In the annals of travel literature, Freya Stark is celebrated for her intrepid journeys across Arabian lands. Her vivid narratives of the Middle East have captivated readers for decades. However, lesser known are her equally fascinating adventures in the rugged terrain of Iran. Here, we delve into a chapter of Stark’s travels that takes us deep into the heart of Iran, where her insatiable curiosity led her on a quest to unearth the ruins of an ancient Assassin castle, Lambesar. This quest unfolded in the captivating and challenging landscape of the Shah Rud Valley, offering a glimpse into Stark’s unyielding spirit and her passion for unraveling history’s mysteries.
Discovering the Shah Rud Valley
Freya Stark’s odyssey in the Shah Rud Valley began as an intriguing quest. Amidst the striking landscape Freya Stark found herself tracing the steps of an elusive castle, Lambesar. As she journeyed through this enchanting terrain, Stark encountered the indomitable Kurds, the inhabitants of the region. These hardy people, with their own unique language and way of life, have made this rugged landscape their home for over a century. Stark marveled at their resilience and resourcefulness as they flourished amidst the natural challenges presented by the valley’s beauty and harshness.
Encounter with the Kurdish Inhabitants
The Shah Rud Valley, with its austere beauty and formidable challenges, serves as the ancestral home to the remarkable Kurdish inhabitants. These resilient people bear the weight of centuries in their stoic countenances, their faces reminiscent of the Aryan depictions found on the Persepolis friezes. Stark vividly portrayed these individuals who have called the valley home for generations, preserving their distinctive culture and identity amidst the valley’s majestic yet unforgiving environment.
Their Unique Language and Way of Life
One of the most intriguing aspects of the Kurds in the Shah Rud Valley is their distinct language, a testament to their isolation from the outside world. Stark delved into their linguistic uniqueness, highlighting the beauty of a language untouched by widespread globalization. Their way of life, deeply entwined with the natural rhythms of the valley, captivated her attention, providing a glimpse into a world far removed from the bustling cities.
Survival Amidst the Valley’s Challenges
The Shah Rud Valley, with its stark contrasts of beauty and harshness, has not been a forgiving home for its inhabitants. Yet, the Kurdish people have demonstrated a remarkable ability to thrive in the face of these challenges. Stark marveled at their resourcefulness, offering an intimate portrayal of how they have conquered the valley’s natural adversities to make it their own for more than a century.
Lambesar and Its Historical Significance
Lambesar, a fortress of captivating antiquity, is perched along the banks of the Nainarud stream, framed by the striking backdrop of crimson-hued cliffs and arid valleys. The castle’s historical importance dates back to eras long past, where it held a pivotal role in the annals of Iranian history. As we venture into Freya Stark’s expedition, it’s imperative to unravel the layers of historical significance that have cloaked this enigmatic stronghold for centuries.
As Freya Stark embarked on her extraordinary journey to Lambesar, the rugged Iranian terrain stretched out before her, promising both challenges and discoveries. With a group of local guides by her side, she set out on a remarkable expedition that would take her through the heart of this arid and enigmatic region.
The path they trod led them across undulating red-stubbled hills and through narrow, sun-baked valleys. The journey was as much a test of endurance as it was a quest for knowledge. As they made their way through these unforgiving landscapes, they were confronted with the harsh realities of the environment, where nature’s elements had etched their indelible mark.
The companionship of the local guides added a layer of authenticity to the journey. Their insights, passed down through generations, wove together the threads of the land’s history, culture, and traditions. It was through these guides that Stark gained a deeper understanding of the region’s people and their enduring connection to this ancient land.
The choice of route was not without its challenges. As they traversed the terrain, they encountered ricefields that extended from the estuary of the Nainarud, part of the Shahristan villages. The vastness of these fields, coupled with the harsh landscape, posed formidable obstacles to their progress.
In the pursuit of their destination, they pushed onwards and upwards. The landscape’s unyielding nature soon became evident as they approached Lambesar, a fortress perched on a hill of blackish rock, where even the hardy mules that accompanied them reached their limits.
Leaving the mules behind, the group ascended a steep slope adorned with pomegranate bushes, making their way toward the western gate of the fortress. The walls of Lambesar, while no longer wholly intact, maintained a stern watch over the surroundings, casting an imposing shadow over the historical landscape.
As we follow in Stark’s footsteps, we gain a profound sense of the challenges and beauty of this journey through rugged landscapes, where each step is a testament to human determination and the allure of discovery.
Lambesar Castle: A Ruin with a Story
Lambesar Castle, or Lamiasar, comes into focus as the expedition nears its destination. Stark and her companions stood at the gates of this ancient fortress, and it is here that the true adventure begins. Lambesar’s architecture and historical significance unfold as they explore its ancient walls, crumbling battlements, and the sprawling ruins that echo with the whispers of a bygone era.
While the castle’s walls atop their rocky hill may have succumbed to time, their remnants and the valley below continue to captivate with their fierce and somber grandeur. These are the kinds of places that even artists like Dürer might have etched, devoid of softness or verdant surroundings, characterized by high buttresses and imposing precipices alone.
