Bertram Thomas in Oman’s Qara Mountains

Bertram Thomas, a renowned explorer and writer, is best known for his travel writings, particularly his famous book “Arabia Felix.” In this captivating literary work, Thomas recounts his expedition to the Qara mountains in Oman, where he encountered various challenges and discovered fascinating insights about the region. One of the most intriguing aspects of his journey was the initial stay in Dhufar and the unexpected delay in the arrival of his camel party, which set the stage for a series of unique experiences and adventures.

Key Takeaways

  • Bertram Thomas made a bold move to divert attention from his delayed expedition by proposing an unexpected trip to the Qara Mountains.
  • The expedition was inspired by the exploration of Theodore and Mabel Bent, but Thomas aimed to make his own unique discoveries rooted in anthropology.
  • Thomas’s primary objective was to delve into the local customs and traditions of the people in the Qara Mountains, enriching anthropological knowledge.
  • The expedition also offered hunting opportunities, adding an adventurous element to the journey.

Circumstantial Expedition Planning

During an unexpected interlude in Dhufar due to the absence of his camel party, Bertram Thomas made a bold and calculated move instead of succumbing to idleness. He devised a distraction by proposing an expedition to the Qara Mountains. This was intended as a means of diverting attention from himself and quelling any speculation regarding his motives or further actions among the locals. The announcement of the trip served its purpose, drawing the gaze and speculation of those who would become curious about his delayed expedition.

Interestingly, Thomas was not the first explorer to show interest in these mountains. Approximately forty years prior, a courageous and adventurous couple, Theodore and Mabel Bent, had mounted an expedition to the very same region. Their exploration of Qara, documented in travelogues of the time, had drawn international attention to this relatively unknown part of Arabia. Their travel records had sparked Thomas’s interest and set a precedent for his own adventure.

Here was fresh country, which only Theodore and Mabel Bent had seen forty years before. The land ever surges with tribal unrest, so that only once has the Sultan or his representative, the Governor of Dhufar, seen fit to tour in these mountains, and never at all their predecessors. It was, moreover, the gateway to the great desert.

Bertram Thomas: Arabia Felix

Preparation for the Qara Mountain Expedition

Reflecting his intellectual curiosity and fascination with foreign cultures, Bertram Thomas’ primary objective in venturing to the Qara Mountains was to delve deeper into the local customs, superstitions, traditions, and the way of life. He aimed at enriching anthropological knowledge by gathering firsthand evidence about this isolated and little-known mountain culture.

The intrigue surrounding these mountain people was exacerbated by their affiliation with distinct regions of Arabia. Although geographically isolated, they exhibited a tapestry of cultural influences, weaving a social fabric that transcended regional boundaries. The prospect of uncovering this regional nexus ignites readers’ anticipation, presenting an additional dimension to the mountain expedition.

I was eager for the opportunity of living amongst these people, whose heads I had measured; I was curious to discover their customs, their superstitions, their traditions, and for light upon their psychology and way of life. Here would be clues for the anthropologist.

Bertram Thomas: Arabia Felix

Besides this captivating cultural exploration, the Qara mountains promised ample hunting opportunities, a prospect Thomas found enticing. The expedition was not only about exploring the anthropological nuances; it was also an escapist adventure, a chance to immerse in the harsh yet breathtaking landscape, and pit his hunting prowess against the fauna of this rugged Arabian region.

Arabia, lying on the borders of three of the great zoological provinces into which the world is divided, presents problems of particular interest, and as the museums of the world had almost no specimens of the fauna of this particular central south region, the joys of hunting would be enhanced.

Bertram Thomas: Arabia Felix

To prepare for the expedition, Thomas made sure he was well-equipped to navigate the mountainous terrain and adequately document his findings. His kit encompassed a Winchester rifle and ammunition, a butterfly net, collection boxes for storing collected artifacts, and a set of surgical instruments for field medical emergencies. His meticulous preparation reaffirmed his commitment to this expedition and underscored his anticipation of a broad range of experiences and discoveries.

Changes in the Expedition Plan

As Bertram Thomas geared up for his Qara Mountain expedition, unforeseen circumstances led to a change in his initial plan. His trusted secretary, ‘Ali Muhammad, a crucial part of his team, fell ill. Given the rugged nature of the expedition and ‘Ali Muhammad’s weak health conditions, Thomas made the difficult decision of excluding him from the journey. This unforeseen incident was not only a personal blow but also created logistical challenges, stretching his already sparse resources and manpower further.

Despite the setback, the spirit of the explorer remained indomitable. Thomas decided to leave his gun behind to reduce the weight of his already heavy luggage. This decision came at a risk, considering the ample hunting opportunities and the wild, unpredictable nature of the mountains. However, Thomas viewed this sacrifice as a necessary strategy to ensure the more effective functioning and success of his expedition.

The changes in the expedition plan, while unanticipated, brought out the characteristics that defined Bertram Thomas – his adaptability, resilience, and pragmatism. These virtues, moulded and solidified by his earlier travels, helped him steer his way through these challenges, avoiding any significant disruption to his carefully laid plans. As such, even in the face of adversity, the expedition to Qara Mountains remained essentially unhampered, and Thomas, resilient and undeterred, continued on his path – now modified, but with the same burning curiosity and resolve.

Journey to Oman’s Qara Mountains

With the adjusted expedition plans finalized, Bertram Thomas set off on his journey to the Qara Mountains. Undeterred by the challenges during the initial stages, he and his resilient team commenced the expedition on the 19th of October, 1930. Determined to meet the difficulties head-on, they were driven by the allure of the uncharted landscape and the thrill of anthropological discovery.

