Freya Stark, a name synonymous with intrepid exploration and evocative travel writing, remains one of the most influential figures in the world of adventure and literature. Born in 1893, this British explorer embarked on daring journeys into the heart of the Middle East, unveiling the mysteries of ancient civilizations and cultures that had long captured the world’s imagination.
Stark’s captivating book, “The Valley of the Assassins,” shares her enthralling experiences during her travels in Western Iran. Stark’s writings not only serve as a treasure trove of historical and cultural insights but also offer a glimpse into the complexities of life in the region during the early 20th century.
The Noisy Night in the Hindimini Tribe’s Camp
In the heart of rural Iran, amid the rugged terrain and timeless landscapes, Freya Stark found herself immersed in a night unlike any other. Stark’s unparalleled ability to capture the essence of her surroundings allows us to step into the camp of a Luristani tribe known as the Hindimini, on a night filled with its own unique symphony.
The darkness of the night was punctuated by a cacophony of sounds that only added to the mystique of the moment. The dogs, perhaps the most vigilant guardians of the camp, darted about in a frenzy. Their unearthly yells echoed through the night, serving as a stark reminder of the wildness that still existed beyond the campfires.
Adding to the nocturnal chorus were the relentless crowing of roosters, their calls a testament to the passing hours. It was as if time itself had taken on an audible form, ticking away in the form of crowing cocks. Amidst this aural backdrop, the previously introduced Itinerant Indian Dervish prepared for an upcoming journey. Their quiet determination in the midst of such commotion speaks volumes about the resilience and adaptability required in their nomadic way of life.
Before the first light of dawn, the women of the camp embarked on their daily ritual, venturing down the hill with goatskins in hand to fetch water. The arduous task of providing for the camp, even before the break of day, highlights the ceaseless dedication of these women to their community’s well-being.
As Stark awoke to this vivid orchestration of life, she found herself in the presence of her travel companion, the enigmatic “Philosopher”, whose lanky figure was adorned with her Burberry. Against the canvas of the morning sky, he was already deep in prayer, a poignant reminder of the spiritual dimension woven into the tapestry of the Middle East.
Rural Carpet Weaving Culture in Iran
In the heart of the Western Zagros Mountain range , Freya Stark’s explorations led her to an enchanting encounter with the rich tapestry of culture that adorned the Hindimini camp. At the heart of this culture lay the art of carpet weaving, a craft that bore the marks of tradition and history.
Stark’s narrative introduces us to a remarkable loom, a structure that stood tall outside one of the tents, its presence almost gallows-like in the half-light. Fashioned from the rough branches of oak trees, this loom held a significance that extended beyond its utilitarian purpose. It was a symbol of the enduring connection between the tribes people and their ancestral craftsmanship.
On a high bench beside the loom, young girls took their places, their nimble fingers weaving intricate patterns into the fabric. Stark’s mention of their assumed terror at the sight of her camera hints at the convergence of modernity and tradition in this remote setting. Despite their apprehension, the women of Hindimini exuded an unmistakable sense of gaiety, a manifestation of the ancient paganism that still whispered through their hearts.
In this camp of the Hindimini I saw for the first time the loom which the tribespeople erect for the weaving of their carpets. It stood outside one of the tents, tall enough almost for a gallows and looking not unlike one in the half light. It was an upright square made roughly out of the branches of oak trees, at which on a high bench the young girls sat. They fled with assumed terror from my camera, but I think the Hindimini still have some touch of the old paganism in their hearts, and the women show it by a gayer ease of manner than is usual in strict Islam.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
The Mysterious Graves
Our journey with Freya Stark through the pages of “The Valley of the Assassins” continues as we venture into the enigmatic terrain surrounding the Hindimini camp. Here, the hills whispered secrets of civilizations long past, and the presence of graves added to the intrigue.
The graves that dotted the landscape near the campsite were an enigma, shrouded in ambiguity. Stark’s narrative leaves us in a state of contemplation, as we, like her, ponder the nature and origins of these resting places. Were they the final abodes of the Hindimini people, or did they belong to an older era?
There were graves round about us under half-buried boulders on the little spur on which our camp was tilted, but the master of the tent thought them Muhammadan, and was obviously unhappy at the risk of sacrilege.
The tent master’s unease in the face of these graves hints at the complexity of beliefs in this region, where disturbing graves of the Islamic era was considered sacrilegious while excavating graves from the pre-islamic era was commonplace . Stark’s own musings, though speculative, offer valuable insights into the potential cultural and historical significance of these burial sites.
