Freya Stark’s “Valley Of The Assassins” is a captivating travel memoir that takes readers on a journey through the valleys and villages of Iran. Stark’s detailed account provides a rich tapestry of cultural insights and experiences, offering a unique perspective on life in these remote regions.
Known for her insightful observations and vivid storytelling, Freya Stark’s books have long been celebrated for their exploration of lesser-known landscapes and the people who inhabit them. “Valley Of The Assassins” is no exception, offering a glimpse into the complexities of life in Iran’s valleys and the challenges faced by its inhabitants.
Life and Perspectives in the Valleys
In the remarkable mosaic of the Iranian landscape, Stark took an indirect route, descending through the meadows at sunset, where she and her companion Mahmud conversed about topics as local as the hunting of eagles. The hilly terrains echoed not only with their conversations but also with the sound of melancholic Persian ballads that their guide, Ismail, sang to himself ahead of them. These songs told the tale of Miriam of Tanakabun, a story known to every charvardar, hinting at the role of oral narratives in their society.
Stark observed keenly, tracing the patterns of her Mediterranean home in this distant land. The narrative folksongs Ismail sang elicited comparisons in her mind to the traditional ballads sung by Italian peasants in Piedmont. Through such familiar echoes in unfamiliar territories, Freya Stark painted a vivid and compelling picture of life in the valleys and offered a keen understanding of the oral narrative tradition, which persisted with remarkable tenacity in their culture.
Ismail, ahead of us with the mules, sang the melancholy ballads of the charvardars. They seemed to be hendecasyllables, three rhymes like the quatrains of FitzGerald, a long sad story of Miriam of Tanakabun. Here as among the Arabs song still springs naturally out of men’s daily life; the incidents of the market, the gossip of the valley, are w o v e n into ballads as they come: ever retouched and readapted to their m o d e m background, they keep their original substance perhaps through centuries, like the ballad of Rosmunda the Gothic princess, which, in modern garb, is still sung by Italian peasants in the hills of Piedmont.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Throughout her account, Stark drew comparisons and connections, bridging the geographic divide and offering insightful commentary on the cultural amalgamation she encountered during her journey through these valleys. This global perspective did not dilute the uniqueness of this newfound culture but heightened it, drawing the reader’s attention to the rich harmony and convergence of traditions that underpin the lived experience in the valleys of Iran.
Insights into the Local Habitats
Continuing her journey, Freya Stark took her readers to the bustling heart of rural life in Mahmudabad. She described her visit to the home of the local policeman, teetering on the boundary between a foreign guest and an anthropologist. The policeman’s wife was notably absent from the scene, unable or unwilling to adapt to the rural lifestyle, leaving their two little daughters under the care of their father.
During her visit, a minor mishap ensued as one of the girls scraped her knee. Ever the empathetic traveler, Stark took it upon herself to attend to the injury. She escorted the two girls back to her home, caring for them and providing a brief yet poignant insight into the everyday incidents of life in this part of the world.
As the veil of darkness fell, an elderly man accompanied Stark on her journey back from the policeman’s abode. Walking through the muffled silence lit by the moonlight, their conversation meandered to the subject of cuckoos. Despite disagreeing on certain aspects, they both found common ground in the reverence they felt for religious and ancient texts, demonstrating how faith and folklore played an instrumental role in the belief systems of these communities.
The unshaven man joined us on the w a y and we discussed cuckoos, whose voices I had heard in Alamut for the first time that day. ” It is a useless wicked bird,” I said, and told him h o w it grows in a strange nest. ” Is that so?” said he. ” If your eye is diseased, and you smear ointment made f r o m the cuckoos’ eyes upon it, it will heal. Allah makes all things useful. This is written in a book called The Peculiarities of Beasts. It is true. Y o u can buy it in the bazaar.” We were polite about it; but we neither of us believed the other.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Throughout her time in Mahmudabad, Stark’s descriptions provided a unique perspective on the intimate moments of everyday life, casting a new light on the rural landscapes she so extensively explores. Her portrayal of the local habitats, the communities that hold them, and the anecdotes that created them offered profound insights into the lives of the people of Iran’s valleys, painting a vivid picture that extends beyond the physical characteristics of the landscape.
