In the early 20th century, Harry St. John Philby embarked on an extraordinary journey through the heart of Saudi Arabia, an adventure chronicled in his book, “Heart of Arabia.” Philby’s exploration took him through the vast deserts and rugged landscapes of the Arabian Peninsula, from the fort of Khuzam and bustling markets of Hufuf to the austere streets of Riyadh. His travels not only traversed the geographical expanse of Saudi Arabia but also delved into the cultural tapestry and the daily lives of its people, including interactions with various tribes such as the ‘Anaiza and encounters with the natural wildlife that thrives in the harsh desert environment. Philby’s narrative serves as a window into the Saudi Arabia of the past, offering insights into its complex society, the challenges of desert navigation, and the profound beauty of its landscapes.
Departure From Hufuf
Philby’s expedition began with a departure from the fort of Khuzam, located within the vicinity of Hufuf, marking the commencement of a journey that would take him deep into the uncharted territories of Saudi Arabia. The caravan, laden with supplies and accompanied by camels that had “last tasted water at the wells of Ruqaiqa,” ventured into the arid expanse, setting the stage for an exploration filled with uncertainties and the promise of discovery. The initial leg of the journey was fraught with challenges, as the caravan navigated a “steep descent over a boulder-strewn incline,” a vivid testament to the rugged terrain that characterizes much of the Arabian Peninsula. This phase of the journey underscored the harsh realities of desert travel, where every step forward was earned through perseverance and the careful management of scarce resources like water. Philby’s description of the caravan’s laborious movement, “From ledge to ledge the weary animals laboured,” captures the physical demands placed on both the travelers and their beasts of burden as they made their way through the unforgiving landscape.
Arrival at The Wells of Abu Jifan
Upon reaching Abu Jifan, Philby and his companions were greeted by the sight of a deep gorge, within which lay the much-anticipated wells that had occupied their thoughts during the arduous journey. The presence of these wells, a vital source of water in the desert, signified a moment of relief and replenishment for both the travelers and their camels. Philby notes the bustling activity around the wells, where “busy hands of those who had preceded us were already at work drawing water and filling the stone-bordered earthen troughs.” This scene not only illustrates the communal effort required to sustain life in such a harsh environment but also the shared understanding among travelers of the desert’s challenges.
The encounter with another party bound for Hasa, who had finished their watering and were preparing to depart, highlights the transient nature of such meetings in the desert. These brief interactions were crucial for the exchange of news and information, serving as a lifeline for navigating the vast and unpredictable terrain. Philby’s observation of the camaraderie and mutual assistance among desert travelers underscores the sense of community that emerges in the face of adversity. The strategic significance of the wells at Abu Jifan, offering a rare respite and gathering point, becomes evident as Philby describes the scene: “Another party bound for the Hasa were still in the place, but had finished their watering, and only delayed their start to give and receive such news as there was to exchange.” This passage not only captures the essence of the desert’s challenges but also the enduring human spirit that navigates through them.
Encounters Along the Way
As Philby’s expedition progressed, encounters with other travelers and caravans added layers of cultural and social depth to the journey. One such significant encounter was with a large caravan from Qasim, making its weary way eastward towards Bahrain. This caravan, led by a wealthy ‘Anaiza merchant accompanied by his family, epitomized the vibrant trade routes that crisscrossed the Arabian Peninsula. These routes were not merely pathways through the desert but lifelines that connected distant communities, facilitated commerce, and enabled cultural exchanges. The encounter provided a glimpse into the nomadic lifestyle and the economic activities that sustained the people of the desert.
The strategic stop at Raudhat al Dhulla, a bush-clad bottom and a favored resting place for caravans, further highlighted the importance of specific locations in the vast desert. These spots, known for their relative abundance of water and vegetation, served as crucial waypoints for travelers. Philby’s narrative, “This is a favourite mubarraz or breathing-place for caravans,” underscores the significance of such oases in the rhythm of desert travel. They were not only places to replenish water supplies but also opportunities for rest, socialization, and the exchange of information among caravan participants and with those they met along the way.
Terrain and Geography
The Arabian Peninsula’s landscape, as traversed by Philby, was a testament to the diverse and challenging terrain that characterizes this vast region. The journey took them through undulating steppes and boulder-strewn hummocks, revealing the rugged beauty and daunting obstacles of the desert environment. Philby’s description of the approach to the headland of Khashm Ausa’, with its sudden appearance and the deep gorge running southwest, exemplifies the dramatic geographical features encountered. This varied topography not only challenged the travelers physically but also shaped their experiences and interactions with the landscape.
2Wildlife Encounters
The expedition’s passage through these landscapes was accompanied by encounters with the native wildlife, adding a vivid layer to Philby’s narrative. The sighting of a great wolf and gazelles, as well as the less fortunate encounter with a lesser bustard, highlighted the rich biodiversity that thrives in the harsh desert conditions. These moments, where the travelers crossed paths with the inhabitants of the desert, underscored the coexistence of human and animal life in this extreme environment. Philby’s observation, “Here was grass, green grass, in plenty and scattered bushes of stunted acacia; ever and anon the green was broken by a band of black, some torrent channel sweeping down from the ‘Arma precipice across the plain,” captures the stark contrasts and surprising vitality of the desert ecosystem.
Watering at Abu Jifan
The respite at Abu Jifan, marked by the replenishing of the caravan’s water supplies, stands out as a pivotal moment in Philby’s journey. The act of watering the camels, an essential task for survival in the desert, was executed with a sense of urgency and communal effort. Philby vividly describes this scene: “the weary animals laboured with a heavy jerking motion down the steep boulder-strewn incline to the wells.” This image not only highlights the physical exertion required to navigate the terrain but also the relief found at these rare water sources.
