In the early 20th century, Gertrude Bell, a renowned British traveller and writer, embarked on a journey through the landscapes of Jordan, an expedition rich in historical and cultural encounters. Starting from Jerusalem, she and her small group of travel companions, made her way inland to the towns and rural areas ofJordan.
- Gertrude Bell’s journey reveals the historical depth and cultural diversity of early 20th-century Jordan.
- Bell’s discussions on the railway illustrate the ambivalence towards modernization in Jordan.
- Local superstitions and beliefs, especially about Jinneh, are deeply ingrained in the Arab culture.
- The hospitality of tribes like the Beni Sakhr highlights the importance of social customs.
- Tribal politics and blood feuds profoundly impact social interactions and safety.
- Namrud’s stories offer a glimpse into Arab customs, including conflict resolution and women’s roles.
Gertrude Bell’s journey through Jordan is intricately woven with layers of history, revealing the multifaceted past of this region. One poignant historical reference is her account of Ziza (AL-Jizah), once occupied by an Egyptian garrison in the era of Ibrahim Pasha. This occupation played a critical role in the region’s history, particularly in the architectural legacy left behind. Under Egyptian control, Ziza witnessed the unfortunate destruction of many ancient buildings, a loss that resonated deeply with the historical narrative of the area.
Bell draws attention to the fact that before the arrival of the Egyptians, numerous edifices, including several Christian churches, stood in near-perfect preservation. This detail provided by local Arabs offers a glimpse into a past where religious and cultural pluralism thrived. The presence of these well-preserved Christian churches amidst the Islamic architecture of the region speaks volumes about the historical intermingling of faiths and communities.
Reflections on Modernization
Gertrude Bell delved into the contemporary issues facing Jordan at the time, particularly focusing on the impact of modernization. A significant symbol of this change was the railway line, which brought both potential benefits and challenges to the local communities. Bell recounts her discussions with Namrud, a local figure, who viewed the railway with a degree of scepticism. Namrud’s reservations were not unfounded, as he expressed concerns about the integrity of officials and soldiers associated with this modern enterprise.
Namrud’s personal experience with the railway highlighted the practicalities and shortcomings of modernization. He had attempted to utilise the railway for transporting corn to Damascus, only to face issues such as theft and loss of goods. This account underlines the teething problems faced by local populations in adapting to new technologies and systems, which were often marred by inefficiency and corruption.
Superstitions and Local Beliefs
Gertrude Bell’s account of her travels in Jordan also sheds light on the deeply ingrained superstitions and local beliefs among the Arab communities. One of the most captivating aspects of her narrative involves the local fears and myths surrounding certain places considered to be haunted. Bell relays conversations with Namrud, who speaks of wells, ruins, and hollows avoided by the Arabs, especially after dark, due to the fear of Jinneh or genies. These stories reflect the rich tapestry of folklore and traditional beliefs that permeate the desert landscape, adding a mystical dimension to her journey.
Namrud himself adds a personal touch to these superstitions by recounting an incident where he startled an Arab by emerging naked from a pool at dawn.
He himself had startled an Arab almost out of his wits by jumping naked at him from a lonely pool in the half light of the dawn. The man ran back to his tents, and swore that he had seen a jinn, and that the flocks should not go down to water where it abode, till Namrud came in and laughed at him and told his own tale.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Social Interactions and Hospitality
Gertrude Bell’s narrative richly details the social interactions and the hospitality she experienced during her travels in Jordan. A significant event in her journey was her dinner with Sheikh Nahar of the Beni Sakhr tribe. This invitation and her acceptance of it highlight the cultural norms and practices of hospitality in the region. Bell notes the importance of visiting only notable sheikhs to avoid being exploited for gifts, reflecting the delicate balance of respect and caution in social engagements.
The dinner itself is portrayed as an occasion of cultural significance. Bell describes the hospitality extended by the Meskin, a term laden with various connotations ranging from mild contempt to honest poverty.
Nahar—well, he is an honest man, though he be Meskin,”—a word that covers all forms of mild contempt, from that which is extended to honest poverty, through imbecility to the first stages of feeble vice.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
The setting of the dinner, within the confines of a traditional Arab tent, offered Bell a glimpse into the nomadic lifestyle. The tent’s design, with its open lee side and the ease with which it can change its outlook, symbolises the adaptability and resilience of the desert dwellers.
The lee side of an Arab tent is always open to the air; if the wind shifts the women take down the tent wall and set it up against another quarter, and in a moment your house has changed its outlook and laces gaily to the most favourable prospect. It is so small and so light and yet so strongly anchored that the storms can do little to it ; the coarse meshes of the goat’s hair cloth swell and close together in the wet so that it needs continuous rain carried on a high wind before a cold stream leaks into the dwelling-place.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Tribal Blood Feuds
Amidst her journey, Gertrude Bell recounts a series of unexpected encounters that add a layer of complexity to her understanding of the local dynamics in Jordan. A notable incident occurs during her visit to Sheikh Nahar’s tent when three men from the Sherarat tribe unexpectedly arrive. Their entrance, described with attention to physical detail and demeanour, signifies the intricate social hierarchies and tribal relations prevalent in the region.