Venturing into the Historical Aspects
In the narrative of her journey, Freya Stark demonstrated not only an interest in the immediate cultures and societies of the valleys but also a keen interest in the layers of history that shaped these landscapes. As she ventured deeper into the valley, Stark found herself engaged in a discussion with an intelligent elder. Her conversation with this elder provided her a wealth of information about the castle seated atop Shirkuh, its ancient water reservoirs, and the historical significance these monuments held for the villagers.
The day after this enlightening conversation, Stark and her companions set off from Shutur Khan. Their plan was to follow the valley until it brought them to ‘Aziz’s village of Garmrud. Their journey was marked not only by physical movement but also by a deep exploration of local history and geography. Settling down for the evening, Stark engaged with the villagers in discussions about the geography of their land, providing readers with glimpses into the regional understanding and social significance of the physical landscape.
The following morning added a fresh information to their journey. Accompanied by the villagers, Stark visited the castle of Nevisar Shah, a significant historical landmark in the valley. She ascended the old castle, its worn out steps whispering tales of the past. Upon reaching the top, Stark made an intriguing discovery – shards of pottery dating back to the thirteenth century. These tangible fragments of history allowed Stark to connect with the valley’s past, assisting her in comprehending the depth of its historical narrative. The richness of her written account comes not just from her observations of the present, but also from her profound understanding and appreciation of the history of the Iranian valleys, gifting readers a comprehensive encounter with this distant and enchanting land.
As I climbed, I saw a gleam of blue glaze among the stones, and picked up a shard of the selfsame pottery we had found at the R o c k of Alamut two days before. Thirteenth-century pottery in this deserted place, 3,000 feet above the nearest habitation! I seized on it as a proof required; for here without doubt must be Marco Polo’s casde, at the entrance of the valley as he describes it. We hunted among the stones, and found more and more broken bits all corresponding to the early samples of Qasir Khan, and blessed the destructiveness of Assassin housemaids long ago.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Cultural Dynamics and The Local Dilemma
In Shutur Khan, Stark observed the complex social workings of the Iranian valleys. Her dialogue with ‘Aziz and her encounters with the Arbab (local ruler) provided her with insights into local customs. The Arbab, in particular, drew her attention as he served dual roles of governance and judgement, essentially translating law into everyday practice. One such practice was the tradition of gift-giving, a prevalent cultural norm that Stark found fascinating. In her conversation with ‘Aziz, she came to understand the delicate nuances associated with this custom. ‘Aziz explained how gifts were scrutinized keenly, not just for their substance but equally for the intention and sentiment behind them, proving how deeply symbolic and socially binding this practice was in their society.
W h e n we had left Shutur Khan a f e w hundred yards behind us he came up to me and asked whether I had given a present to the Arbab’s servant. ” Yes, indeed,” said I. ” I gave him half a toman.” ” That was more than sufficient,” said ‘Aziz. ” But how was it that we did not see it given?” ” It is our custom,” said I, ” to give these gifts as quietly as possible, lest the master of the house should feel ashamed.” ” Indeed,” said ‘Aziz, ” that is a good custom, but not for our country, for Ibrahim will not tell his master of your noble generosity, and your face will be blackened. I will make it all right.”
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
As their journey continued, Stark’s group was accosted by a local woman beseeching them for aid for her ill mother. Being outsiders, they were initially unsure how to respond to this direct appeal. However, guided by their innate humanity and empathy, they decided upon offering aid. This incident reiterated the communal spirit, stark reliance on neighbours, and palpable human connections that existed in these remotely nestled villages in the valleys of Iran.
The bountiful beauty of the Iranian valleys also presented a paradoxical situation. Despite the fertile landscapes lush with roses, vines, hawthorn, and expansive rice fields, the local communities suffered from a pressing health issue. Stark noted the pervasive presence of Malaria, spread by mosquitoes, prevalent especially in these otherwise abundantly fertile and lush terrains. She reflected on the bitter irony of this situation – the same favorable environment that sustenanced their livelihoods also harboured a life-threatening disease.