Intrigue and anticipation filled the air as on the first day, they rode their camels into the arid landscape, leaving behind the familiarity of Dhufar. The horizon’s dusty haze slowly cleared to reveal the imposing silhouette of the Qara Mountains. The day was marked by steady progress, the slow rhythmic bobbing of the camels synching with the beating hearts of the team, who were eagerly awaiting the discoveries ahead.

As the days rolled on, the team soon established a rapport with their Qara hosts. These encounters were a window into the authentic way of life in the mountains, fostering a deeper understanding of the nuanced, complex social dynamics of the region. Thomas’s desire to understand and document these cultural tapestries added an academic flavor to the expedition, demonstrating his anthropological prowess alongside his explorer bravado.

Many other pagan and animistic cults survive and are practised throughout these mountains. All the natives hold them strongly; whereas elsewhere in Muslim Arabia they would be dubbed ungodly at the least. Another local custom is the blood sacrifice carried out in the Jurbaib just before the harvest, when a cow is led round the crops and slaughtered, the blood drained into the irrigation ducts and scraps of flesh cast amongst the standing corn.

Bertram Thomas: Arabia Felix

The crossing of geographical barriers mirrored the metaphorical crossing of cultural barriers- giving the author a unique perspective on the inherent, yet often overlooked complexities of this Arabian region. As the sands shifted beneath them, marking their progress towards the Qara Mountains, it was clear that they were on the brink of unravelling the mysteries of the mountain people’s way of life.

Discoveries and Experiences in the Qara Mountains

As Bertram Thomas led his team further into the heart of the Qara Mountains, the magnitude of their discoveries began to unfold. Traversing across jagged, sun-beaten terrain, they gained insight into the region’s unique anthropological landscape by exploring the scattering of ancient stones and graves. These remnants of a bygone era instigated belief in the previous inhabitants’ giant size, presenting a novel dimension to man’s anthropological history in this region.

In one of the expeditions, they chanced upon a typical mountain man, a significant encounter that provided valuable knowledge about local traditions, superstitions, and customs. This interaction, facilitated by Thomas’s amicable approach and keen curiosity, was insightful, painting an incredibly vivid picture of a society living on the fringes of the vast Arabian desert.

Down the valley came a mountain man, afoot. We hailed him, he paused and after acknowledging our summons by raising his rifle above his head, came over to where we stood. He was a typical man of these mountains, short of stature, dark of skin, with long gollywog curly hair, almost beard- less, with features that distinguished him immediately from r the northern Arab, broad brow, very small ears, nose that was not armenoid, small, round black eyes again not armenoid, a pointed receding chin, shallow square jaws under the ears; well-developed and clean legs, but poor body and arms.

Bertram Thomas: Arabia Felix

The starkly rugged terrain of the Qara Mountains provided the backdrop for another aspect of the expedition: the discovery and collection of various species of the mountain’s fauna. The mountains were home to an array of animals, both large and small, their unique adaptations making them a part of this harsh environment. With his butterfly net and collection boxes, Thomas documented this biodiversity, adding another layer to his wide-ranging exploration.

Yet, not all aspirations were met during the expedition. The Qara Mountains flourished with hyenas, beasts whose distinct cries echoed and reverberated against the bare rocks. On several occasions, Thomas made attempts to hunt these beasts, driven by the same adventurous spirit that had led him to this part of the world. Despite these attempts being unsuccessful, they created adrenaline-fueled memories that he later recounted in his enthralling narrative.

The intriguing mysteries and experiences of the Qara Mountains formed an essential part of Bertram Thomas’s journey into Oman. From anthropological discoveries to unravelling local customs and traditions, to an understanding of the mountain’s fauna, each aspect lent itself to an enriching expedition. While the unsuccessful hunting attempts added a touch of adventure, the overall experiences and discoveries created a mosaic of memories and insights, ultimately enriching Thomas’s understanding of the region’s history and the diverse people who called it home.

Conclusion

The expedition to the Qara Mountains not only presented Thomas with anthropological insights but also offered a glimpse into the region’s fauna and natural habitat. The encounters with ancient stones, graves, and local inhabitants added layers of complexity to his understanding of Arabian history and society. Each discovery, each interaction, contributed to a broader perspective of the region, enriching his narrative and deepening his scholarly pursuits.

Despite the challenges, setbacks, and unsuccessful hunting attempts, Thomas’s resolve remained unshaken as he continued to push the boundaries of exploration and knowledge. The rugged landscape of the Qara Mountains bore witness to his indomitable spirit, his thirst for discovery, and his unwavering commitment to sharing the richness of Arabian culture with the world.

FAQs

Q: What was Bertram Thomas’ primary objective in venturing to the Qara Mountains?
A: Bertram Thomas aimed to delve deeper into the local customs, superstitions, traditions, and way of life in order to gather firsthand evidence and enrich anthropological knowledge.

Q: Who were Theodore and Mabel Bent, and how did they influence Bertram Thomas’ expedition plans?
A: Theodore and Mabel Bent were a couple who mounted an expedition to the Qara Mountains approximately forty years before Bertram Thomas. Their exploration documented in travelogues sparked Thomas’ interest and set a precedent for his own adventure.

Q: What equipment did Bertram Thomas bring to prepare for his expedition to the Qara Mountains?
A: Bertram Thomas brought a Winchester rifle and ammunition, a butterfly net, collection boxes for artifacts, and surgical instruments for field medical emergencies to navigate the mountainous terrain and document his findings.

Q: Why did Bertram Thomas decide to leave his gun behind for the Qara Mountain expedition?
A: Bertram Thomas decided to leave his gun behind to reduce the weight of his luggage and ensure the more effective functioning and success of his expedition, despite the ample hunting opportunities and unpredictable nature of the mountains.

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