In the early 20th century, Harry St. John Philby, a British explorer and writer, embarked on a journey that would take him deep into the heart of Saudi Arabia, exploring its vast landscapes, rich cultures, and complex social structures. His experiences and observations were documented in his book, “Heart of Arabia,” providing a detailed account of his time spent in the Hasa region. Philby’s narrative offers an insightful glimpse into the agricultural prosperity of areas like Jafar, the historical significance of places such as Mardhiyya and Abu Laila, and the intricate irrigation systems that supported life in this arid land. Through Philby’s eyes, readers are introduced to the pivotal figures of the time, including ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi, the Amir of Hasa, whose governance and judicial practices played a crucial role in the region’s stability. Philby’s journey not only uncovers the geographical beauty of Saudi Arabia but also highlights the enduring spirit of its people and the legacy of tribes that have shaped its history.
- Harry St. John Philby’s “Heart of Arabia” offers an in-depth look at Saudi Arabia’s Hasa region in the early 20th century.
- The Hasa region is characterized by its agricultural abundance, supported by sophisticated irrigation systems.
- Hufuf, as the capital of Hasa, plays a central role in the region’s social and economic life.
- The transition from Ottoman to Wahhabi rule marked a significant shift towards stability and order.
- ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi’s leadership is crucial for maintaining justice and governance in Hasa.
- The Suq al Khamis market is a hub for trade and social interaction, reflecting the region’s vibrant community life.
- Philby’s journey underscores the resilience and ingenuity of the people living in Saudi Arabia’s heartland.
Description of Hasa’s Landscape
The Hasa region, as depicted by Philby, stands out as a verdant oasis amidst the arid expanses of Saudi Arabia, a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of its inhabitants. The gardens beyond Jafar are particularly noteworthy, described as “the finest gardens of all the Hasa,” where “magnificent, well-kept groves with orange and lemon trees of sombrest green set out in regular rows amid the colonnades of great palm-stems” paint a picture of agricultural abundance. This lush landscape not only provided sustenance but also a sense of pride and joy to the local populace.
Irrigation and Agriculture
Central to the prosperity of Hasa’s gardens was an advanced irrigation system, underpinned by the streams of Barabar, Sulaisil, and Wajjaj. These “parent stems of the irrigation system” were the lifelines that sustained the oasis, enabling the cultivation of dense groves and rich harvests. Philby’s admiration for this system is evident when he notes the strategic placement of these water sources, ensuring that “through these groves flows the main stream of Barabar,” highlighting the symbiotic relationship between the land and its people. The meticulous planning and maintenance of these irrigation channels reflect a deep understanding of the environment, showcasing the region’s agricultural expertise and its inhabitants’ connection to their land.
Spatial Dynamics of the Oasis
Philby’s exploration reveals the vastness of the oasis, stretching approximately four miles east to west and potentially twice that from north to south. This expanse, enveloped by the stark contrast of the surrounding desert, forms a green belt that is both a geographical marvel and a testament to human adaptation. Philby notes, “around it lies the desert,” a reminder of the oasis’s role as a sanctuary amidst the arid landscape. The strategic positioning of this fertile land, with its abrupt rise from the desert to a low bare plateau, underscores the natural and human-crafted geography that defines Hasa.
Villages and Population
Within this verdant expanse, Philby introduces us to Fudhul and Munaizila, villages that embody the oasis’s vibrancy and the communal life of its inhabitants. Fudhul, with its “much-worked limestone quarry,” and Munaizila, described from a distance, represent the diversity of activities and the demographic spread across the oasis. The population, estimated at about 15,000 souls within the eastern oasis alone, highlights the bustling human element that thrives in this lush environment. Philby’s observation that “a considerable proportion of its gardens belong to merchants and others resident at Hufuf” sheds light on the interconnectedness of agriculture, commerce, and daily life in the region.
The Eastern and Western Oases
The distinction between the eastern and western oases, as outlined by Philby, underscores the varied landscape and the adaptive strategies of its inhabitants. With a difference in level of more than a hundred feet and a two-mile stretch across the intervening plateau, these oases form the core of Hasa’s agricultural and social structure. This geographical diversity, coupled with the intricate irrigation systems, exemplifies the region’s capacity to sustain and nurture life in the face of environmental challenges. Philby’s detailed account of the landscape not only provides a physical map of the region but also a narrative of human endurance and environmental stewardship.
