medieval fortress sitting atop a ridge overlooking the fertile Plain of Amuq. Bell’s account of the castle transports readers to a time of chivalry and crusades with tales of knights and battles. The commanding view from the castle over the surrounding countryside caught her imagination and provided a vantage point to calculate her next moves.
Salkin, a town nestled amidst a vibrant agricultural landscape, was her next stop. The journey from Harim castle to Salkin was marked by striking fertility, set against the stark contrast of the barren mountain landscapes she had experienced earlier. Rows of olive groves, fields of grain, and patches of vegetables, indicated the region’s agricultural wealth, a vital lifeline for the local populace. The journey shed a new light on the region’s diversity – the stark desert and barren mountains gradually giving way to alpine forests and verdant farmland.
Upon reaching Salkin, an unforeseen delay in the arrival of their baggage meant they had to spend time in the town. Fortune smiled on them when Muhammad ’Ali Agha, a influential local, offered Bell and her companions an invitation to his home, displaying the high regard held for Bell even in unfamiliar territories. This time in Salkin allowed Bell to acquaint herself more closely with the local customs and day-to-day lives of the people.
In Salkin, two figures of note rose prominently in Bell’s writings – Muhammad ’Ali Agha himself, and his relative, Reshid Agha Kakhya Zadeh. The former was a charismatic personality, whose generosity and affability set him apart. Reshid Agha, on the other hand, exercised significant local power through his extensive landholdings. Engaging with these figures further offered Bell a nuanced understanding of the social and power dynamics at play in these rural settings.
Harsh Realities and Arrival in Antioch
The journey undertaken by Gertrude Bell’s group continued to reveal the harsh conditions of the region. The terrain drastically changed as they traversed through muddy paths, a reflection of the region’s challenging geography. Bell’s account focuses not merely on the physical difficulties encountered by the group but also brings to light the local population’s struggles, revealing a stark contrast between the picturesque landscapes and the harsh realities of life faced by the region’s inhabitants.
In this context, Bell critically appraises Reshid Agha, detailing his harsh treatment of local peasants. Despite his impeccable hospitality towards Bell, Reshid Agha’s indifference and severe exploitation of the peasants did not escape her discerning eyes. These observations protrude in stark contrast to her earlier experiences and serve as a potent reminder of the socio-economic disparities prevalent in the region, providing a grave insight into the power dynamics that dominated rural societies.
The group’s tortuous journey ultimately led them to modern Antioch (in modern day Turkey). As a city with a deep history rooted in different civilizations, Antioch acted as a significant milestone in their journey. On arrival, Bell’s attention was captivated by the city’s enduring beauty, an architectural testament to a storied past that had managed to survive through centuries of conflict and conquest.
Even though the city had suffered numerous invasions and been partially ravaged over time, Bell was struck by its resilience. Despite being stripped of much of its former glory, Antioch managed to retain a certain charm that had not been entirely erased by the ravages of time. Bell’s account of Antioch stands representative of her ability to find beauty in places most people would overlook, highlighting her keen powers of observation and her deep appreciation for the resilience of both people and places confronted with adversity.
Modem Antioch is like the pantaloon whose clothes are far too wide for his lean shanks ; the castle walls go climbing over rock and hiU, enclosing an area from which the town has shrunk away. But it is stiU one of the loveliest of places, with its great ragged hill behind it, crowned with walls, and its clustered red roofs stretching down to the wide and fertile valley of the Orontes. Earthquakes and the changing floods of the stream have over- 321 turned and covered with silt the palaces of the Greek and of the Roman city, yet as I stood at sunset on the sloping sward of the Nosairiyyeh graveyard below Mount Silpius, where my camp was pitched, and saw the red roots under a crescent moon, I recognised that beauty is the inalienable heritage of Antioch.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Conclusion
Gertrude Bell’s journeys through the Middle East as chronicled in her book, “The Desert and The Sown,” provide a deeply insightful and captivating narrative of her encounters with diverse landscapes, cultures, and people. Throughout her explorations, Bell displayed a rare blend of curiosity, resilience, and empathy, which illuminated the complexities and beauties of the region in a profound manner.
Summarizing her travels, Bell’s narrative captures the essence of her unique perspective and experiences in a way that transcends mere geographical explorations. Her encounters with the mountains, ancient sites, and various communities offer readers a rich tapestry of the region’s history, architecture, and social dynamics. Bell’s ability to appreciate the intricacies of the landscapes she traversed and the people she encountered, coupled with her insightful reflections, underscore her status as a pioneering explorer and astute chronicler of the Middle East.
Reflecting on Bell’s journeys, one cannot help but marvel at her courage, curiosity, and deep respect for different cultures. Her willingness to immerse herself in unfamiliar territories, engage with diverse communities, and appreciate the nuances of the region’s history and architecture set her apart as a truly exceptional explorer and writer. Through her book, “The Desert and The Sown,” Gertrude Bell leaves a lasting legacy of exploration, understanding, and appreciation for the multifaceted tapestry of the Middle East.
FAQs
What was Gertrude Bell’s journey through the mountains like?
Gertrude Bell’s journey through the mountains involved climbing Jebel Barisha with her companions, facing harsh weather conditions and rugged terrain. They encountered diverse landscapes and exhibited resilience and determination throughout.
What did Gertrude Bell observe about the flora during her journey?
Gertrude Bell observed the resilience of mountain flora amid hard rock, offering insights into the region’s climate and ecology.
How did Gertrude Bell organize passage through the terrain to Kalb Lozeh?
Gertrude Bell successfully organized passage through the daunting terrain to Kalb Lozeh by seeking assistance from a local peasant and respecting local knowledge.
What captivated Gertrude Bell at Kalb Lozeh?
Gertrude Bell was captivated by the enigmatic atmosphere, ancient structures, and the great church at Kalb Lozeh, which she admired for its architectural marvel and historical significance.
How did Gertrude Bell establish a connection with the Druze community?
Despite tensions, Gertrude Bell established a connection with the secretive Druze community by fostering trust, showing respect for their customs, and demonstrating her diplomatic skills.