The situation grows more tense with the arrival of Gablan, a member of the ruling house of the Da’ja tribe. Bell captures the subtle yet significant reactions of those present, indicating an underlying blood feud between the Da’ja and the Sherarat. This moment is a poignant example of the delicate and often volatile tribal relationships that Bell navigates throughout her travels.
At the first glance Gablan had recognised the lineage of his fellow guests, and had therefore retired silently into the depths of the tent. He would not dip his hand in the same mutton dish with them. Nahar knew, as who did not ? the difficulty of the situation, but he could not tell how the men of the Sherarat would take it, and, for fear of accidents, he had hurried us away.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
The swift decision to leave the gathering, prompted by the potential for conflict, further underscores the unpredictability of social interactions in this context. Bell’s account of this episode provides a candid glimpse into the complexities of tribal politics and the importance of maintaining peace and avoiding conflict.
Rainy Days and Conversations
In her travels through Jordan, Gertrude Bell also captures the essence of everyday life, as exemplified by her experiences during several days of continuous rain. These days provide a backdrop for deeper interactions and reflections. Bell describes engaging in conversations with Namrud, discussing various topics ranging from the practicalities of their journey to the broader socio-political landscape of the region.
One of the pivotal discussions revolves around the military presence and the need for a guide through the desert. Gablan, who offers his services, reflects on the potential conflicts with the military, demonstrating the ever-present tension between local tribes and the Ottoman authorities. Bell’s decision to avoid military posts and travel discreetly through the desert highlights the complexities of navigating this politically charged environment.
Bell observes the transaction of corn trade between Namrud and the Sherarat tribe, drawing a vivid picture of the bargaining and exchange that are integral to the local economy. This scene, with its lively dialogue and the chorus of camels, illustrates the hustle and bustle of daily life, even in the remotest of settings.
But for my incongruous presence and the lapse of a few thousand years, they might have been the sons of Jacob come down into Egypt to bicker over the weight of the sacks with their brother Joseph. The corn was kept in a deep dry hole cut in the rock, and was drawn out like so much water in golden bucketsful.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Bell’s narrative during these rainy days offers a glimpse into the mundane yet significant aspects of life in the Jordanian desert, revealing the resilience and adaptability of its inhabitants in the face of natural and political challenges.
Bedouin Conflict Resolution
Bell delves into the cultural practices surrounding conflict resolution and the role of women in Arab society. Namrud explains the ceremonial ending of blood feuds, which involves symbolic actions within a tent and the invocation of God. This custom underscores the deep-rooted honor system and the importance of reconciliation in tribal relations.
when they wish to bring a blood feud to an end, the two enemies come together in the tent of him who was offended. And the lord of the tent bares his sword and turns to the south and draws a circle on the floor, calling upon God. Then he takes a shred of the cloth of the tent and a handful of ashes from the hearth and throws them in the circle, and seven times he strikes the line with his naked sword. And the offender leaps into the circle, and one of the relatives of his enemy cries aloud : ‘ I take the murder that he did upon me ! ’ Then there is peace.
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Matrimonial Choices
The influence of women in tribal matters, as described by Namrud, is particularly striking. The power of a maiden’s choice in marriage, overriding even the constraints of a man’s existing marital status, reflects a unique aspect of female agency within the tribal structure.
Oh lady the women have much power in the tribe, and the maidens are well looked on. For if a maiden says : ‘ I would have such an one for my husband,’ he must marry her lest she should be put to shame. And if he has already four wives let him divorce one, and marry in her place the maiden who has chosen him. Such is the custom among the Arabs.”
Gertrude Bell: The desert and the Sown 1907
Through her experiences, Bell crafts a vivid portrayal of a society where the threads of survival, honor, and tradition are intricately woven together, forming a complex fabric of human connections. Her travels through Jordan, enriched with historical discoveries, cultural interactions, and introspective musings, are elaborately detailed in Gertrude Bell’s literary works. These accounts provide a distinctive lens on the Middle Eastern landscape of the early 20th century, showcasing her unique contributions to our understanding of the region’s cultural and social dynamics.
FAQs:
Q: What historical structures did Gertrude Bell encounter in Jordan?
A: Bell encountered the Saracenic Kala’ah, a fort, and other ruins including a mosque.
Q: How did Bell describe the impact of modernization in Jordan?
A: She described ambivalence towards modernization, especially in relation to the railway.
Q: What local superstitions did Bell explore in her journey?
A: Bell explored superstitions about Jinneh and haunted places avoided by Arabs.
Q: What does Bell’s narrative reveal about Arab hospitality?
A: It reveals a deep-seated culture of hospitality and respect in tribal interactions.
Q: How are tribal politics depicted in Bell’s journey?
A: Tribal politics are shown to be complex, with blood feuds influencing social dynamics.
Q: What insights does Bell provide into daily life in the desert?
A: She provides insights into communal activities, like corn trade, during rainy days.
Q: What cultural practices did Bell learn about from Namrud?
A: Bell learned about Arab customs related to conflict resolution and the influence of women.
Q: How significant is economic trade in tribal relations, according to Bell?
A: Economic trade, like corn transactions, is crucial in maintaining tribal relations and survival.