Exploring the Abandoned Infidel Town
Within the confines of Iran’s mountainous terrain, Freya Stark’s insatiable curiosity led her to yet another captivating discovery—an abandoned city, identified by her local guides simply as the ‘infidel town’ connoting it’s pre-islamic history, that stood as a silent witness to the passage of time. As we join her on this leg of her journey, the ruins of this ancient settlement come to life through her vivid prose.
The city that Stark encountered near the Hindimini camp was a marvel in itself, with its stone remnants and terraces that seemed to cling to the landscape as if preserving the memories of bygone days. A good causeway, still in use, led up to the city from the plain of Dusan, testifying to its historical significance.
Beneath the layers of more recent construction, Stark unearthed traces of a more massive and primitive architectural style. Here, boulders as large as a grown man had been used as the foundation for houses, revealing the old streets that once crisscrossed the valley floor. The contrast between the later, rough, small-stone construction and the massive boulders hinted at the evolution and eventual decay of this city.
Tombstones, adorned with running Persian script, provided additional clues about the city’s history and the people who once called it home. Nearby, the Larti valley featured an inscription carved into a rock, allowing us to trace the timeline of these two neighbouring cities that likely flourished and declined together.
While Stark acknowledged that the Atabeks of Luristan had played a role in the region’s building activity, she suspected that what she observed belonged to a later era. This leaves us with a tantalising puzzle, a glimpse into a forgotten chapter of history that continues to intrigue us.
The Atabeks of Luristan are known to have done much building in this country, and probably these sites were inhabited in their day: but although I am no expert in script, it seemed to me that what I saw belonged to a later date. There is a sadness in coming on these once inhabited places, built by prosperous and settled communities, where now, for many days’ ride on every side, the nomad in his black tent dwells alone.
Freya Stark : The Valley Of The Assassins
Civilization vs. Simplicity
In the shadow of the abandoned city, Freya Stark’s contemplative gaze extends beyond the physical ruins. As she navigates the remnants of ancient civilizations, her musings take us into the heart of a profound dilemma—the juxtaposition of civilization and simplicity in the Middle East.
Stark’s reflections highlight the complex interplay between tradition and modernity that she encountered during her travels. The nomadic way of life, embodied by the inhabitants of the Hindimini camp, starkly contrasts with the comforts and complexities of city existence.
Amidst the tents and rugged terrain, Stark observes the endurance of simplicity. These people return to their roots and live much as their ancestors did, seemingly untouched by the allure of modern conveniences. The physical world may have transformed around them, but their way of life remains a testament to the force of primitive circumstances.
A symbol of this contrast is the small piece of soap offered by one of the camp’s hosts. This seemingly humble gesture is, in fact, a profound reminder of the resilience of civilization. In the midst of nomadic existence, this tiny piece of soap becomes a cherished treasure—a link to a world beyond the hills and valleys of the Middle East.
When I had been accommodated on a carpet, and water was brought me to wash my hands, he knelt beside me, and out of his voluminous sash produced a small piece of soap. He offered it with an air of modest triumph. He evidently felt about it as an Englishman may feel when he dresses for dinner in some outpost of the jungle.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Stark’s observations prompt us to ponder the true essence of civilization. It is a delicate plant, easily overshadowed by the force of primitive circumstances. Civilization, she suggests, is not among the indispensable necessities of mankind, and the endurance of simplicity remains a testament to the enduring human spirit.
A Chance Encounter
As Freya Stark’s expedition unfolds, we find ourselves drawn deeper into the intricate web of cultural exchange that defines her travels. Stark’s chance encounter with the enigmatic Larti man, sheds light on the dynamics of interaction and perception in this remote corner of the Middle East.
Stark’s journey leads her to the Larti ravine, where a “fox-faced ” old man appears, the headman of Larti known as the kadkhuda. Their exchange is marked by a mutual appreciation for the art of traversing the rugged terrain. The old man’s compliment about Stark’s agility in the hills and her light-footedness evoke a sense of camaraderie forged through shared experiences.
The conversation takes an intriguing turn as Sa’id Ja’far, one of Stark’s companions, interjects with a mention of Scotland. He draws parallels between Stark’s English group and the Scottish soldiers he once encountered in Baghdad. His astute observation about their distinct walking style and attire sparks a fascinating dialogue about regional identities and perceptions.
When I was in Baghdad, soldiers came marching through: I saw at once that they were different from the others. I said to myself: These people surely come from the hills. They walk better and they are dressed like us of the Pusht-i-Kuh. Perhaps they are our cousins/ And when I asked, I was told that they were Scotchmen of the mountains.