The battlements that once graced Lambesar’s crest have eroded, but their presence still commands attention from a distance. They follow the contours of the truncated cone-shaped hill and enclose a sloping surface approximately 1,500 feet in length and 600 feet in width. It is upon this surface that the remnants of ancient buildings are scattered, each one offering a piece of the castle’s enigmatic history.
While Lambesar’s long western side relies on natural precipices as a formidable defense, small towers once stood strategically on out-jutting points, creating a chain of watchtowers. On the southern and eastern fronts, the fortifications still hold. Built with rough stones sourced from the hillside, these walls exhibit variations in the sizes of stones, suggesting construction at different points in time. Their alignment with the natural hillside’s contours brings to mind early fortifications, reminiscent of the works of Vauban long before his time. However, this design posed a challenge to attackers as it exposed their flanks at numerous points.
The northern approach, on the other hand, was a strategic weak point for defense. Here, a narrow neck connects the castle to the mountain behind it, and it was also the location of the water conduit descending from the upper village of Viar. While no evidence of an outer fortification or ditch protecting the northern gate remains visible, the obliteration of some of this section suggests a robust defense strategy. The capture of this height would have meant control over the entire castle enclosure, sloping downhill and vulnerable to the attacker.
To the south, the lower-preserved southern gate stands as a testament to the castle’s architectural complexity. It is 500 feet lower than the northern gate and opens westward, leading to a turn north-west into the enclosure. The significant difference in level between the inner and outer gates, along with their substantial doorways made of sizable squared stones, adds to the architectural intrigue of Lambesar.
Water Supply Systems and Cisterns
Amidst the remnants of Lambesar’s ancient architecture, Freya Stark and her companions discovered an intricate web of water supply systems. The castle’s engineers had devised ingenious solutions to address the challenges of sustaining life in this arid landscape. As we explore the remains of cisterns, leats, and water management, we gain insight into the practicality and resilience of the castle’s inhabitants.
The leat that originated from Viar wound its way down to the castle through the northern neck, supplying rectangular cisterns carved into the solid rock. Approximately six by two by two yards deep, these cisterns, with their striking size and design, were instrumental in storing and managing the precious resource. Stark and her companions counted three of these just beyond the castle walls on the north and east sides. In times of siege, numerous similar cisterns, varying in design from those lined with mortar and masonry to those merely carved into the rock, ensured that water was readily available within the castle’s defenses. This comprehensive network of cisterns would have provided the means to withstand prolonged sieges and sustain life within Lambesar.
While Lambesar’s walls and structures have eroded, the infrastructure of its water management system still bears witness to the ingenious engineering skills of its builders. The presence of drainage holes on the outer faces of the ramparts, aligned with the present ground level, attests to the efficient collection and storage of water.
The eastern rampart of the castle, situated halfway down its length and close to the outer cisterns, reveals the existence of a covered way. It measures three feet in width and features arched masonry about a foot thick, leading to a tower ten feet square at the water’s edge. While now filled with earth, the remains of the passage suggest a complex water supply system, likely built in rough steps to accommodate the steep gradient of the hill.
Curiously, the locals refer to this passage as the “Gurg-u-Mish,” or “Wolf-and-Ram,” recounting a tale where rams were led through the passage with water skins tied under their bellies, followed by wolves. Frightened by the pursuing wolves and with no escape from the narrow way, the rams are said to have rushed uphill, supplying the castle with water. This intriguing local tradition adds a layer of folklore to the castle’s already enigmatic history.
Freya Stark’s Insights
Within the rugged walls of Lambesar and amid the ancient cisterns that once quenched the thirst of its inhabitants, Freya Stark found herself immersed in a world of discovery. Her keen observations and insatiable curiosity illuminated the historical tapestry of the castle and the region it guarded. As we follow Stark’s journey, we gain access to her unique insights, which offer a vivid window into the past.
Stark’s documentation of Lambesar, with its eroded walls and crumbling battlements, holds a mirror to the challenges faced by both the builders of the castle and those who inhabited it. Her perceptive eye captured the essence of the fortress’s architecture, allowing us to envision its grandeur in its prime, while also providing a glimpse of its gradual decline over the centuries.
Yet, Stark’s exploration was not confined to the physical aspects of Lambesar alone. She was equally interested in the people who lived in the shadow of this ancient stronghold. Through her interactions with the locals and the narratives she collected, she painted a rich portrait of the region’s inhabitants, showcasing their enduring connection to the land and their unwavering resilience.
Stark’s writings and observations serve as a bridge between the past and the present, offering modern readers a tantalizing glimpse into a time when Lambesar was more than just ruins, and the land around it teemed with life and stories. Her unique ability to intertwine history with the present allows us to appreciate the enduring mystique of this ancient castle and the region it commands.
Stark’s Enduring Influence
Freya Stark’s journey to Lambesar Castle in the Valley of the Assassins and her wider explorations in the Arab countries have left an indelible mark on the realm of travel literature. Her unique blend of intrepid exploration, evocative storytelling, and keen insights into the regions she traversed have set a standard that endures to this day. Her ability to bring distant lands to life through the written word is a testament to the power of her writing.
Stark’s impact extends beyond her contemporaries and has inspired generations of explorers, adventurers, and writers. Her work continues to serve as both a source of historical documentation and a wellspring of inspiration for those who seek to understand the world through the lens of travel.