In the late 19th century, Charles Doughty embarked on a daring expedition through the Nefud Desert, an imposing and vast terrain located in what is now modern-day northern Saudi Arabia. This desolate region extended as far as the eye could discern, stretching across a vast expanse of approximately 40,000 square miles. The Nefud featured an undulating landscape with long, sinuous sandbanks that seemed to continue indefinitely. The local inhabitants, according to Doughty, with their unique understanding of the shifting sands, employed distinct terminology such as “adanat” and “kethib” to articulate the intricate nature of the Nefud’s topography. Within the harsh confines of this arid landscape, Doughty encountered the term “Jtirda” or “Jorda” used by the locals to describe dunes and hillocks. These formations bore clay-seams, sand, stones, and occasionally hosted tenacious desert vegetation. As Doughty ventured further into this desolate terrain, he was struck by the conspicuous absence of any footprints, whether of man or cattle, in the recently wind- and rain-blotted sand, underscoring the Nefud’s remote and unforgiving character.
Amidst the challenges of the Nefud Desert, Charles Doughty also encountered unique forms of vegetation in this arid expanse. The Nefud was not entirely devoid of life, and the hardy flora that managed to survive under such harsh conditions fascinated him. While traveling through the Nefud, Doughty observed the presence of desert vegetation, including the canker-weed. Although considered unwholesome by the local Arabs, the canker-weed could be found proliferating in the arid terrain. Doughty’s keen eye extended to the camels, as he noticed their grazing behaviour when they encountered this particular plant. The Nefud’s vegetation, although sparse, was a testament to life’s resilience in the most unlikely of places, offering a stark contrast to the vast stretches of shifting sand and arid desolation that dominated the landscape.
Navigating the Nefud: Challenges and Preparations
As Charles Doughty ventured through the unforgiving Nefud Desert, he encountered a series of challenges and made crucial preparations to navigate this arid wilderness. The road leading to Aneyza, situated in the heart of modern day Saudi Arabia and his intended destination, was far from a well-trodden path; instead, it resembled a deep-worn drift-way that meandered through the uneven Nefud terrain. Recognizing the potential dangers, Doughty and his guide, Hasan, decided to deviate from the path, a strategic choice aimed at avoiding Bedouins who harboured hostility towards travellers associated with Boreyda.
Amidst the arid vastness, Doughty’s observant nature led him to notice the presence of canker-weed, a type of vegetation that the local Arabs considered unwholesome. This hardy desert plant presented a curious spectacle as camels grazed upon it, defying the belief in its harmful properties. The journey was further punctuated by a halt at a stone trough (sebil), thoughtfully set by a landowner. However, the trough lay dry and abandoned, testament to the dwindling number of travellers crossing this desolate route.
The landscape held echoes of activity, with the faint sounds of well-wheels creaking and the distant voices of harvesters in a nearby field, suggesting the persistence of life in this harsh environment. With the sun casting its relentless rays, Hasan suggested they rest in the shade during the hottest part of the day and prepare for the ongoing journey to Aneyza, knowing that the scorching desert required both respite and readiness for the challenges that lay ahead.
Interactions with Bedouin Tribes and Culture
The Nefud Desert bore a historical legacy of Bedouin presence, a stark testament to the resilient nomadic communities that had thrived in this unforgiving terrain for generations. As Charles Doughty embarked on his arduous journey, he found himself in the midst of the local Bedouin people, whose lives were intricately woven with the desert’s harsh tapestry. These encounters offered him a unique window into their nomadic way of life, their customs, and their interactions with the shifting sands that surrounded them.
Among the notable aspects of Bedouin culture in the Nefud was the intricate web of tribal alliances. Doughty observed that great tribes, such as Meteyr and Ateyba, had forged alliances with Zamil, the Emir of Aneyza. Despite the complexities of these tribal dynamics, Doughty held a distinctive impression of Zamil, who was reputed to be both a “good gentleman” and, paradoxically, a perceived tyrant by some. This nuanced perspective revealed the multifaceted nature of leadership and reputation in the desert.
During his journey, Doughty also encountered a nomad child diligently tending to a flock of sheep. This brief yet poignant interaction served as a reminder of the human presence amidst the vast desolation, a testament to the enduring spirit of those who called the Nefud their home.
As the expedition continued, Hasan, the trusted guide, played a pivotal role in ensuring their survival. His departure to water the camel and the careful attention given to the waterskin (girby) underscored the vital role of these provisions in their arduous journey. The desert’s unforgiving nature demanded vigilance and preparation, and Doughty’s decision to ensure Hasan left his spear behind was an act of prudence, safeguarding against potential complications in a land that held both wonder and peril.
Discovering Hidden Treasures in the Nefud
Amid the seemingly desolate Nefud, Charles Doughty’s journey unveiled hidden treasures that added depth to his exploration of this enigmatic landscape. These discoveries held testament to the persistence of life in the heart of the desert.
In the midst of the arid terrain, Doughty and Hasan came upon a wadi bottom, where they were greeted by the sight of an oozing water source, its flow minimal but vital. The crossing of this wadi involved navigating through trickling water, a precious commodity in the unforgiving desert. This encounter served as a stark reminder of the preciousness of water sources in the Nefud and the careful utilisation of these lifelines.
It was during this leg of the journey that Doughty identified their location as “Wady er-Kummah.” The presence of palm wood in this harsh environment showcased the human endeavour to harness and cultivate nature’s bounty. The young palm sets were meticulously watered by hand, a labour-intensive process that continued until the plants established roots in the saltish ground moisture. This practice emphasised the perseverance of those who called this land home and their symbiotic relationship with the environment.
As they ventured further, Doughty’s keen eye spotted a high-built court wall, a structure that served as a shelter for what Doughty, in his characteristic archaic style, refers to as husbandmen during times of alarm. This fortification spoke to the ongoing challenges faced by the desert dwellers, where protection from external threats was a perpetual concern.
The reference to Ibn Rashid’s tents, a reminder of a past expedition into this formidable terrain, hinted at the historical significance of the Nefud. It was a place where alliances and conflicts played out, where leaders and their legacies were forged in the crucible of the desert.
Ibn Rashid, mentioned in Charles Doughty’s account, was a significant historical figure in the Arabian Peninsula. He was the leader of the Rashidi dynasty, which held power mainly in the northern parts of present-day Saudi Arabia during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Ibn Rashid was involved in various conflicts and alliances with neighbouring tribes and regions, and his presence in the Nefud Desert, as noted by Doughty, underscores the complex geopolitical landscape of the Arabian Peninsula during that time.
Doughty’s journey continued, and as he pushed beyond the palms, he found the Nefud’s expanse to be unyielding. The landscape, ever-shifting and unforgiving, presented both challenges and opportunities to those who traversed it.
In this daunting context, Doughty made a fateful decision to arm himself, a testament to the uncertainties that lay ahead in a land known for its fanaticism and unpredictable nature. In an act laden with symbolism, he tore his maps into small pieces, shedding his identity as a traveller marked by letters and literature. This drastic gesture was born out of the need to avoid suspicion among the lettered citizens of the Nefud, where discretion often held the key to survival.