Gertrude Bell, a well-known British writer, traveler, archaeologist, and diplomat, has left a lasting impact on the literary world with her captivating travel memoirs. One of her most acclaimed works, “The Desert And The Sown,” takes readers on a thrilling journey through the Middle East, showcasing the beauty and complexities of the region. Bell’s rich tapestry of experiences and encounters that she eloquently depicts in her book, shedding light on the cultural, social, and historical nuances of the places she visited.
Journey From Damascus
In “The Desert And The Sown,” Gertrude Bell presents a vivid account of her route from Damascus to Ba’albek following the ancient Roman road. This initial stage of her journey exemplifies the landmark’s historical richness and the natural beauty of the region. Bell portrays the Roman road as a structural marvel, transporting readers back in time to an era of great human achievement.
Despite the scenic beauties, Bell’s travel was not without challenges. She faced harsh weather conditions that threatened to hinder her journey. She vividly illustrates these elements, with chilling wind, limited visibility due to heavy fog, and occasional sleet adding a raw, adventurous feel to her narrative. These weather-induced obstacles, however, did not deter Bell. Instead, they enriched her travel story, infusing it with a sense of exciting hardship and struggle.
The journey further presented an arresting panorama as she traversed down the Valley of Lebanon and Anti-Libanus. Bell’s descriptions of the valley are remarkably extensive, brimming with visual imagery that brought her readers directly into the scene. Skied slopes and rugged terrains, the valley exemplified the wild, untamed beauty of the region. Conveying the broad spectrum of their environmental encounter, Bell successfully transformed the geographic landscape from a mere setting into a rich, lively character of its own.
The final stage of this segment of Bell’s journey led her to Kseir, a stop that marked an ending as much as a new beginning. Setting up camp at Kseir, Bell and her companions braced themselves for the experiences that awaited in the days to follow. Her detailed depiction of their camp scenes, with reference to the cold wind slapping against their tents, and the warm light casting long shadows, stirred an aura of anticipation, thus concluding the chapter on an intriguing note.
half to a line of little mounds protecting the air-holes of an underground water channel—a Kanat it would be called in Persian, and I believe is so called in Arabic. Another two and a half hours brought us to Kseir, the mules came up a quarter of an hour later, and we camped hard by the cemetery outside the ugly mud-built town. The wind- dropped after sunset, and peace, moral and physical, settled down upon the camp.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
In essence, the journey from Damascus to Ba’albek, as portrayed in Bell’s work, is more than a simple travel log. It’s an engaging narrative intertwining historical reverence, elemental challenge, scenic beauty, and the thrilling anticipation of a journey. This leg of her travels sets the stage for the subsequent experiences, acquaintances, and encounters that would come to define Bell’s journey in the Middle East.
Notable Personalities and Interactions
The human aspect of Gertrude Bell’s journey, highlighted through her interactions with notable personalities, forms a significant part of her memoir, “The Desert And The Sown”. Illustrating the strength of human bonds amidst cultural differences, Bell introduces us to figures like Kurunfuleh, and Yusef el ’Awais, individuals who contribute to her narrative through their perspectives, companionship, and guidance.
Bell’s stay with Kurunfuleh unveiled a dimension of Middle Eastern hospitality rarely explored. Spending multiple days as Kurunfuleh’s guest, she experienced firsthand the Arabic tradition of hospitality which emphatically stresses honoring guests. Bell noted the genuine warmth and welcoming nature of her host, bringing out the cultural nuances of the region.
In the company of Kurunfuleh and Mikhail, Bell delved deeper into the social and religious dynamics of Ba’albek, a predominantly Muslim community of the Metawileh. Kurunfuleh and Mikhail, both citizens of different faiths and backgrounds, shared their concerns and perspectives on the complexities of religious cohabitation in this area. Through Bell’s detailed recollection of these conversations and reflections, the reader gains a deeper understanding of the societal fabric of Ba’albek, underlining the narrative’s historical and sociocultural relevance.
The name of my hostess was Kurunfuleh, the Carnation Flower, and she was wife to one Yusef el ’Awais, who is at present seeking his fortune in America, where she wishes to join him. I spent an hour or tw^o with her and her son and daughter and a few relations who had dropped in for a little talk and a little music, bringing their lutes with them. They told me that they were very anxious about their future. The greater part of the population of Ba’albek and round about belongs to an unorthodox sect of Islam, called the Metawileh, which has a very special reputation for fanaticism and igno- rance. These people, when they heard of the Japanese vic- tories, would come and shake their fists at their Christian neighbours, saying : “ The Christians are suffering defeat !
