In the tumultuous backdrop of the 1930s, Freya Stark embarked on an extraordinary journey to Yemen. This remote and enigmatic region of the Arabian Peninsula was largely unexplored at the time, and its allure was heightened by the looming international conflicts. Stark’s expedition offered a glimpse into a world both ancient and ever-changing, where cultures collided and coexisted against the backdrop of global upheaval. Her travels and the subsequent writings capture not just the physical landscapes she traversed but also the vibrant tapestry of Yemeni society. Stark’s literary works on this expedition, by weaving together the threads of adventure, cultural insights, and historical contexts, enrich our understanding of this complex region. Through her eyes, we witness the resilience and richness of Yemen’s people and their culture, making her contributions to travel literature invaluable and timeless.
Arrival in Hodeida: A Multinational Oasis in Yemen
As Freya Stark’s journey unfolded, she arrived in the tranquil coastal town of Hodeida, nestled in southwestern Yemen. Here, a small European colony, comprising two Brits, two Italians, and four Greeks, lived harmoniously. Despite the turbulent international situation, they went about their daily lives, even finding time for bridge games in one another’s homes.
Stark’s visit coincided with February, a time when Hodeida was blessed with pleasant weather. The sea’s gentle breezes still kissed the town, making her stay enjoyable. As she strolled through the town’s silent, sandy streets, Stark observed the unique attire of the local women, who, in summer, sensibly donned a costume of a skirt and a short bolero to combat the scorching temperatures. Little did she know that her peaceful coastal interlude was just the beginning of a much more challenging journey that lay ahead.
The Treacherous Road from Hodeida to San’a
Departing from the coastal oasis of Hodeida, Freya Stark embarked on a treacherous journey inland toward Yemen’s capital, San’a. While there was a properly engineered road connecting the two towns, it presented a formidable challenge due to its steep gradients, resulting in frequent breakdowns of vehicles. Stark’s trusty Ford truck was no exception, as it succumbed to mechanical troubles in a swampy valley. The night was spent beneath the starlit sky, Stark cocooned in her sleeping sack while the devoted chauffeur and his team toiled by lantern light to repair their mode of transport. The path led them from sea level to the high plateau, situated at elevations between 7,000 to 8,000 feet, where starkly beautiful landscapes of terraced fields and villages welcomed them. The air grew cooler and invigorating as they approached their final destination, offering a stark contrast to the oppressive heat of Hodeida’s coastal plains. The stage was set for Stark’s arrival in the heart of Yemen, the historic city of San’a.
Residence in San’a
In San’a, Freya Stark found herself in the heart of Yemen’s political and cultural epicentre, a city of some 50,000 souls where history and tradition were palpable. The Imam Yahya, an autocratic temporal and spiritual ruler, reigned over this unique domain. Stark, a respectful and grateful visitor, marvelled at the Imam’s venerable figure, whose flowing silver beard contrasted with the green brocade of his gown. While she never directly conversed with the Imam due to his revered status and her gender, her written notes conveyed her desires, often receiving responses from the Imam himself, penned in red ink as a symbol of his Himyarite lineage.
As a distinguished guest in San’a, Stark was given a military guard, not so much for protection as for gathering information, and was invited to partake in the royal kitchen’s offerings for a minimum of three days. However, her extended stay led to ten days of royal hospitality, marking her presence as a welcome one in the eyes of the Imam. This period in San’a allowed Stark to delve into the cultural intricacies of the city, its diverse neighbourhoods, and its multifaceted populace. Amid the contrasting Jewish and Arab suburbs and the elegant homes of the Arab elite, Freya Stark established herself as a cultural emissary, extending her reach into the inner sanctums of the city’s grand residences, sharing the novel marvel of cinema with the people of San’a.
Her home in San’a provided Stark with panoramic views of cypress and almond trees in blossom, imbued with the essence of the city’s mediaeval charm. In this bustling yet timeless city, the Imam’s army became a symbol of his pride and power, with weekly manoeuvres outside the city walls witnessed by the Imam himself, marking his stalwart presence. For Freya Stark, San’a became a platform to appreciate and engage with Yemeni society, explore its unique architectural heritage, and test the waters with cinema showings that transcended language barriers.
Exploring the City of San’a
San’a, a city with its roots deep in history, offered Freya Stark a treasure trove of architectural and cultural wonders. Stark’s residence within this ancient city allowed her to explore the intricacies of San’a’s rich heritage and modern life. As she ventured into the heart of the city, Stark embarked on a journey of discovery that unfolded in various dimensions:
Architectural Splendors: Stark marvelled at the unique architecture that defined San’a’s character. The towering houses, many built with stone or mud brick, rose with a slight batter and reached for the skies. Their windows and cornices were adorned with intricate plaster ornaments, a reflection of the city’s long history and cultural influences.
The Bazaars of San’a: Stark explored the vibrant bazaars that stretched through the city, a hive of commerce and cultural exchange. These narrow, bustling streets were lined with shops and stalls, where traders offered a range of goods. Despite the simplicity of the marketplace, the bazaars were the lifeblood of the city, bringing together diverse elements of Yemeni society.
