Amongst the records of explorers and adventurers, Freya Stark stands as a luminary whose intrepid travels took her to the far reaches of the Middle East, unearthing the treasures of history and archaeology. Among the countries that held a special place in her heart, Iran emerged as a focal point of her curiosity and fascination. Over several journeys, she ventured into the depths of Iran, driven by a keen interest in its rich history and archaeological sites. Stark’s extensive travels and explorations in Iran and other parts of the Middle East were richly documented in her books, which not only reveal the regions’ hidden wonders but also showcase her profound understanding and appreciation of their cultures and histories.
One such historical gem that she unveiled was the Jameh Mosque of Saveh, an architectural masterpiece with a profound historical significance. In this article, we embark on a journey through one of Freya Stark’s explorations of Iran and the fascinating revelations that emerged from her encounters with the Jameh Mosque of Saveh, shedding light on a hidden treasure that has withstood the test of time.
Discovering Saveh and Its Hidden Treasure
Freya Stark’s tireless journeys into Iran unveiled the country’s hidden treasures, captivating her with its historical tapestry and archaeological wonders. Among the myriad gems she unearthed during her travels, the Jameh Mosque of Saveh emerged as a remarkable find. As Stark ventured deeper into the heart of Iran, her encounters with this architectural masterpiece would shed light on a hidden treasure with an intriguing history. The Jameh Mosque of Saveh, situated approximately 100km southwest of modern day Tehran, was constructed in the 12th century and offers a glimpse into the very foundation of the city and the secrets buried within its walls.
The Minaret of Saveh: A Forgotten Gem
The Encyclopedia of Islam acknowledges the existence of the minaret, attributing it to the Ghaznavid period. However, it is Freya Stark’s connection with a similar minaret at Khusrawgird in Khurasan that sheds new light on its dating. Comparing the two structures, Stark suggests that they share the same period, hinting at the minaret of Saveh’s antiquity.
The most intriguing revelation comes from the minaret’s inscription itself. The middle band of inscriptions had remained largely undiscovered until Stark’s visit. It corroborates the dating precisely, with mentions of titles and the name of the reigning prince at the time, Muhammad ibn Malikshah, dated A.D. 1117.
The Jameh Mosque of Saveh: A Glimpse into History
The Jameh Mosque of Saveh, an architectural marvel that would become a focal point of Freya Stark’s explorations, is rooted in the historical annals of Iran. This intricate masterpiece dates back to the 12th century, coinciding with the establishment of the city itself. As Stark delved into its history, she discovered the deep connection between the mosque and the city’s roots, recognizing that the mosque’s core was indeed constructed during the 12th century. However, it is not just the age of the mosque that captured her fascination; it is also the intricate details and architectural elements that revealed a deeper story. The very proportions of the mosque’s façade, seemingly of the early 16th century, aligned with systems of proportion established in the 12th century. The Jameh Mosque of Saveh holds within its walls a historical narrative that Stark would endeavour to unveil during her travels through the region.
Unearthing Ancient Inscriptions: Clues to the Past
As Freya Stark explored the Jameh Mosque of Saveh, she came to understand it concealed inscriptions that provided a window into the past. Stark’s keen eye discovered that several inscriptions within the mosque dated back to the 10th century, suggesting that the mosque might have been constructed on the foundations of an even older one. These inscriptions, etched in Kufic script, revealed sacred verses and historical details that intrigued Stark. As she meticulously examined these inscriptions, she began to piece together the puzzle of the mosque’s history, uncovering a narrative that extended back centuries.
The remarkable minaret bears three bands of script. The upper band, while only partially decipherable, includes the customary Islamic invocation, the basmala. The lower band, however, is unique, repeatedly emphasising the declaration that “Muhammad is the last of the prophets.”
Despite its age, the minaret of Saveh stands in a state of near-perfect preservation, save for a critical issue. The lower portion of the minaret, extending approximately ten feet from its base, faces imminent collapse. The structural integrity of this section has been undermined over the years as individuals in need of construction material removed bricks. The situation is dire, and swift action is needed to ensure the preservation of this historical gem.
