As the spectre of World War II loomed, Aden, the port city in southwestern Yemen, once again found itself in the spotlight. Freya Stark returned to Aden from San’a, where tension was mounting as Italy’s entry into the war appeared increasingly likely. In this precarious environment, Aden was compelled to bolster its defences and prepare for the uncertainties of wartime. The arrival of Italian vessels, the exodus of refugees, and the preparations for conflict set the stage for the unfolding events in this tumultuous chapter of history.
Italy Joins the Fray
Amid this tension, Italy entered the war in June 1940, confirming the expectations of many. The sight of grand Italian liners docking in Aden’s harbour and then heading eastward, seemingly away from hostile waters, brought temporary relief. With an uneasy respite, the people of Aden watched these maritime behemoths vanish over the horizon, hoping that the war might not reach their shores. This anticipation, however, was short-lived, as Aden’s defences were further reinforced. The governor even acquired two ships, contemplating the possibility of having to secure supplies from India, should the need arise. Aden was bracing itself for a battle in which it knew it would be vastly outnumbered, with only a small air force contingent facing hundreds of Italian aircraft across the Red Sea.
Despite the gathering storm, when Italy finally entered the war, there was a curious sense of resolution and readiness among the people of Aden. The fear and uncertainty of the preceding days gave way to a sort of determination to face the challenges head-on. The population, a diverse mix of nationalities and cultures, stood united, prepared to withstand the impending conflict.
One of the most vivid recollections of this time was the arrival of Norwegian ships at Aden. Seeking refuge from the conflict in their homeland, these vessels slipped into the harbour like wary animals seeking sanctuary. Aden was no longer a remote outpost but had become a place of refuge, a microcosm of the worldwide tumult of World War II.
Resilience Amidst Danger
With the war closing in, the atmosphere in Aden shifted dramatically. The territory’s Indian traders, including some Parsis, decided to leave in the face of mounting uncertainty. These departures included several Indian traders, but not all of them. There were those who chose to remain, including a generous landlord who had offered office space to the Stark’s team without charge as a gesture of goodwill to the Aden authorities. His family had a long history on the Aden peninsula, dating back to its initial occupation in 1839.
In a further testament to the resilience of the Aden populace, Yemeni Arabs left the city when Italy declared war, temporarily depriving Aden of much-needed service staff, including waiters in local hotels. However, a sense of loyalty to Aden brought them back from their homes in the nearby hills after they realised that Aden had weathered the initial storm.
The Arabs of Aden remained steadfast, demonstrating not only their loyalty but also their enthusiasm for their homeland. In the evenings, the people would gather in the central square to hear the latest news, which was faithfully delivered, regardless of whether it was good or bad. A sense of unity and determination permeated the square, as Aden’s diverse population came together to support the war effort.
During this time, the arrival of the news felt like a lifeline connecting the people of Aden to the wider world. They would listen to updates while sitting under the starry night sky, a symbolic gesture that signalled their commitment. These gatherings served as a reminder that, while Aden was a small port on the edge of the Arabian Peninsula, it was not isolated from the global events of World War II.
Freya Stark and her colleagues were well-received by the local population. Arab tribesmen from as far as the Hadhramaut and the fringes of the Empty Quarter came to visit, symbolically offering small bags of their meagre millet harvest as a gesture of support for the British forces. This kind of solidarity and camaraderie demonstrated that the war had brought a renewed sense of unity to Aden, transcending cultural differences and uniting the population in a common cause.
A Bleak Reality in Somaliland
As the war escalated and reached the fringes of Aden, the situation grew increasingly dire. British Somaliland was among the early casualties, and its fate was a sombre reminder that the war was no distant tale but a harsh reality at their doorstep. The French defection in Djibouti had left Aden exposed and vulnerable, with little hope of mounting an effective defence.
The eventual evacuation of British Somaliland was a hard-fought but unavoidable decision, marking a short but intense campaign that concluded with a withdrawal of British forces. It was a painful moment for those who had seen the same troops leave Aden not long before, marching out with precision and high spirits. The Punjabis, tall and bearded, the Mahrattas in their neat uniforms, the English troops in their battle dress, and the kilted Black Watch that had charged uphill against a force eight times their number—these regiments had left with hope and confidence, only to return dusty, tired, and battle-weary.