Traditional Societal Norms: The Yemeni society that unfolded before Stark was a fascinating blend of tradition and modernity. The society upheld rigid Islamic norms, which influenced daily life, from dress codes to daily routines. The women of San’a, swathed in veils and distinct attire, ventured out only with great caution.
Hospitality and Neighbors: Stark’s interactions with the local populace revealed the warm and hospitable nature of the Yemenis. She was invited into homes, dined with families, and shared moments of joy with the people of San’a. This exchange of cultures and stories deepened her connection with the city and its inhabitants.
San’a was a city where history and modernity coexisted, offering Freya Stark a remarkable backdrop for her explorations. Its architectural grandeur, bustling bazaars, traditional customs, and warm hospitality allowed her to immerse herself in the vibrant tapestry of Yemeni life and culture.
The Imam’s Military Parade
Every Friday morning, San’a came alive with the rhythmic sounds of military manoeuvres led by the esteemed Imam Yahya. Stark’s observations of this grand display of Yemeni military tradition and pride provided a unique insight into the Imam’s rule and the society’s connection with its armed forces:
Military Pageantry: The weekly military parade, presided over by the Imam, was a spectacle of considerable significance. Yemeni peasant soldiers, dressed in simple attire, marched with their weathered rifles and cartridge bandoliers in tow. The gathering, amid clouds of dust, was an embodiment of the nation’s martial spirit.
Diverse Officer Corps: The officer corps was an eclectic assembly of individuals, including elderly Turks who had found refuge on Yemeni soil. These former soldiers of the Ottoman Empire were a testament to the changing tides of empires. Despite their ageing appearances, they maintained their dignity and discipline.
The Imam’s Presence: Imam Yahya, a revered figure who embodied both spiritual and temporal authority, watched over the parade. With his silver beard and flowing brocaded gown, he symbolised the nation’s aspirations for independence. His presence, lurching in an old four-wheeled gharry, gave the event an air of sacred tradition.
Impressions and Ironies: Stark couldn’t help but notice the irony in the presence of the Imam and his armed forces. While the soldiers paraded with ageing weaponry, she realised the vulnerability of these forces in the face of modern mechanised warfare. The Imam’s pride in his army coexisted with the looming threat of obsolescence.
The military parade in San’a was a window into Yemen’s history, illustrating the nation’s historical struggles and the Imam’s commitment to safeguarding its sovereignty. Stark’s observations captured the complex blend of pride, tradition, and vulnerability that defined this weekly spectacle.
The Imam’s Palaces and the Lives of His Queens
Within the walls of San’a’s ancient heart, the Imam Yahya resided in two palaces, where a different world thrived behind the veiled windows. Stark delved into the intriguing lives of the Imam’s queens and their secluded existence:
The Imam’s Dual Residence: In the midst of the bustling city, the Imam maintained two separate palaces. The elder queen resided in one, while the youngest occupied the other. The division allowed the ladies to maintain their privacy while coming together when necessary.
A Shared Garden: The connecting thread between these two worlds was a picturesque garden. It was within this enclosed space that the two queens and their families could gather for conversations under the shade of almond trees and among flowering plants.
Seasonal Change: As the seasons shifted, so did the queens’ residences. When summer arrived, the ladies were transported to homes in the countryside. Despite the similarity of these abodes to their city dwellings, the change was viewed with the anticipation of a grand escape, akin to a modern-day relocation from a bustling metropolis to a serene countryside.
The Joys and Challenges: During her extended stay in San’a, Stark developed a genuine affection for the women living behind the high palace walls. Despite their sequestered lives, she found them to be joyful, affectionate, and remarkably entertaining, a testament to the human spirit’s ability to thrive even in restrictive conditions.
Stark’s exploration of the Imam’s palaces and the lives of his queens offered a glimpse into a world marked by secrecy, tradition, and the resilience of the human spirit, regardless of the restrictions imposed by society and history.
In conclusion, Freya Stark’s journey to Yemen during a turbulent period in the world’s history is a captivating tale of exploration, cultural immersion, and diplomacy. Her experiences in this distant land, veiled in ancient traditions, unveiled not only the country’s geographical wonders but also the complexities of its people’s lives. The narrative, set in a time when the world teetered on the brink of war, stands as a remarkable testament to Stark’s courage and resilience.
Stark’s exploration of Yemen’s unique landscape, historical sites, and its impenetrable mountains provided valuable insights into a region largely unknown to the Western world. Her interactions with the local population, from the rural communities to the grand palaces of the Imam, offered readers a vivid portrayal of the Yemeni way of life, their customs, and their rich heritage.
As we followed Stark on her journey through Yemen, we discovered that beneath the layers of tradition and isolation, the human spirit thrived. Stark’s interactions with the Imam, his queens, and the people of San’a reflected a world marked by confinement but filled with affection, humour, and a desire for connection.