Hufuf: The Capital of Hasa
Hufuf emerges in Philby’s narrative as not just the administrative heart of Hasa but as a beacon of urban organisation and governance amidst the desert. Described as “by far the biggest town in the dominions of Ibn Sa’ud,” Hufuf’s layout is meticulously detailed, from its roughly oblong shape to the division into distinct quarters such as the Kut, Rifa’, and Na’athil, each serving a unique purpose within the urban fabric. The presence of a wall of “unequal height, built of locally quarried limestone blocks” encapsulates the city’s historical layers and its strategic importance. The city’s division, with each quarter reflecting a different aspect of Hufuf’s social and economic life, illustrates a complex urban ecosystem.
The mention of “the great mosque and fort which recall the name of a former Egyptian viceroy” within the Kut highlights Hufuf’s historical significance and the layers of governance that have shaped its development. Philby’s account, rich in geographical and architectural detail, paints a vivid picture of Hufuf as a dynamic centre of power, culture, and commerce.
Transition from Ottoman to Wahhabi Rule
Philby’s observations on Hufuf’s transition from Ottoman to Wahhabi rule shed light on a significant chapter in the city’s history, highlighting a transformative period marked by upheaval and eventual stability. The shift in governance is depicted as a turning point, where “the peace and security which now prevail” starkly contrast with the “anarchy which reigned supreme in the days of Turkish rule.” This comparison not only illustrates the tumultuous nature of Ottoman governance but also foregrounds the stabilising influence of Wahhabi leadership.
The end of Ottoman dominion and the advent of Wahhabi control are encapsulated in the strategic and almost bloodless capture of Hufuf. Philby recounts how “on a certain night in the spring of 1914, their drowsy sentries were woken from their sleep in circumstances which made resistance hopeless,” leading to a swift Wahhabi takeover. This episode is pivotal, showcasing the strategic acumen of the Wahhabi forces and the Ottoman garrison’s vulnerability. The subsequent actions of Ibn Sa’ud, who “opened the gates of the town and the Kut… and his handling of the situation was characteristic,” reveal a leader adept at both warfare and governance.
Philby further notes the aftermath of the takeover, detailing how “the Turkish garrison marched out unmolested but under escort to the coast, where they took ship for Bahrain; the garrisons of Qatif and ‘Uqair surrendered without resistance and were similarly treated.” This narrative not only underscores the effectiveness of the Wahhabi strategy but also highlights a moment of significant political and social change within Hufuf and the broader Hasa region. The peaceful transition and the humane treatment of the Turkish garrisons reflect a deliberate approach to establishing new governance, prioritising stability and order over retribution.
Through Philby’s account, the transition from Ottoman to Wahhabi rule emerges as a watershed moment for Hufuf, redefining its political landscape and setting the stage for a period of unprecedented peace and security. This narrative captures the essence of a city at a crossroads, navigating the complexities of change while laying the foundations for future growth and prosperity.
Governance and Judicial Practices under ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi
In the tapestry of Hasa’s governance, ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi stands as a figure of paramount importance, embodying the principles of leadership and justice that have come to define the region under Wahhabi rule. Philby paints a portrait of ‘Abdullah as a leader of “neither stout nor lean” stature, with a “short but full black beard” and a demeanour that commands respect. His cautious and formal discourse, coupled with a reputation for being “dull of wit,” belies a deep-seated wisdom and an unwavering commitment to the welfare of his people. ‘Abdullah is celebrated as “second indeed in Wahhabiland to his master alone,” a testament to his stature and the trust placed in him by Ibn Sa’ud.
Philby recounts the historical backdrop against which ‘Abdullah’s leadership emerged, tracing his unwavering loyalty back to a “fateful day in 1900,” when he stood alongside his young cousin in a daring venture that would eventually restore the Sa’ud dynasty to power in Riyadh. This alliance marked the beginning of ‘Abdullah’s ascent to a position of influence and authority, serving as a “right-hand man and ever trusty counsellor” through periods of conflict and consolidation. His appointment as Amir of the Qasim, following its reconquest, underscores his strategic importance and the pivotal role he played in stabilising and governing the newly reclaimed territories.
Philby’s narrative delves into ‘Abdullah’s tenure in Hasa, portraying a leader who, despite a personal longing for the “peace and quiet of home-life,” finds himself bound to a life of service and governance. This dichotomy between personal desire and duty underscores the sacrifices inherent in leadership, painting ‘Abdullah as a figure of noble restraint and dedication. His governance is marked by an “implicit confidence” from Ibn Sa’ud, a relationship that has been instrumental in the peaceful and orderly administration of Hasa.