This section of Stark’s journey is a deep dive into the cultural practices, social dilemmas, and community interactions that regulate life in these valleys. The rich social dynamics and the ironies of existence that she observed informs readers about the multifaceted life realities of the Iranian valleys. Her in-depth account paints a complete portrait of life in these remote regions, illustrating how despite the abundance of nature and the strength of their cultural identities, life in these communities is marked by hardship intertwined with everyday existence.
Changes and Adaptions within the Valleys
Moving further into her journey, Freya Stark found herself in Zavarak, a charming village image of the valleys of Iran. Here, she noted a symbiosis of the past and the future, deeply rooted traditions blending with nascent modernism. This was evidence by a booth in the local market filled to the brim with European items, which sparked her curiosity. These goods were starkly contrasted against the local handmade ones, signaling a shift towards increasing adaptation of foreign influences. However, these goods did not seem to overshadow the traditional merchandise, showing the resilience and the adaptability of local culture in the face of global influences.
On reaching Garmrud at sunset, Stark and her group were greeted by the striking sight of the village. The immense cliff that shadowed Garmrud was a dominant feature of the landscape, with the village houses leaning against its sturdy base, seemingly as an adaptation to the hilly terrain. This symbiotic relationship between the settlement and the land reflected both the resilience of the inhabitants and the incorporative nature of their architecture, relentlessly moulding and adjusting itself to the geographical peculiarities.
In the evening, when Stark took a walk around the village, she was approached by a stranger whose haughty demeanor exuded a sense of entitlement and a dismissive regard for the author’s experiences. This encounter left Freya slightly disturbed, providing valuable insight into the changing attitudes of locals towards foreign visitors. It showcased the evolving intercultural dynamics within the valleys, the side effects of exposure to broader influences leading to condescension and resistance.
we sat at lunch, and the folk of the house near-by joined us, together with a wayfarer or t w o as the custom is, for your food is free to all w h o come; and this in itself is an argument for not carrying more than is absolutely necessary, for if y o u share them with all the country-side your tins of biscuits last a very few days. As we were sitting there in a circle, a stranger came up, a Bakhtiari with a peaked m o d e m cap, the only one I saw w o r n in the valley except by ‘Aziz and the Arbab. This was against the man to begin with, but he made matters worse by beginning to talk of Europe and its politics and asked me whether the British still consider Berlin as their capital, as they have done, said he, since the war. ” W e have given that up some time ago,” said I, but wished he w o u l d go and cease from troubling our less intellectual peace.
Freya Stark: The Valley Of The Assassins
Through Stark’s observant eyes, readers gain insights into the changes and adaptations in the Iranian valleys. This narrative of transformation, of blending traditions, and the expanding horizons of local communities offered essential insights into the evolving cultural landscapes. The pace of change, the preservation of history, the introduction of foreign elements, and the socio-cultural adaptions painted an intricate picture of a dynamic society in the heart of Iran’s valleys.
Conclusion
As Freya Stark bid farewell to the valley of Alamut, her journey continued towards the forests of Mazanderan, leading her down towards the Caspian shore. The winding path she trod unveiled new landscapes and fresh encounters, each contributing to the rich tapestry of her narrative.
Departing from Alamut, Stark was met with an unexpected revelation upon her return. Her luggage had been rummaged through in her absence, revealing nothing more than a Persian grammar book. This seemingly mundane discovery mirrored her journey – filled with unexpected twists and revelations that defied conventional expectations.
Reflecting on Freya Stark’s immersive experiences in the valleys of Iran, we glimpse the fascinating yet challenging realities of life in these remote regions. Stark’s encounters shed light on the intricate cultural dynamics, the historical depths, the social dilemmas, and the ever-evolving landscape of the valleys. Through her keen observations and vivid storytelling, Stark not only documents her journey but also paints a nuanced portrait of a world both familiar and foreign, a world teeming with life, struggle, and resilience.