Aden To Hadramaut: Book Review By Freya Stark

Freya Stark, primarily celebrated for her own iconic travel writing, was not only an intrepid explorer but also an astute critic. Beyond her adventurous journeys, Stark showcased her prowess as a literary connoisseur by contributing to academic journals, critiquing the travel writings of her contemporaries. In this light, the evaluation of Colonel D. van der Meulen’s book, “Aden to the Hadhramaut,” stands as a testament to her discerning eye for travel literature. Stark’s insightful opinions on the original work offer us a valuable perspective on this journey to South Arabia, unravelled by her fellow traveller.

A Resonant Echo of Past Encounters

In her review of Colonel D. van der Meulen’s “Aden to the Hadhramaut,” Freya Stark delves into her own encounters in South Arabia. Her travels occurred in a distinct era, 1934, when South Arabia was a land sealed from most of the world. She sets the stage by reminding readers of another of Van der Meulen’s compelling narratives, “Hadhramaut: Some of its Mysteries Unveiled,” penned during his exploration with Professor von Wissmann. These journeys across the turbulent territory laid the foundation for Stark’s critical acumen in assessing her contemporary’s adventures.

Recounting her experiences, Stark vividly describes her interactions with the people of South Arabia. She reflects upon the region’s transformation over the years, particularly the effects of “Ingram’s Peace” – a period of tranquillity following the appointment of British Resident Adviser, Mr. Harold Ingrams, in 1935. This interlude of prosperity was a marked contrast to the misery brought about by famine, locusts, and distant conflicts that marred the years that followed her own expeditions. In Stark’s vivid recollections, we discern the ripple effect of this “Ingram’s Peace” and the deep sense of admiration she held for the man who initiated it.

With Colonel van der Meulen’s recent journey to the southern lands of South Arabia, this review becomes a resonant echo of the past. It offers a unique blend of Stark’s firsthand experiences from 1932 and her astute insights as she revisits her own expeditions through the lens of another traveller’s account. The fluid interplay between her own travelogues and her critical assessment of van der Meulen’s work underscores her multifaceted role as both an explorer and a literary critic.

A Journey Through the Eyes of a Sympathetic Traveller

Freya Stark, a distinguished explorer and travel writer known for her affinity for the Middle East, captures her readers with her compelling account of Colonel D. van der Meulen’s “Aden to the Hadhramaut.” However, what stands out in Stark’s review is her unique perspective. She is not only an accomplished writer of her travel narratives but also a perceptive reader and reviewer of others’ works.

It’s in her description of Colonel van der Meulen as a traveller that Stark recognizes a kindred spirit. Van der Meulen’s exploration of South Arabia is not driven by a wanderlust for novelty but is a by-product of his professional life as an eminent civil servant in the Dutch East Indies. His mission is to visit the homes of those who migrate to the Dutch colonies, providing an intriguing slant to his travels. Stark appreciates his vibrant curiosity, human empathy, and unquenchable zest, as they mirror her own qualities as a traveller.

While Colonel van der Meulen’s primary objective may be related to his public service, his exploration and documentation of South Arabia reveal a distinct perspective, much like an adaptation of Shakespearean drama to modern theatre. Stark finds value in his meticulous observations, the accounts of daily life that might escape the notice of more seasoned travellers, and the narratives of encounters, be they friendly or challenging. It’s as if Stark is in conversation with a fellow writer, as she relays her appreciation for van der Meulen’s likeability and personal qualities that make his travelogue an exceptional read.

In “Aden to the Hadhramaut,” readers encounter a journey through South Arabia, not just as observed by an experienced explorer but as shared by a man of keen insight. Stark masterfully intertwines her recollections of South Arabia with van der Meulen’s account, offering a nuanced perspective and adding depth to the adventure. This unique blend of travelogue and review reaffirms Freya Stark’s multidimensional role as both an intrepid voyager and a discerning literary critic.

Appreciating the Social and Political Climate

Within her review of “Aden to the Hadhramaut,” Freya Stark delves into the socio-political backdrop of South Arabia, providing a thoughtful commentary on the region’s transformation. The year of van der Meulen’s visit, 1939, marked a peak in Hadhramaut’s prosperity, thanks to the prevailing peace following the appointment of Harold Ingrams as the British Resident Adviser in 1935.