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Bell’s narration extends into the lives of local elites. A significant instance was her visit to the house of Hassan Beg Na’i and ‘Abd ul Wahhab Beg. These figures added definition to her understanding of the local societal structure, revealing the hierarchical aspects that governed the region. Offering a peek into the local aristocracy, Bell broadened the scope of her narrative beyond mere physical landscapes.
By recounting both shared and individual experiences and conversations with these key figures, Bell offers her readers an intimate glimpse into her journey. Through their interactions, readers gain a deeper understanding of the diversity, complexity, and richness of the region’s cultural fabric. Ultimately, Bell’s exchanges with these personalities reveal a side of the Middle East that leaps beyond the scope of conventional historical accounts, acknowledging the interpersonal dimensions that build our collective human experience.
Fascination with Landmarks
As Gertrude Bell navigated through the Middle Eastern expanse, the allure of historical landmarks became an integral aspect of the narrative in “The Desert And The Sown”. Her keen interest in history and archaeology found ample expression throughout her travels, as she acquainted herself and her readers with the region’s historical heritage. The narrative shifts seamlessly between the personal and the monumental, weaving a globe-trotting tale, one landmark at a time.
Beginning with the Roman Ruin, a ruined temple at Lebweh, Bell acquainted herself with structures alluding to eras long gone. Her detailed analysis of the monument’s architectural features combined with extensive historical context added to its relevance. As she explored the Roman Ruin, she not only navigated through the chambers and corridors but also through the pages of history, enveloping the readers in a grand narrative set in stone.
At Lebweh are the ruins of a temple built in the massive masonry of Ba’albek. A podium of four great courses of stones crowned by a simple moulding, a mere splay face, is aU that is left of it.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Bell’s journey then carried her to the springs at Ras Ba’albek, where she offered an enchanting picture of abundant natural beauty. Alongside the springs, Bell’s travelogue comes alive with the sight of swaying trees and the scent of blooming flowers, presenting an invigorating contrast to the previous landscape of ruins.
Bell’s fascination with landmarks continued as she rode to Kamu’a Hurmul, a monument in Ras Ba’albek. Her descriptions of the monument were both picturesque and scholarly, revealing her various roles as an adventurer, historian, and chronicler.
It a tall tower of massive stone- work capped by a pyramid and decorated with pilasters and a rough frieze carved in low relief with hunting scenes and trophies of arms…the learned are of opinion that it commemorates some great battle of the Roman conquest, but there is no inscription to prove them right or wrong.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
Following this, she ventured into Tell Nebi Mendu, the southern capital of the Hittites. As Bell roamed through the ancient city, the streets seemed to whisper forgotten tales, thereby resonating within the metaphysical spaces between history and the present, a crucial aspect that Bell expertly brings out in her narrative.
Lastly, Bell explored Emesa, a Roman city, where she toured a Greek Orthodox church and the Mar Elias church. The churches, with their architectural grandeur and religious significance, embodied the cultural and historical wealth of the region. For Bell, each landmark was not just a sight to admire but a narrative to unravel, a dialogic ground to connect the past and the present.
The landmarks in Bell’s journey provided a historical canvas against which her personal narrative unfolds. The array of landmarks – temples, springs, monuments, ancient cities, and churches – added depth and dimension to her account. They brought forth the historical, archaeological, and aesthetic richness of the region and, more substantially, represented the intersections of time, space, and narrative that formed the crux of Bell’s travel memoir. Her fascination with various landmarks decisively illuminates her pursuit of an all-encompassing comprehension of the cultures and histories framed within her journey.
Cultural Dynamics Explored
One of the most compelling aspects of Gertrude Bell’s “The Desert And The Sown” emanates from its exploration of the Lebanon’s complex and multifaceted cultural and societal dynamics. Bell’s perceptive insights into the interactions between different communities, the role of gender, and the identity-forming processes at play are testament to her keen observational skills and empathetic understanding.
Take, for instance, Kurunfuleh’s preference to live in Ba’albek rather than their native Lebanon. While seemingly a straightforward personal choice, Bell uses this reveal to delve deeper into the socio-cultural dimensions of this decision. Through Kurunfuleh, readers get an insider’s view of a society grappling with enduring questions of identity, home, and belonging against the backdrop of profound socio-religious tensions.