Alongside the returning soldiers, there was a wave of refugees, a mix of men, women, and numerous infants. They sought shelter wherever they could find it, crowding every available space while they awaited further assistance. Aden had become a haven for those who had lost their homes, and its residents opened their doors to provide sanctuary. In times of adversity, a sense of unity prevailed as Aden offered refuge to those fleeing the uncertainty of war.
While the loss of British Somaliland was a bitter pill to swallow, it served as a reminder of the unpredictable and perilous nature of the war. In the face of these challenges, Aden and its people remained steadfast, preparing for the battles yet to come and holding on to the hope that they could weather the storm. The war had not only affected those in the heart of the conflict but also those in its periphery, including the residents of Aden who had become living witnesses to history’s unfolding drama.
Aden Prepares for Battle
As the spectre of war loomed ever closer, the people of Aden were acutely aware of the impending danger. The city’s defences were urgently strengthened to prepare for the inevitable conflict. The coves nestled between the black ridges, which formed the distinct crater-like landscape of Aden, were encased in layers of barbed wire, creating an intricate network of protection. The local governor took proactive measures, purchasing two ships in readiness for a time when self-sufficiency might become a necessity, allowing Aden to maintain its access to essential supplies from India.
The key concern revolved around the anticipated Italian involvement in the war. The grand Italian liners, sailing eastward, were closely monitored as they entered and exited the safe haven of Aden’s harbour. The people of Aden watched these colossal vessels, carrying the potential for destruction, with bated breath, hopeful that their proximity to the safety of home waters would deter any hostile actions.
The war became an immediate and tangible presence in their lives. The invasion of Norway and the gravity of the international situation crystallised the urgency of the moment. Aden, once a tranquil port, had become a crucial strategic location in a world on the brink of global conflict. The sense of isolation dissipated, and the resolve to defend their city became unwavering.
Italian Air Raids
When the war did come, Aden was ready. The initial air raids by Italian forces were not without impact, leaving shallow craters in the rugged rock terrain. Aden experienced its first taste of wartime violence, and it became a focal point in the Italian propaganda, with reports of the city’s destruction recurring in their bulletins.
The Italian air raids that initially targeted Aden served as a stark reminder of the challenges faced, but the resilience of the community and their unwavering support for the British forces made a profound impact. As the war raged on, Aden found itself in the backwaters of the conflict, temporarily shielded from the front lines. The Italian threat was held at bay, allowing the people of Aden to regain a semblance of normalcy and the freedom to live their lives as they had before.
During the uncertainty and upheaval of the war, Aden remained an enduring symbol of resilience and determination in the face of adversity. The support of the local population was unwavering, reflecting their shared commitment to a common cause. In this turbulent period, Aden continued to stand as a beacon of hope and unity in a world consumed by conflict.
Yemeni Independence
With the shifting dynamics of the war and the subsequent retreat of the conflict from Aden’s immediate vicinity, Yemen was able to enjoy a period of relative independence, free from external threats. As the turmoil of World War II raged on in other parts of the world, Yemen found itself unburdened by the weight of war. The Italian medical mission, which had played a role in the events of the past, continued its work, focusing less on politics and more on providing medical care to those in need. Yemen’s independence remained unthreatened, allowing its people to live their lives without the looming spectre of war.
In the midst of global conflict during World War II, Yemen stood as a unique and complex backdrop to Freya Stark’s wartime experiences. Her remarkable journey through this diverse region, from Ta’iz to the outskirts of Aden, encapsulated a world in flux. Stark’s vivid descriptions and insightful observations provide us with a window into a time and place that has undergone significant changes since then.
Her exploration of Yemen, unearthing the historical, cultural, and geographic intricacies, paints a rich tapestry of a nation on the brink of transformation. Stark’s encounters with the Yemeni people, their resilience in the face of challenges, and their willingness to embrace change when the time came, showcase the human spirit’s enduring qualities. Through her vivid narratives and insightful reflections in her books, Freya Stark captures the essence of Yemen and its people, offering readers a window into the soul of this fascinating country. Her work not only documents her journey but also serves as a testament to the power of exploration and understanding, highlighting her significant contribution to travel literature and our appreciation of the world’s diverse cultures.