Freya Stark: The Valley OF The Assassins
As we delve into her encounter with the Larti man’s family, we uncover a tale of hospitality, cultural exchange, and the enduring bonds forged in the most unexpected places.
The kadkhuda, whom Stark had hoped to meet again for a follow-up on their archaeological endeavours, had been called away on business to the lands of the Beni Parwar. In the ever-unpredictable landscape of travel, plans often take a backseat to circumstances beyond one’s control. Instead of forging ahead, Stark and her companions opted to wait, an act of patience that would soon be rewarded.
The family of the Larti man welcomed the travellers with open arms, offering a glimpse into the intricacies of hospitality deeply rooted in Middle Eastern culture. Stark’s description of their simple reed and leaf houses, accompanied by the presence of animals and open stubble fields, paints a picture of life in this remote region.
The old patriarch of the family, though nearly blind and draped in tattered rags, carried himself with dignity. His humble attire, while seemingly dishevelled, seemed to defy gravity as the strips of cloth clung together, embodying the principle of unity amid diversity. His age commanded respect, a reminder that mere survival in these challenging landscapes was an achievement worthy of admiration.
The young master of the tent, ever gracious, held Stark’s stirrup as she dismounted, an act of deference that speaks volumes about the respect accorded to guests in this culture. Despite the camp’s simplicity, the family spared no effort in providing a meal, a gesture that transcends language and exemplifies the universal value of hospitality.
Departure of the Dusani Guide
As Freya Stark’s voyage through the mountains of Western Iran unfolds, we find ourselves at a juncture where the dynamics of her journey undergo a significant shift. The departure of the Dusani guide, who had accompanied her thus far through this phase of her travels in Iranian Luristan, marks a notable turning point in Stark’s expedition. Having relied on his guidance and local knowledge, Stark’s decision to part ways with him is a testament to her growing confidence and resourcefulness. It underscores the evolving role of navigation tools, with her compass now serving as a sufficient substitute for his presence.
Our Dusani guide now left us. He was surprised and a little chagrined to find that I considered my compass as a sufficient substitute for his presence, for he had hoped to hurry us back with him to his own tribe; but he gave in with a good grace, and took a friendly leave, looking upon me less as an English stranger than as a woman endowed with sense in the climbing of rocks, an altogether creditable distinction.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
The Dusani guide’s surprise and mild chagrin at Stark’s preference for modern navigation tools offer a glimpse into the dynamics of their relationship. His initial hope to accompany the group back to his own tribe is met with understanding, and he gracefully accepts the situation. The mutual respect between Stark and the guide is evident, even in their parting. This interaction, like many documented by Stark, illustrates the deep connections and respect she fostered with the individuals she encountered on her travels. Her ability to navigate cultural differences and to build rapport with people from vastly different backgrounds is a testament to her empathy, curiosity, and the genuine interest she had in learning from those she met. Stark’s writings, enriched by these personal encounters, provide readers with more than just an account of her explorations; they offer a narrative filled with humanity, respect, and the subtle complexities of cross-cultural relationships, further highlighting her legacy as an explorer who deeply valued the human aspect of her journeys.
FAQs
Q: What is the significance of the loom in the Hindimini camp?
A: The loom symbolizes the Hindimini people’s commitment to their ancient tradition of carpet weaving.
Q: What do the graves and tombstones in the region indicate?
A: They hint at the rich history and changing civilizations that once thrived in the area.
Q: How do the structures in the ruins provide insights into the past?
A: Despite their simplicity, the structures offer glimpses into the history and lives of their former inhabitants.
Q: Who were the Atabeks of Luristan, and what legacy did they leave?
A: The Atabeks were known builders in the region, and their legacy is evident in the local architecture.
Q: What do the excavated tombs reveal about the region’s history?
A: The tombs provide valuable insights into the region’s history, culture, and religious beliefs.
Q: How does the chance encounter with the Larti man exemplify cultural exchange?
A: The encounter shows how people from different backgrounds can connect through shared experiences in the Middle East.
Q: How does the departure of the Dusani guide affect the journey?
A: It marks a shift in reliance from local guidance to modern navigation tools, highlighting adaptability in travel.
Q: What does the piece of soap symbolize in the essay?
A: The soap symbolizes a connection to civilization, preserved amidst the challenges of nomadic life.
Q: What central theme emerges in the section about the Larti man’s family?
A: The enduring value of human connections and hospitality in remote regions becomes evident.
Q: How does the essay reflect the coexistence of simplicity and allure in the Middle East?
A: It shows that amid the allure of nomadic life and the comforts of civilization, simplicity endures as a way of life.