Bell’s exploration of the culture and societal dynamics is further highlighted in her focused discussions on the Christian community’s concerns positioned within the predominantly Muslim area of Ba’albek. Providing a voice to a marginalized community within her narrative, Bell presents a nuanced picture depicting the tensions and fear imbued within the Christian community’s existence. It is these discussions that set “The Desert And The Sown” apart – bringing forth narratives often relegated in the broad sweep of historical retelling and layering the travelogue with a fundamental human element.
The present population of Kseir is composed partly of Chnstians and partly of the members of a sect called the Nosairiyyeh. They are not recognised by Islam as orthodox, though, like all the smaller sects, they do their best to smooth away the outward differences between themselves and the dominant creed. They keep the tenets of their faith secret as far as possible, but Dussaud has pried into the heart of them and found them full of the traces of Phoenician tradition.
Gertrude Bell: The Desert And The Sown (1907)
By delving deep into societal dynamics, prejudices, discomforts, and inequalities, Gertrude Bell presents an unfiltered view of the society and culture she encountered during her travels. Instead of glamorizing or romanticizing her experiences, she chose to narrate them as they were, shedding light on both the beauty and the challenges of the societies she traversed.
Memorable Events
Gertrude Bell’s “The Desert And The Sown” takes us on a riveting journey filled with historical and cultural insights but also punctuated by engaging, delightful events, each contributing to the over-arching narrative in its own unique way.
Certain occurrences are imbued with a warm sense of humor, as when Bell’s loyal canine companion, Kurt, goes missing. The mysterious disappearance of the dog sets off a flurry of events, with everyone getting involved in the search. Ultimately, it is Habib who hones in on the missing pooch, revealing how closely entwined were the lives of all the travel companions. Added to the historical explorations and socio-cultural observations, this anecdote indeed enhances the humanity visible throughout the book, providing readers with light-hearted relief and adding to the depth and dimension of Bell’s journey.
Throughout the memoir, Bell’s conviction in the need to reflect generously on the vista of remarkable sites she visited is evident. These ranged from the ancient Roman road where the adventure began to the final campsite at Kseir. The people she met, the conversations she had, the historic landmarks observed – each one accounted in such a way that the reader can gain an appreciation and understanding of the world as she saw it. As much as the book is about a physical journey across space, it is equally about an intellectual journey across time. And these encounters, discussions, and reflections serve as stepping stones leading towards a broader understanding of the bygone world.
Bell’s travelogue, however, is not merely a chronicle of her encounters and experiences. It is a rich portrait of the landscapes, culture, and societal dynamics of the regions she traversed. The backdrop of the Middle East serves as a vantage point offering picturesque illustrations of the geographical terrain, intriguing insights on the societies that inhabit these regions, and a profound understanding of the cultures they’ve fostered. Bell sketches a vibrant picture of the world she observed – a world that transcends time, manifesting as a living, breathing entity in her pictures.
Some may argue that some of these episodes seem far removed from the academic perspectives that a reader of historical literature might expect. However, every anecdote, whether serious or light-hearted, contributes towards making Bell’s narrative an immersive experience. These stories have their own place within the wider narrative structure. It is in the unfolding of these memorable events that the human face of history is revealed, comprising its strengths, flaws, and a sense of humor – a reflection of Bell herself.
Conclusion
As we draw to the conclusion of our exploration into Gertrude Bell’s “The Desert And The Sown,” it becomes abundantly clear that the book is not merely a travelogue but a multifaceted tapestry of historical, cultural, and personal experiences intricately woven together. Through her vivid descriptions, keen observations, and insightful reflections, Bell invites readers into a world that is as captivating as it is enlightening.
Recalling the key points traversed in this essay, we have journeyed alongside Bell from Damascus to Ba’albek, braving harsh weather conditions, relishing the scenic beauty of the Valley of Lebanon, and experiencing the warmth of Middle Eastern hospitality. We have been introduced to notable personalities like Mikhail, Kurunfuleh, and Yusef el ’Awais, who opened windows to the societal and religious dynamics of the region. Our exploration extended to the fascination with various landmarks, from ruined temples to ancient cities, each adding layers of history and grandeur to Bell’s narrative. Delving into the culture and society dynamics, we witnessed Bell’s astute observations on identity, gender roles, and community tensions, offering a nuanced portrayal of the complexities she encountered. Lastly, our journey through memorable events, from Kurt’s misadventures to reflective conversations, showcased the human side of history, adding depth and relatability to Bell’s narrative.