Architectural Marvels of the Jameh Mosque
The Jameh Mosque of Saveh isn’t merely a repository of historical inscriptions; it stands as an architectural marvel that has withstood the test of time. Stark’s explorations led her to discover the intricate design and structure of the mosque. This Seljuk-era mosque comprises a courtyard, a minaret, and a range of architectural elements that reflect the era of its construction. It boasts two archaic altars adorned with inscriptions in Kufic script and Safavid-era altars with Thuluth script. The mosque’s design showcases the craftsmanship of the past, with an elevated porch and chambers on its western front. The majestic dome, with a diameter of 14 meters and a height of 16 meters, showcases exquisite tilework that captivated Stark’s artistic sensibilities. Additionally, the minaret of the mosque, though only one remains standing today, is a testament to the architectural excellence of the Seljuk period. Its raised brick patterns and inscriptions in Kufic and Naskhi scripts make it an outstanding relic from that era. Stark’s journey through the architectural wonders of the Jameh Mosque of Saveh opened a window to the past, allowing her to marvel at the craftsmanship and design of this historical gem.
Beacon of Heritage Preservation
The Jameh Mosque of Saveh stands not only as a testament to the past but also as a symbol of heritage preservation. Freya Stark’s exploration of this historical site revealed a stark reality—the base of the minaret had been undermined by the removal of bricks, leaving it in a precarious state. The minaret, a jewel of Seljuk architecture, had suffered damage over the centuries, and the upper section was missing. Stark recognized the need for restoration to ensure its preservation for future generations. During her visit to Saveh, she learned of the efforts initiated by the Amercian Architecture historian Mr. Upham Pope, to fund the restoration, a cause that would safeguard this architectural treasure. In this section, we delve into the significance of heritage preservation and the ongoing efforts to protect the Jameh Mosque of Saveh, ensuring that it continues to stand as a beacon of Iran’s rich cultural heritage.
Restoration and Future Prospects
Freya Stark’s visit to Saveh in 1931 shed light on the urgent need for restoration. At that time, no progress had been made towards preserving the minaret. Access to the site is challenging, requiring several hours of driving on a rough road from Qum. Stark underscores the significance of Saveh in history, as it was once a prominent city on the Silk Route. However, as the path of the Silk Route shifted northward during the Mongol era, Saveh and its neighbouring town, Aveh, gradually declined into insignificance.
The remnants of Saveh’s ancient city walls still trace an outline beneath the surface, far beyond the boundaries of the current habitation. Stark notes that the old city is mostly outside the modern town, making it a prime candidate for archaeological exploration, with minimal modern construction having occurred over the past five centuries.
Freya Stark’s Enduring Legacy
In the realm of travel and exploration, few individuals have left as indelible a mark as Freya Stark. Her multiple journeys to Iran, her deep fascination with its history and archaeological sites, and her meticulous exploration of the Jameh Mosque of Saveh exemplify her dedication to uncovering the past. Through her keen observations, Stark unearthed not only architectural beauty but also the hidden inscriptions that shed light on centuries of history.
The Jameh Mosque of Saveh, a Seljuk-era marvel, serves as a silent witness to the passage of time and the enduring legacy of the people who built it. Stark’s journey through this historical monument illuminated the architectural excellence of the Seljuk period, as evidenced by the minaret’s raised brick patterns and inscriptions.
However, her exploration did not end with mere admiration; it extended to a commitment to heritage preservation. The precarious state of the minaret’s base was a stark reminder of the need to protect these cultural treasures. Mr. Upham Pope’s efforts to fund the restoration of the minaret exemplify the ongoing commitment to safeguarding the past.
Freya Stark’s legacy extends far beyond her lifetime. Her work in Iran and her passion for unravelling history continue to inspire archaeologists, historians, and travellers to this day. As the Jameh Mosque of Saveh stands the test of time, it carries forward Stark’s spirit of exploration and preservation, ensuring that the echoes of the past continue to resonate in the present and future.