Stark underscores the significant impact of Ingrams’ peace on the region, emphasising the contrast between pre- and post-peace conditions in the Wadi ‘Amd, one of Hadhramaut’s main valleys. She uses this stark contrast to depict the profound influence of security on the landscape and its people. In the eight years following the advent of peace, Stark observes a positive transformation in the region. Peasants now cultivate the land without the constant burden of carrying useless rifles, and women and children move about carefreely in areas that were previously desolate and dangerous.

The account of “Ingram’s Peace” serves as a reminder of the vital role that stability and security play in shaping a region. Stark implicitly acknowledges the socio-economic and cultural repercussions of the turmoil and insecurity that plagued South Arabia in preceding years. Through her commentary on the impact of security on the region, she accentuates the significance of political decisions and diplomatic endeavours in the Arab world, which is still relevant in the contemporary context.

In this section of her review, Stark brilliantly blends historical insight with her signature travel narrative style, providing readers with an engaging and informative perspective on the ever-evolving Arabian landscape. Her ability to intertwine the personal experiences of travellers like van der Meulen with the larger socio-political context is a testament to her multifaceted talent as an explorer and writer.

 An Affable Traveller: Colonel van der Meulen

Colonel van der Meulen, the author of “Aden to the Hadhramaut: A Journey in South Arabia,” emerges as a compelling figure in Freya Stark’s review. Through Stark’s words, we gain insight into the character of this Dutch explorer who ventured into the heart of South Arabia. Stark’s portrayal of Colonel van der Meulen brings out the qualities that made him an admirable and effective traveller.

First and foremost, Colonel van der Meulen is depicted as an excellent traveller, characterised by an innate sense of curiosity. His keen interest in the people and places he encounters during his journey is evident. Stark aptly highlights his lively curiosity as one of his defining traits, a quality that undoubtedly contributed to his successful exploration.

Moreover, van der Meulen is presented as a man with a profound sense of human sympathy. He connects with the individuals he meets on his travels, making an effort to understand their lives and experiences. His journeys are not merely about collecting data or conducting expeditions; they are about forging connections and building bridges between different worlds.

Stark goes on to describe Colonel van der Meulen’s remarkable zest for travel. Despite the countless challenges, including the sometimes harrowing experiences that accompany travel in Arab regions, van der Meulen’s enthusiasm remains undiminished. Stark’s description underscores the enduring passion that fuels his exploration, a passion that resonates with readers.

Furthermore, Stark highlights that Colonel van der Meulen is anything but blase. This attribute sets him apart as a unique traveller. His exploration is not his primary vocation; he is, in fact, an esteemed civil servant in the Dutch East Indies. His main purpose for venturing into South Arabia is to visit the people who migrate to the Dutch East Indies. This angle of his journey adds depth and perspective to his travels.

A significant element of Colonel van der Meulen’s approach is his constant comparison of Dutch and British colonial methods. While this could occasionally lead him astray in his interpretations, it brings a fresh perspective to familiar objects and practices. Stark’s review rightly characterises this aspect as akin to a modern adaptation of a Shakespearean performance – offering a different lens through which to view well-established conventions.

Finally, Colonel van der Meulen’s ability to notice and convey the small, everyday incidents and observations is another noteworthy trait. This talent gives life to the scenes he encounters, enabling readers to share in the adventure. Stark’s description of van der Meulen as a man who captures these subtle moments reveals his skill as a storyteller.

Stark’s description offers a vivid portrait of the effects of “Ingram’s Peace” on the lives of the Hadhramaut’s inhabitants. It serves as a testament to the power of peace and security in revitalising and rejuvenating a region that had long been plagued by instability.

The portrayal of the Hadhramaut at the peak of its prosperity during Colonel van der Meulen’s visit is a testament to the role of effective governance and stability in fostering growth and well-being. Freya Stark’s review offers readers a window into a time when a place once marked by turbulence had been transformed into a thriving and harmonious society, a transformation for which “Ingram’s Peace” played a pivotal role. Through her keen observations and engaging narrative style, Stark’s literary works provide an invaluable perspective on the historical and cultural dynamics of the Middle East, further cementing her status as a distinguished figure in the realm of travel writing and exploration.

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