The caravan’s arrival at Abu Jifan underscores the oasis’s importance as a lifeline for travelers in the desert. The busy hands filling the stone-bordered earthen troughs symbolize the sustenance and hope that such places offer. However, it was not just the physical thirst that was quenched here; the wells also served as a social hub, a place where news was exchanged, and bonds were formed or renewed among the travelers. The communal aspect of drawing water and sharing information reflects the deeply ingrained social codes that govern life in these harsh environments.
Philby and his companions took their ease under the “shade of a great ledge of overhanging rock,” a brief respite that allowed them to gather strength for the journey ahead. This moment of pause in the narrative serves as a reminder of the small comforts sought and found by desert travelers. The description of the ravine of Abu Jifan, with its deep clefts and the precious wells nestled within, paints a vivid picture of the oasis as a sanctuary amidst the vastness of the desert.
Transition Through the Turabi Plain
The expedition’s progression into the Turabi Plain marked a significant transition in the landscape and the challenges faced by Philby and his caravan. This segment of the journey, moving from the arid conditions near Abu Jifan to the more verdant expanses of the plain, highlighted the diverse geography of the Arabian Peninsula. The plain offered a welcome change from the earlier, more desolate stretches of desert, with Philby noting the presence of “grass, green grass, in plenty and scattered bushes of stunted acacia.” This observation underscores the patchwork nature of the desert environment, where areas of relative fertility can abruptly give way to barren sands.
Final Stages Towards Riyadh
The concluding leg of Philby’s expedition saw the caravan drawing ever closer to Riyadh, navigating through the landscape with a renewed sense of anticipation. As they camped near the head
land of Khashm Ausa’ under the clear light of the full moon, the expedition experienced the calm before the final push towards their destination. This period of the journey was marked by a shift in the climate; gentle northerly breezes that had once offered respite from the sun’s fierce heat gave way to the warm and steady Kos, a south wind that momentarily raised temperatures and challenged the travelers’ endurance.
Philby’s reflection on the weather’s sudden change, where the temperature “jumped up to 73-4° at the same time on the night of our camping in Turabi,” illustrates the unpredictability of the desert climate, a constant companion throughout their journey. Despite these challenges, the caravan’s spirits were buoyed by the knowledge that they were nearing Riyadh, a city that represented both the culmination of their physical journey and a significant cultural and spiritual waypoint.
The approach to Riyadh involved traversing the ‘Arma and Jubail steppes, landscapes that offered their own unique challenges and beauties. The rugged terrain, characterized by steep escarpments and deep gorges, tested the caravan’s resolve and the durability of their camels. Yet, these natural barriers also provided dramatic vistas and a tangible sense of progress as they were navigated and left behind.
Reflections and Preparations for Arrival in Riyadh
As Philby and his caravan neared Riyadh, a city emblematic of puritanical spiritualism in contrast to Hufuf’s heterodox materialism, the expedition’s tone shifted towards introspection and preparation. Philby’s contemplation of the stark differences between Riyadh and Hufuf encapsulates the broader cultural and religious diversities within Saudi Arabia. He describes Riyadh as a “bulwark of puritan spiritualism,” a place where the “eternal round of prayer” is rigorously enforced, and practices such as smoking are zealously persecuted. This reflection not only anticipates the cultural shift awaiting the caravan in Riyadh but also highlights the adaptability required to navigate the varied social landscapes of the Arabian Peninsula.
In preparation for entering the Wahhabi capital, Philby penned a letter to Ibn Sa’ud, informing the ruler of their imminent arrival. This act of courtesy and diplomacy underscores the importance of formal protocols and respect for authority within the region. Moreover, it signifies Philby’s awareness of the political and social sensitivities encountered when traveling in such a historically and religiously significant area.
The caravan’s approach to Riyadh was marked not just by physical movement but by a transition into a space defined by its religious and cultural stringency. Philby’s narrative at this juncture serves as a prelude to the culmination of a journey that was as much about exploring the geographical heart of Arabia as it was about understanding its spiritual and cultural core. The anticipation of arriving in Riyadh, coupled with reflections on the journey thus far, set the stage for the expedition’s final chapter in the Arabian desert.
Approach and Arrival in Riyadh
On the final day of November, Philby and his expedition were astir with the dawn, ready to undertake the last segment of their journey. Leaving the baggage train to follow, they set out with a small party towards Riyadh, their anticipation palpable. The landscape continued to challenge them with its rising slopes and valleys, yet each step brought them closer to their goal. Upon reaching the summit of the Duraibat al Khail, a collective exclamation marked their achievement: “La ilaha illa ‘llah! La ilaha illa ‘llah!” Before them lay Riyadh, its gardens a swath of emerald in the grey valley, and the clay towers of the capital emerging through a palm-fringed haze.
This moment of arrival was not merely a geographical conquest but a culmination of experiences, challenges, and the diverse tapestry of Arabian landscapes they had traversed. The sight of Riyadh’s gardens and the distant silhouette of its buildings symbolized the end of a journey through the physical and cultural heartland of Saudi Arabia. Philby’s description of this moment captures the essence of discovery and the profound impact of reaching a destination that had long been the focus of their aspirations.
The caravan’s approach into Riyadh was met with a mix of trepidation and excitement. The city stood as a testament to the Wahhabi creed’s unyielding spirit, a stark contrast to the varied environments and communities Philby had encountered. This final entry into Riyadh was not just a physical arrival but a significant cultural and historical intersection, marking the end of an extraordinary expedition through the heart of Arabia.