Noteworthy Judicial Decisions
The judicial practices under ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi’s governance highlight his commitment to justice and equity, characteristics that have endeared him to the people of Hasa. Philby provides vivid accounts of ‘Abdullah’s courtroom, where the Amir’s judgments reflect a deep understanding of human nature and a commitment to the fair resolution of disputes. One notable incident involves a complaint against ‘Abdullah’s own son, where the Amir’s impartiality is tested. The complainant accuses the young man of assault, a charge that ‘Abdullah addresses with a remarkable blend of authority and fairness. His response, “Send for my son, Fahad,” encapsulates his commitment to justice, irrespective of personal connections.
In another instance, ‘Abdullah adjudicates a dispute involving property damage by a camel, showcasing his innovative approach to conflict resolution. The solution, to “butcher the camel” and inspect its contents to determine the truth, is a testament to ‘Abdullah’s pragmatic and results-oriented judicial philosophy. These anecdotes not only illuminate the judicial landscape of Hasa under ‘Abdullah’s stewardship but also reflect the broader principles of justice and accountability that underpin Wahhabi governance.
Philby’s portrayal of ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi offers a window into the complexities of leadership and governance in early 20th-century Hasa, highlighting the delicate balance between authority, justice, and the personal sacrifices that leadership entails.
Social and Economic Life in Hufuf
Hufuf, as depicted by Philby, is not just a geographical entity but a vibrant social and economic hub that reflects the complexities and dynamism of Saudi Arabian society in the early 20th century. The city’s layout, with its distinctive quarters such as the Kut, the Rifa’, and the Na’athil, alongside the extra-mural suburb of Sahhiyya, illustrates a community that is both diverse and interconnected. The presence of a wall, “built of locally quarried limestone blocks,” serves not only as a physical boundary but also as a symbol of the city’s rich history and cultural heritage.
The Kut, in particular, stands out as a bastion of governance and military strategy, housing the Sarai, the Amir’s residence, and other key administrative buildings. This quarter, “complete in itself and fully provided against the emergency of a siege,” reflects the city’s historical strategic importance and the layered nature of its urban and social structures. Philby’s observation that the Kut was “a bulwark to the town against foreign invasion and a refuge for the garrison in the event of a popular rising” highlights the multifaceted role of Hufuf’s urban design in its defense and administration.
Market Dynamics at Suq al Khamis
The Suq al Khamis (Thursday Market), Hufuf’s marketplace, comes alive in Philby’s narrative as a central axis of the city’s economic life, on Thursdays when it transforms into a bustling hub of trade and social interaction. This weekly market, with its “little booths of reed matting,” is not just a place for commerce but a social venue where “buyers and sellers come in their thousands.” The vibrant trade in “dates and garden produce of all kinds and meat” underscores the agricultural abundance of the surrounding oasis and its pivotal role in the city’s economy.
Philby’s account of the market, where “all is done by bargaining” and “no sheep or goat is bought but is first kneaded by expert hands,” paints a vivid picture of the traditional practices and the intimate connection between the people and their land. This lively exchange not only facilitates the flow of goods but also fosters a sense of community and shared identity among the city’s inhabitants.
The social and economic life in Hufuf, as detailed by Philby, provides a glimpse into the city’s soul, revealing a community that thrives on its agricultural wealth, strategic significance, and the enduring bonds of its people. The vibrant marketplaces, strategic urban quarters, and the intricate social fabric of Hufuf collectively narrate the story of a city that is as dynamic as it is rooted in tradition.
Harry St. John Philby’s journey through the heart of Saudi Arabia, as chronicled in “Heart of Arabia,” offers an invaluable glimpse into the rich tapestry of Hasa’s geography, culture, governance, and social life in the early 20th century. From the agricultural abundance of Jafar to the bustling markets of Hufuf, and the judicious governance of ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi, Philby’s narrative is a testament to the resilience, ingenuity, and spirit of the Saudi Arabian people.
FAQ
Q: What is “Heart of Arabia” about?
A: It’s a book by Harry St. John Philby documenting his explorations in Saudi Arabia’s Hasa region.
Q: Who was ‘Abdullah ibn Jiluwi?
A: He was the Amir of Hasa, known for his fair governance and judicial practices.
Q: What made Hufuf significant in the Hasa region?
A: Hufuf was the capital, known for its strategic importance and vibrant market life.
Q: How did the Hasa region sustain its agricultural activities?
A: Through advanced irrigation systems like the streams of Barabar, Sulaisil, and Wajjaj.
Q: What was the impact of the transition from Ottoman to Wahhabi rule?
A: It brought stability and order to the region, ending the anarchy of the previous rule.
Q: What role does the Suq al Khamis market play in Hufuf’s community?
A: It serves as a central marketplace for trade and social gatherings, reflecting the city’s economic and social vibrancy.